Engine Flushing with Muriatic Acid

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ckreitlein
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Location: CD 30 Cutter "Miss Marley" Pensacola, FL

Engine Flushing with Muriatic Acid

Post by ckreitlein »

I have searched the archives and read the results, but still would like to ask if anyone has successfully flushed their engine with muriatic acid. I have a salt-water cooled MD7A. I took off the water jacket and had that "boiled out" by a radiator shop, but would like to flush the rest of the engine with muriatic acid. I have a water inlet valve on my saltwater strainer to connect a garden hose. A friend suggested a couple buckets of 50/50 mix of acid/fresh water. Start the engine, suck it in and let it sit for an hour. Then start up the engine and pump it out. Is this recommended? Is there any possible damage to rubber seals and valves? Any further advice on this procedure? Thanks.
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tartansailor
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Acid cleaning

Post by tartansailor »

Oxalic would serve you much better because it dissolves rust just as effectively as hydrochloric and does not attack cast iron. Additionally any residual oxalic will decompose to CO2 and water, while hydrochloric will remain.
For cost effectiveness, you would probably need to make a temporary closed loop to get up to holding temperature.

Dick
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Post by Maine Sail »

I use Rydlyme quite often. it works very, very well. I have an inexpensive plastic body pump that holds up to acids well and I circulate the Rydlyme thought the engine from, and back to, a 5 gallon bucket with the t-stat removed until done.
-Maine Sail
CS-36T
Broad Cove, Maine

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JD-MDR
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Re: Engine Flushing with Muriatic Acid

Post by JD-MDR »

I want to flush my system with rydlime for a few hours. Can any inform me if I should take out the thermastat. I think I will put a a hose in a bucket and thru a pump to the v-drive inlet then the hose coming out of the thermastat back into the bucket. It seems like that would cover everything but the mixer elbow. also do I need to take out the water pump impellar? Please respond. Thanks. Its Volvo MD7A
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JD-MDR
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Joined: Feb 8th, '17, 14:23
Location: s/v "Leoma" 1977 CD 30K #46 San Francisco CA

Re: Engine Flushing with Muriatic Acid

Post by JD-MDR »

OK I took out the thermostat, It fell apart, and I took out the water pump impeller. I flushed it with rydlime for two hours and then fresh water. So Now I'm reading that I should flush it backwards as well. Sounds like a good Idea. I have to wait for the thermostat anyway. Is it OK to go without the thermostat for a while. I also have an oil leak from the sending switch, These little parts are expensive. $100 for the thermostat and 70 for the switch
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mgphl52
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Re: Engine Flushing with Muriatic Acid

Post by mgphl52 »

JD-MDR wrote:OK I took out the thermostat, It fell apart, and I took out the water pump impeller. I flushed it with rydlime for two hours and then fresh water. So Now I'm reading that I should flush it backwards as well. Sounds like a good Idea. I have to wait for the thermostat anyway. Is it OK to go without the thermostat for a while. I also have an oil leak from the sending switch, These little parts are expensive. $100 for the thermostat and 70 for the switch
Running w/o thermostat depends on the climate. No problem in warmer areas.
As for prices, I do a LOT of searching on the net.
Check these folks https://www.asap-supplies.com/
even with shipping from the Europe, they have very good prices.
-michael & Toni CDSOA #789
s/v KAYLA CD28 #318
2012 FLSTC Heritage Classic
Niceville FL
+30° 30' 24.60", -86° 26' 32.10"
"Just because it worked, doesn't mean it works." -me
No shirt + No shorts = No problem!
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