This bulletin board, hosted by the CDSOA, Inc., is the on-line meeting place for all Cape Dory owners and groups. We welcome everyone's questions, answers and comments about Cape Dory sailboat
First off - I am still trying to find someone willing to work on my Ty in the bay area without charging an unbelievable amount of money...so please...if you know of any good person, let me know...!
Second... I am having a hard time understanding the cockpit drains... there are 2 valves below the waterline...I mean... when am I supposed to keep them closed?!?!
G
Not when the Ty is in the water. When it rains the cockpit will fill.
Do the valves look like outside facets? And do you exersize and lub them?
The only time I close them is when I have replaced the hose from the scupper to the 'valve' when in the water.
Pete
There are several threads on this board that discuss cockpit drains, valves (or faucet knobs). I believe the consensus is that the cockpit drain valves should always be left open unless you are changing hoses or there is a leak in a hose, etc. as stated by Pete F.
One of the threads discusses removing the cockpit drain valves completely and just having the hose routed from the thru hull to the cockpit scupper. There are mixed thoughts about this. However, I believe all are in agreement that if you have cockpit drain valves that they should always be left open.
Fair winds,
Roberto
a/k/a Sea Hunt "The Tadpole Sailor"
CDSOA #1097
________________________________
"I wish to have no Connection with any Ship that does not Sail fast for I intend to go in harm's way." Captain John Paul Jones, 16 November 1778, as quoted in Naval History and Heritage Command, http://www.history.navy.mil
You might want to close them if you were to have four large adults in the cockpit. In such a case the sole will be submerged below the waterline and it will flood. It will not inspire confidence in your guests to see the boat sinking to the point that the water begins rising up around their feet.
Just remember to open them back up when the folks disembark, Steve.
I agree with the above information. Leave them open unless you have a bunch of people aboard on a fine day to stop water coming in the cockpit.
Now, if they are original and look rusty or corroded or fragile, I would replace them with seacocks or ball valves. This is cheap insurance and not too complicated a job. Below I pasted the message that includes the parts I used to replace the old gate valves on our former typhoon. Note that the part numbers may have changed since '98.
This is from a 1998 response to a posted request when I needed to replace my Typhoon HORNET's gate valves.
Try this:
All sizes are ¾”
West Marine Part # Part
402570 bronze thru-hull
106783 45 degree bronze “ell”, Female to Male
195420 “Apollo” brand bronze ball valve
113003 Grocco full flow tailpiece (uses 1” ID hose)
282285 1” ID hose (buy a 3’ section)
115655 8 ea. #316 Stainless hose clamps (don’t use the cheap
price ones – they rust too quick; and double clamp hoses at both ends)
Put in in parts order (ell between thru-hull and ball valve) with teflon plumber’s tape. I used 3M5200 on the thru-hull to hull joint. Total cost three years ago was about $120, and the scuppers will drain long leaf pine needles right through. Took about two easy hours once I figured out the parts (which took days to do). You might want to put all the bronze together before tightening the thru-hull coller so you can make sure the ball valve levers can clear everything and test for full-open to full-close lever swing. Good luck.
I have shared it with many people doing the same job. I used 4200 instead of 5200 though which I think would be better to the next owner and thus buy you some boatwork karma. HORNET is now owned by my friend and the installation has served very well. I would consider the seacock in case you accidentally slice a hose. At the very least, I would have stout wooden plugs handy in case something came adrift at the wrong time.
Ooooooooo GUYS YOU ARE AMAZING!!!!!!!!
I was about to post a video and I found pretty much all the answers I was looking for...this forum is just great!!!!
This is where I am now... trying to figure out how to disassemble the old ones...!
Don't know if you've completed keyed the job of changing out the Typhoon cockpit drain valves & thru-hills yet or not, but I'd be happy to talk you through the entire process if you're still at it...
There are several ways to tackle the job and a variety of tools that you can employ to assist you in that undertaking, whether or not you have to replace Everything below the cockpit drain itself will depend upon whether or not you can loosen & remove the old bronze valves without having to cut through the thru-hull nipples that the valves thread onto,..
Contact me directly if you need any help or advice - I've replaced these on numerous Typhoons...
