prospective CD 28 buyer question about Volvo

[Maine_Buzzard]

Expect about $6K for a Beta 14 and transmission, $3K for prop, shafts, shifter, and 40 hours of paid labor (@$75-100/hr) to have it installed. If a mechanic is doing the work, ask if you can do much of the grunt work, pulling wiring, fuel lines, exhaust, and prop shaft. You can save about 10 hours of paid work without much risk.

Think about replacing the fuel tank, as it may only be possible to remove it intact when the engine is out. I could easily drop down to a 5 or 8 gallon tank with my Beta, as I do not motor for days.

The flexible shaft log and cutless will get replaced at this time too.

http://www.capedory.org/board/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=31120

Watch the boat sale sites (www.sailingtexas.com, www.searchtempest.com) for a used Beta engine, or buy a non-submerged salvage boat for a good engine. 14-16hp is good for a 28, 20hp is nearly too much engine for that boat.

[mgphl52]

Get a survey first. I still have the original MD7A in KAYLA and have had very few problems. The only major change was replacing the custom exhaust elbow/muffler combo. We used some black iron fittings and a YANMAR 170 degree mixing elbow with a verna-lift type muffler. Since buying her back, I have replaced the YANMAR elbow with a duplicate made from stainless steel. The single biggest PITA is the water pump... it's on the back of the engine and requires contortion to work on. Last time I had it off, I replaced the backing plate with a 'speed-seal' in hopes of making impeller replacements easier. Unless the engine has been abused, I wouldn't worry about a replacement. Therefore, make sure your surveyor knows VOLVO engines!

[sgbernd]

I just replaced my 33 yr old MD7B this past year with a Beta16. I believe the MD7 was one of the best engines Volvo made although now, is well past it's prime. I know of several still running.

A critical fact which was left out of the discussion is if the engine was fresh water cooled or saltwater cooled. If fresh water or better yet, closed cycle with a heat exchanger, I would consider it. If salt water cooled, you are past due for replacement and living on borrowed time. If you do decide to go further, an easy check of the engine health is to take the boat out for a sea trial and run at wide open throttle for at least 15 minutes in forward gear (not neutral) under normal load. (Make sure the thermostat has not been removed!). Watch the temperature for those 15 minutes. If the temperature holds steady and on the cool side of things, you may have some life remaining. If the temperature starts creeping into the red, or starts to boil when you shut it down, well, you know the rest of the story.

These engines could be theoretically repaired but the prices are so ridiculous for anything but the usual spares, it doesn't make any sense. And the used spares you find for sale are usually in the same or worse condition as the one you are trying to replace.

BTW, I found the engine replacement cost more than anticipated because you will end up replacing everything, from the throttle control, to the battery cables to the muffler. I do mean everything except the fuel tank and water separator.

s.g.bernd