CD 28 Cutting into Cabin Liner

Pembquist · Post by **Pembquist** » Mar 21st, '17, 18:51

Fixing the Boat up. I cut out the part of the cabin liner above the little inspection holes at the hanging locker and head in order to be able to see the "chainplates" better. So far port looks pretty good with very little rust starboard is rusty and I need to wire brush/inspect more. My question is about the flange part of the cabin roof liner. I would like to cut it back both in the hanging locker and a section in the main salon where it covers up the "chainplate." Does this flange add any real strength or stiffess to the deck or cabin roof? If so anybody have any tips on putting it back? Ideally I would just leave it off once cut for easy inspection.

Vincent · Post by **Vincent** » Mar 22nd, '17, 07:16

I am pretty sure the liner is not structural, and is just a huge pain in the butt. I have cut sections out for better access when needed. I hate the liner. If dealing with your chainplate steel backer, I think you need to get whatever access you need, and worry about repairing the cosmetics later. If your stick makes an unplanned drop, you will have more to worry about than the liner. Others may have a more informed opinion.

JD-MDR · Post by **JD-MDR** » Mar 22nd, '17, 09:15

I have been thinking of cutting some of that flange also as I change the backing plates. I'm anxious to hear more comments. I would cut it in a way so as to reglass it back. I'm not sure about my CD but my previous boat a Newport 28, That flange seemed to work kinda like a rain gutter diverting any water coming in from the toe rail joint away and back away from the main cabin area.

hilbert · Post by **hilbert** » Mar 22nd, '17, 12:33

Pembquist wrote:Fixing the Boat up. I cut out the part of the cabin liner above the little inspection holes at the hanging locker and head in order to be able to see the "chainplates" better. So far port looks pretty good with very little rust starboard is rusty and I need to wire brush/inspect more. My question is about the flange part of the cabin roof liner. I would like to cut it back both in the hanging locker and a section in the main salon where it covers up the "chainplate." Does this flange add any real strength or stiffess to the deck or cabin roof? If so anybody have any tips on putting it back? Ideally I would just leave it off once cut for easy inspection.

The flange in the hanging locker and head doesn't contribute stiffness or strength. It is bisected by the bulkheads in these areas and the section is only a couple feet long.
Having said that, I did not find it necessary to cut the flange. I only needed to enlarge the hole in the liner below the flange to remove the backing plate and rebar.

hinmo · Post by **hinmo** » Mar 23rd, '17, 01:52

I'm in the process of re-enforcing my chain plate backings....they're a mess. I have several large holes in the liner. I intend to plug them with wood covers when time permits.

pete faga · Post by **pete faga** » Mar 23rd, '17, 10:40

John
Any chance you can post pictures when completed?
Thanks
Pete

Pembquist · Post by **Pembquist** » Mar 23rd, '17, 23:13

Hilbert,
My steel extends aft of the aft bulkhead where the aft padeye is bolted. I am assuming that there is another rebar hook underneath the cabin liner back there. Is this the case in your boat? That Aft Padeye connection is the one that is hard to get a good look at without cutting. Really I want to cut it all out of the way so I can get a wire wheel on it to see how much steel has rusted away. I think it is ok as the port side is really hardly rusted at all and it has no primer on it. I think it must have been a completely freshwater boat. I was told that the failure is usually first at the weld between the hooks and the steel plate. I'm sure everybody knows already but the best tool is a Fein or other brand oscillating multitool.

What is that square of wood with the 3 screws?

hinmo · Post by **hinmo** » Mar 24th, '17, 09:32

pete faga wrote:John
Any chance you can post pictures when completed?
Thanks
Pete

Pete - finished job won't be for a while. Brand new '74 to me. I probably would not have bought her if I knew the condition of these steel backing plates. I am going to get as many of them re-enforced prior to launching this summer. I did buy some poplar (or something...I forget) from Home Depot to build a plug/plate over the cut(s).

May not have enough time to pretty her up....we'll see.

I will share you pics of my lining cuts soon as I pull the wrap off (2 weeks?)

