CD 27 Companionway Leak

[fmueller]

When it rains I get a slow drip from behind my interior companionway frame.

In the last picture (can't figure out how to orient the file correctly) looking starboard to port right underneath the interior companionway frame/face you can see the cabin liner is discolored where water enters at the lip of the liner where it butts up against the frame. It drips from there onto my top step/engine cover, and often makes its way over the sides of that top step and drips right onto my little Yanmar YSB8 thumper. Arrrgh !

It really has to rain steadily and it's not a lot of water (yet). In fact it is the only leak I know about in my boat - so can't complain too much ... I am defending the motor with WD40 and Boeshield

Has anyone else had this problem? A cursory look at the companionway exterior, especially up top by the sliding hatch shows reasonably good sealing from years ago ... maybe I just have to reapply.

Hoping for "been there, done that!" from one of you ... thanks !

[Maine_Buzzard]

Jim has detailed his progress on this problem.

http://www.capedory.org/board/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=34709

I'm in a similar state, my project to replace the companionway teak with iroko is about 2/3 the way done. Fitting the grooved sliders tomorrow and then infilling the side pieces.

To remove the plugs, drill the suckers with a 13/64" bit 'til you touch the bronze screws. Insert a 1/4" bolt and wrench it down into the bung, until it starts pulling the bung out.
If possible, taper the bolt a bit on a grinding wheel to make starting easier. The bung will pop out.

Remove the teak trim, and skim on a thin layer of G-Flex to seal the backside of it, then scuff sand and re-install with Sikaflex 291 in Mahogany color. (better than white) A nice FUller countersink set has plug cutters for the new plugs, or you can order from most suppliers.

The handgrabs have a large screw through them into the cabintop glass and liner. They are also glued to the vertical boards, and inseparable. Pull the plugs, then the slider grovved boards, and remove as an assembly. Other boards may also be glued, work with care.

Sample of the cabintop/liner assembly with companionway boards removed.


I have been doubledipping, and the electrical/cabin aft panel replacement is more interesting. New circuit breaker panel arrived from Frontpanelexpress.com, will document next week.

[Frenchy]

Maybe the rain, driven by the wind, is blown up the angled threshold, under the lowest companionway board and into the boat.
I had this problem on a previous boat and fixed it by epoxying a 3/8" high piece of teak on top of the threshold directly behind
the lowest companionway board and tight against the sides.
You could test to see if this might be the problem by sticking some weatherstriping behind the companionway board,
tight against the side rails. Good luck - Jean

[fmueller]

Thanks Frenchy, but I don't think so ...

I actually think it might be "capillary action" along the cockpit side seams (including the low side of the companionway threshold) where the teak of the companionway lays up against the fiberglass opening. I'm going to carefully re-seal this with butyl caulk ( a very thin bead) and see if the incursion stops.

I took the seahood apart today and started re-sealing the whole companionway/hatch/seahood structure. Just the perimeter ....

The structure of this area of our boats is impressively solid and I think well done ...

cheers

Fred

[fmueller]

Guppy ...

thanks for the reference to Jim's project ... good luck with yours .... hoping to avoid doing this for a season or two ... will try a bandaid fix first ... I WOULD like to be sailing this summer

cheers

Fred

[gates_cliff]

I just mentioned this in another post but thought I'd share here also.

I had the same problem with a leaky main hatch. the original hatch slides had been sanded too many times and the top piece was breaking off. I had tried several times to epoxy it back together but there just wasn't enough surface to get a good bond.

So, anyway last year, I had work done on my deck and cabin and had some new teak boards made. There's a guy that lives on a Tayana 38 (I think) and he is a legitimate shipwright. He's been in the boat business for many years. Anyway, he milled the new pieces for me and the yard installed them. I haven't had a leak around the main hatch since. I had just cleaned out my bilge this past Saturday and here in the DC area we had rain all day Saturday and Sunday. The bilge was still dry on Monday!

[Bob Ohler]

Maine, with your new in cabin start controls, may I assume that you will still able to start the engine from the cockpit? I have often thought of this project, but I may be out of real estate on our CD30B.

I just completed a new Blue Sea 12-circuit 12-volt distribution panel.

I really like your work!

I'll be watching for your circuit breaker panel installation.

[karonoko]

My 27 had a similar leak forward under the sea hood. I removed the head, gave it a much need cleaning, then resealed each screw. I would think resealing the combing would help you.

[fmueller]

Update ... I took off the sea-hood and discovered that the seal (probably original) between the glass hood and the teak rails was no longer water tight; some kind of putty that had degraded and dried out. The teak hood rails (even though they looked good from the exterior) were quite water soaked ... this explains why I was getting run off in the little gullies that run aft between the rails and the companionway boards even though there are weep holes under the rails, some of those under the hood were blocked with crud - and that water which had nowhere to go but aft was, I think, seeping down the boundary of the vertical "slotted" companionway sides and the cabin fiberglass, and then pooling on the cabin liner and finally dripping onto my top companionway tread ... so ...

I cleaned up 35 years of dirt from under the sea hood, scraped off all the old putty and resealed the hood in place with Boat Life "Life Seal". I made sure the weep holes under the rails were open. Also (without going to the extent of removing the companionway teak) I just simply carefully sealed the seams around the teak with a very narrow bead of indoor/outdoor caulk, beveled with my fingers and a wipe rag carefully to keep and water from "wicking" under those boards. The bead is practically invisible, but I think it is effective.

So far cross fingers - after one night of heavy rain - no drip.

yay -

boat goes in the water this week finally ...

Fred

[Jim Walsh]

All the trouble I went through was well worth the effort. I didn't get on drop belowdecks on my trip over with LOTS of wind driven spray and occasional showers. Since I've been here there have been several days of occasional showers and a couple days of tropical downpours as one only finds in places like Bermuda. Not one drop below!!!
Over the last couple years I've also replaced all the gaskets in my opening ports and overhead hatches and I actually removed and rebedded my midship hatch. All the work was worth it.

[fmueller]

I admire your energy Jim ... I just don't have time to dismantle my companionway like you did, this year ... I think what happens is that the seams "wick" moisture in a capillary way - and if the old seal has gone bad you get ingress ...

cheers

Fred