Mast Bolt Frozen & Breeched In Compression Tube

[hilbert]

While removing the spreader bases from the mast, I found the bolt frozen to the the compression tube.
The tube can only exit the mast on one side, but the bolt head is on the other side (the picture shows the Nyloc nut).
I've already tried using PB Blaster to free the bolt from the compression tube.

Any reason not to heat the bolt with a torch and then hammer it out?

Thanks,

[Keith]

I'd try some heat and PB blaster. The thermal expansion and contraction may help the penetrant to work its way down. A little persuasion with a hammer might help as well but check the side of the mast to ensure that you are not deforming it where the compression tube is being driven into it. Hope this helps.

Keith

[hilbert]

The head of the bolt is holding the spreader base in place on the other side of the mast, so I can't see if the hammering is causing any deformation.
If it was not for the head sitting inside the spreader base, then I would just cut off the head of the bolt.

Jonathan

[Frenchy]

Jonathon, I would keep trying with the heat and PB blaster, trying to keep the heat away from the mast itself. If
nothing else works, you could center punch the bolt head as near center as possible and drill down the thickness
of the head with a 1/8" drill. Follow up with a 1/4" drill, then 3/8", then 1/2" - or whatever the bolt diameter is.
The head should then fall off and you could drive the bolt out as long as the sleeve hasn't welded to the mast.
I can empathize because I had a similar situation on the boom. A little lanacote would have saved a lot of
aggravation. - Jean

[hilbert]

Wow, the suggestion of drilling off the head is brilliant.
I will give that a try if the heat/PB blaster approach fails.

Thanks

[mgphl52]

A good, sharp hacksaw could also remove the bolt head?

[Dick Villamil]

Be very careful here - if your boat has been in salt water environment the corrosion could have mated the bolt to the inside of the compression tube as well as the tube to the mast. PB blaster and gentle heat with the gentle persuasion from a small hammer and some gentle twisting with a locking set of pliers might just loosen it up. Gook luck I had similar issues with my Typhoon. It is a good idea to refasten all hardware on the mast and boom since there may be similar issues with a weakening of the aluminum where they are fastened. Just a thought.

[hilbert]

A good, sharp hacksaw could also remove the bolt head?

Unfortunately not.

By the way, it took hundreds of strikes with a 2lb hammer on an impact driver to remove the screws from the spreader bases.
Of the eight screws, only one of the heads broke off. I'm hopeful that I can grab hold of it with vice grips and then cajole it out with a little heat and a lot of PB Blaster.

[Tom Keevil]

Just curious about why you are removing the spreaders?

[hilbert]

Tom, I'm splicing wire rope over thimbles which require new mast tangs.
Beyond that, I would like to have more confidence than I currently do in my 40+ year stock rig.
Call me eccentric, but just don't call me late for dinner.
Jonathan

[hilbert]

Jean, thank you for explaining how to remove this bolt and compression tube from the mast.

I first tried several rounds of heat, PB Blaster and hammering.
After about 30 minutes, it became obvious that this was not going to work.
In the end, I followed your instructions.

It was a bit of a challenge to drill off the head of a stainless bolt.
I used cobalt bits with a lot of cutting oil. Still, the bits may have been dulled today.

Jonathan

[Frenchy]

Great job, Jonathon. Yes, I bet it was a challenge. Stainless is not easy to work on. Drilling speed is
important; if your rpms are too high, the bit dulls and the stainless will work harden with the heat generated.
Now you'll be shopping for a new bolt and compression tube, but the job's done! Good luck! - Jean