Mercury outboard issue

[Chrisa006]

I went out sailing today which entails a 30 minute push with my outboard. On the return trip about 3/4s of the way in it started loosing power and acted like it was running out of fuel. As I always run it dry I knew I had a little time. Didn't make it. So here is my question, when I pumped the primer bulb before I went out it never got hard. Do I have a failing check valve in the bulb or line? The motor was gone over by a dealer 3 weeks ago and I have been out 4 times with no problem. It is a 2005 6hp Mercury.

Thanks,
Chris

[Joe CD MS 300]

How old is the fuel hose? Air getting into the line? Does it also have an internal tank? Try the internal to see if it eliminates the problem.

[Chrisa006]

It doesn't have an internal tank. I just bought the boat so not sure of the hoses age but it looks "mature".

[Mbigos]

Not sue how handy you are, but here is my checklist for this sort of thing having owned several
2 and 4-stroke motors. I think of these as basic skills needed if you are more than 1/4 mile from shore.
Fuel: less than 6 months old, and add fuel stabilizer (I've used Honda brand and starTron), filtration (replace internal filter every 1-2 years and I've come to believe in fuel water separators even for dinghies if your fuel tank is outside for more than 2 weeks at a time. See for example $90 https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/u ... aQodz_wJPA .
And the internal fuel pump diaphragm usually needs cleaning and wiping every 1-3 years. I've replaced these after they are 10+ years old.
And yes, just replace the fuel hose and primer bulb if there is any doubt . You get this off the shelf. They should last 10+ Years. You can also buy the components a la carte.
Fire: take out the plug or plugs, check gap to owners manual spec, and make sure they are not carboned up. If so get new ones, do not clean them. It's not worth it. Anything more serious like magneto or coils,cdi etc, bring to your mechanic unless you want to teach yourself and spend 20+ hours.
Compression: probably not a problem, but this can be checked, and piston rings can be replaced, etc, but I doubt that will be your problem. Make sure lubrication is proper: oil level for 4 stroke, mixing for 2 stroke, or functioning oil injection.
Cooling: make sure water is pumping out. If you have a thermostat, sometimes those can stay closed during warmups or cvery cold water for awhile. I replace water pumps every 3 year in salt, and 5 years in fresh. Grease the driveshaft when replacing pump to avoid it rusting into the powerhead. You can YouTube tutorials on that.
Now that have gotten carried away, I might as well mention lower unit lube, and gearsing propeller at the end of each season. You can also YouTube that. I think that's my whole checklist list for annual outboard maintenance! I've never had one stop working, sold many better than when I found them, and tended to own each of them for a long time.
Good luck.

[Jim Davis]

On my Tohatsu 4 stroke I also disconnect the fuel hose with the engine running and let it run dry if it will be more than a couple days before it is going to be used again.

[Chrisa006]

Well the good news is I have done or do everything Jim and Mbigos mentioned, other then replace the fuel hose. Today that will get done.

Thanks

[Sea Hunt Video]

Chris:

The other issue to be concerned about is the fuel. Make sure you are using ONLY non-ethanol fuel. I had similar problems with a Suzuki 6 hp. As soon as I started using only non-ethanol fuel the problems disappeared. The ethanol eats away at the fuel lines and gums up the carb., plugs, EVERYTHING. The big engines can deal with the ethanol. The small ones cannot. And now our wonderful politicians want to increase the ethanol from E15 to E20 and higher.

[hinmo]

Ditto
gave up on a 2.5 Suz 4strk (new to me in 2010), needed to change the carb every year due to eth.
Had a tohatsu 6hp 4s....2005 vintage...same mess

Try the eth free fuel after a thorough carb cleaning

Dont forget to loosen the air vent on the ext gas tank