-J

hilbert · Post by **hilbert** » Mar 24th, '17, 14:46

Pembquist wrote:Hilbert,
My steel extends aft of the aft bulkhead where the aft padeye is bolted. I am assuming that there is another rebar hook underneath the cabin liner back there. Is this the case in your boat? That Aft Padeye connection is the one that is hard to get a good look at without cutting. Really I want to cut it all out of the way so I can get a wire wheel on it to see how much steel has rusted away. I think it is ok as the port side is really hardly rusted at all and it has no primer on it. I think it must have been a completely freshwater boat. I was told that the failure is usually first at the weld between the hooks and the steel plate. I'm sure everybody knows already but the best tool is a Fein or other brand oscillating multitool.

Yes, it was necessary to cut the liner aft of the aft bulkhead also for access to all the backing plate and rebar. I don't think that there were inexpensive oscillating tools when I started to work on the boat. I kicked up a lot of dust with an angle grinder, before I got religion.

What is that square of wood with the 3 screws?

That was a backing plate that had been used to secure a vented loop for the head.

hilbert · Post by **hilbert** » Mar 26th, '17, 09:08

Here's a picture of the cut that I made in the liner, aft of the main bulkhead.

JD-MDR · Post by **JD-MDR** » Apr 15th, '17, 21:34

The yard manager is suggesting that I install straps with tabs glassed to the hull and no bolts. I want to stick with the Cape Dory deck padeye system. Any comments?

hilbert · Post by **hilbert** » Apr 16th, '17, 07:32

IMHO the rig needs to be secured to the hull and not the deck. How this is done is a matter of expense, longevity, maintenance and taste (in other words just another compromise).

JD-MDR · Post by **JD-MDR** » Apr 20th, '17, 09:31

Hi Hilbert,
Whats IMHO mean? I don't speak tex very well. Maybe you misunderstood me. The boatyard wants to run stainless straps like yours but down the inside of the hull and instead of bolts, weld two or three tabs across them and glass all that to the hull. What do you think? Am I being unreasonable wanting to keep the Cape Dory design? The yard needs to have a decision soon as it ready to go back together. I sure like what you did to your deck. My toerail looks OK except a little split at the joint. I will cut in a small piece. The flat piece at the transom is also separated at the joint. A lot of the bungs or plugs are out. Should I just glue new ones in their place. I would like to pull the screws and bore a fresh hole for the plug but there is too many and with all that work I may as well get new wood and new deck while I'm at it.

Chrisa006 · Post by **Chrisa006** » Apr 20th, '17, 10:19

"In my humble opinion"

hilbert · Post by **hilbert** » Apr 20th, '17, 12:55

John, I'm of an age that I also need to Google text messaging jargon, but despite my thick head I've picked up a few.
I added the IMHO as a disclaimer because my comments are based on my own limited reading and experience.
With that in mind:

The boatyard wants to run stainless straps like yours but down the inside of the hull and instead of bolts, weld two or three tabs across them and glass all that to the hull. What do you think?

I don't like the idea of glassing stainless to the inside of the hull. Encasing it in fiberglass creates an anaerobic environment that negates the benefits of stainless. If water runs down the metal, it will fair no better and maybe worse than mild steel. Also, once it is fiberglassed over it will be difficult to inspect. Owners of Island Packets have suffered from this design. For more details you only need to google "Island Packet Chainplate Problems".

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f11 ... post980972

Am I being unreasonable wanting to keep the Cape Dory design?

There is no right or wrong answer. My primary concern is to have strong chainplates that can be easily inspected. External chainplates are a proven design and common to many cruising boats over many years. The ocean is indifferent to the appearance of my boat.

I sure like what you did to your deck. My toerail looks OK except a little split at the joint. I will cut in a small piece. The flat piece at the transom is also separated at the joint. A lot of the bungs or plugs are out.

If it is cosmetic then I would recommend doing the minimum or nothing until you complete repairs, upgrades and preparations for your trip south to LA.

I would like to pull the screws and bore a fresh hole for the plug but there is too many and with all that work I may as well get new wood and new deck while I'm at it.

Too true! That is the rabbit hole that I went down . . .

Jonathan

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CD 28 Cutting into Cabin Liner

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