Life Line Gate between last Stanchion and Pushpit

[Pembquist]

Time to refresh the life lines. Currently I have a gate on the starboard side between the first two stanchions. I am ALWAYS stepping over the life line between the pushpit and the first stanchion. Is there some reason not to put the gate or a second gate to port that would open the life line in the back? All I can think of is that the open gate would dangle quite a bit.
CD 28 by the way.

[Jim Walsh]

If you are having new lifelines made up just decide where you want the openings and the appropriate lifeline fittings will be placed where you decide. I rarely use anything but my starboard boarding gate but I did want my port side aft lifelines to have the capability to be opened easily. I have a stainless split collar on my upper and lower lifelines placed where they thread through the stanchion. They act as stops to prevent my entire port side lifelines going slack if I open the over center snap hooks attached to the bails on my stern rail.
I personally prefer 1x19 un-coated stainless wire. Never have to worry about what's going on under that white plastic coating again.

[gates_cliff]

Somewhat off track but related.

First I feel like I ought to replace the lifelines, since they are probably original. And, I'd opt for un-coated as well. Now, the big question is that most of the stanchions seem to be loose, last year I went and got SS screws, since a few of the stanchions were coming out of the base entirely. Rather than replace them all I was thinking about just taking them all off and taking them to a machine shop and have them threaded to take an appropriate machine screw with a lock washer. But then, I also dream of sailing offshore some day so maybe I ought to just replace them so I could have double life lines. (Unfortunately, my window of opportunity is getting smaller with advancing age and all.)

Thoughts/recommendations?

[Jim Walsh]

Somewhat off track but related.

First I feel like I ought to replace the lifelines, since they are probably original. And, I'd opt for un-coated as well. Now, the big question is that most of the stanchions seem to be loose, last year I went and got SS screws, since a few of the stanchions were coming out of the base entirely. Rather than replace them all I was thinking about just taking them all off and taking them to a machine shop and have them threaded to take an appropriate machine screw with a lock washer. But then, I also dream of sailing offshore some day so maybe I ought to just replace them so I could have double life lines. (Unfortunately, my window of opportunity is getting smaller with advancing age and all.)

Thoughts/recommendations?

When you say "take them off" are you referring to the stanchion bases? That would not be fun. I have seen the frustration when the set screws will not hold due to the threads being shot. My bases have both a set screw and a threaded hole for a machine screw. I'm positive the bases were not subsequently modified. I think it was a "belt and braces" solution to a common problem.
I have seen where people have just drilled a hole directly through the base and stanchion and run a bolt through them. The problem is that you might still have a slight wiggle factor. The set screw is intended to ensure the stanchions are wiggle free.
Here's a picture of one of my bases to illustrate. Please ignore the bits of rust and lots of salt. We may have some rain in a couple days and I can finally get some shine back on Orion after an 800 mile passage.

[gates_cliff]

Thanks for the reply and photo. No, I was just referring to taking the stanchion out, but now I guess I'd have to have the based taped as well in order for a machine screw to work with both the base and stanchion.

Can you tell me what kind of screw you have in the base/stanchion?

Thanks

[Sea Hunt Video]

. . . now I guess I'd have to have the based taped as well in order for a machine screw to work with both the base and stanchion.

Can you tell me what kind of screw you have in the base/stanchion?

Thanks

Cliff, Jim and all:

Could you remove the "threading" from the base and only thread/tap the stanchion Once the stanchion is threaded for the size screw you want to use (I assume it will be slightly larger than the current screw) you could then "drill out" the hole in the base so the screw would slide in and catch the threads on the stanchion.

This procedure would necessitate making sure the "unthreaded hole" in the base can line up properly with the "threaded hole" in the stanchion.

As should be obvious to all, this idea is brought to you by a guy who knows LESS THAN NOTHING about all of this and is just "spit balling" as some might say.

[gates_cliff]

Hmmm Roberto, that's something to consider, I'll have to take a closer look this weekend.

[tjr818]

Brilliant Roberto I like that idea, that should keep the stanchion from rattling around too

[mgphl52]

Not rain on the parade... but, you won't have very many 'threads' to anchor the screw with given the thickness of the stanchion tube.

[Sea Hunt Video]

Mike:

That is a good point.

To minimize the "anchoring" issue perhaps Cliff and others could buy bolts/screws that are fully threaded from the head to the point of the bolt with the shank/shaft being "almost" as long as the stanchion is in diameter; not touching but coming close to the inside of the other side of the stanchion.

Adding something like Loctite Threadlocker would further reduce the chance of the bolt/screw "backing out".

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/10/15/ ... ed-271.htm

Just a thought. Like I said I know less than nothing about this. Just "spit balling" on a rainy lousy South Florida day. I wish I was in Bermuda sipping Guinness and watching the pretty European girls (and possibly the America's Cup also )

[Jim Walsh]

Thanks for the reply and photo. No, I was just referring to taking the stanchion out, but now I guess I'd have to have the based taped as well in order for a machine screw to work with both the base and stanchion.

Can you tell me what kind of screw you have in the base/stanchion?

Thanks

It's a round head slotted machine screw. Pretty sure it's size is #12X24.

[Terry]

The stanchions on Cassandra are loose and will need attention soon. So, this thread, questions and potential solutions, is very interesting.

A couple things I've wondered about: 1) why are the stanchions and bases two pieces? 2) what about welding the stanchions to the bases?

I appreciate your thoughts. Thanks.

Terry

[tjr818]

Terry. If or when a stanchion gets bent. A seperate stanchion is easy to replace.

[Jim Cornwell]

Yankee's old, vinyl coated (and rust stained) lifelines got replaced a few years ago with uncoated stainless wire and fittings. On a safety kick at the time, I had just assembled a dedicated, multi-part tackle to shackle to a halyard to hoist an MOB victim aboard. It occurred to me to provide extra pelican hooks in both upper and lower wires opposite the mast, port and starboard, so the lifelines could be eased out of the way to simplify the hoist. So far, thankfully, no need - but we practice from time to time.

On the subject of pelican hooks, I've still got the originals, in fine condition. Merriman, I think. Free to a good home!

[Terry]

Terry. If or when a stanchion gets bent. A seperate stanchion is easy to replace.

Thanks Tim. Certainly makes sense. I suppose, likewise, it's a lot easier to manufacture parts rather than a whole stanchion plus base, given the different configurations.