Cetol vs Two part or one part varnish

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Joe CD MS 300
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Cetol vs Two part or one part varnish

Post by Joe CD MS 300 »

I need to finish a teak cockpit table and an integrated glass/bottle binocular holder. I have had good results with both the original Cetol and the newer Cetol Natural Teak finish. Our cockpit has built in teak lazzeretts that have been Cetoled and have held up well to being walked on any time the boat is used. However I was wondering that for a table I might be better off going with a two part varnish. My thinking is that the table will get more abuse from knives, forks, bottles, pots, etc. than the soft soles that the lazzeretts are exposed to. The table will be stored when not in use so UV protection is not a big issue. I already have enough Ceotl on hand to do the job. A two part or one part varnish will probably show the grain of the table better. Does anyone think durability will be an issue? I'm sort of assuming that a two part varnish will be more durable than a one part or Cetol much like a two part topside paint such as Awlgrip but that is just an assumption on my part.
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Re: Cetol vs Two part or one part varnish

Post by casampson »

I recently went through a similar debate regarding a land-based oak table and decided to go with polyurethane.
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tjr818
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Re: Cetol vs Two part or one part varnish

Post by tjr818 »

A wood table will probably shrink and swell with the weather and humidity changes, so I think you need to use either a spar varnish or Cetol. Do you just use the Natural Teak or have you been overcoating with the Cetol Gloss. I think the over coat of Cetol Gloss might be tough enough, not as tough as a Polyurethane Spar Varnish though. If the table is stored out of the weather you might also try just using a teak oil.
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Paul D.
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Re: Cetol vs Two part or one part varnish

Post by Paul D. »

I have the old Edson folding binnacle table that came with the boat. It was unfinished and I have been using teak oil and I feel that works well. Once every few years I give it the two part teak cleaning, a light sanding and then oil it up. When I am a good owner I get a coat of oil on it once a year. What's nice is that if/when someone sloppily cuts an apple on it, I don't really worry too much.

In our situation the table is covered by the binnacle cover when not in use but when we are aboard, the table is exposed. The oils wears off a little faster at the bottom where the cover sometimes blows around and the rain hits it off the cockpit sole.

If I were to finish it I would probably go with a Cetol Light and several gloss coats.
Last edited by Paul D. on Sep 10th, '16, 14:49, edited 1 time in total.
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Joe CD MS 300
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Re: Cetol vs Two part or one part varnish

Post by Joe CD MS 300 »

tjr818 wrote:A wood table will probably shrink and swell with the weather and humidity changes, so I think you need to use either a spar varnish or Cetol. Do you just use the Natural Teak or have you been overcoating with the Cetol Gloss. I think the over coat of Cetol Gloss might be tough enough, not as tough as a Polyurethane Spar Varnish though. If the table is stored out of the weather you might also try just using a teak oil.

I started out using the original Cetol but have since switched to the Cetol Natural. Used it on the teak on a Typhoon I bought last fall that had been allowed to go grey and I like the results. I have not tried the Cetol clear coat yet. This might be a good project to try it out on. Thanks all for the comments.
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