hi,
My cape dory has been in storage for 10 years so have lots of questions.
The mast is down and the standing rigging uses swage fittings on top and sta locs on the bottoms.
I wonder if I should also replace the swage fittings with sta locs ?
Does anyone know if this would be bad ?
arch
standing rigging advise please
Moderator: Jim Walsh
-
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- Joined: Dec 22nd, '10, 21:15
- Location: Feet Dry, Olympia, WA
Re: standing rigging advise please
No need to swap fittings around randomly... but if you don't know how old the rigging is, it's time to start replacing it.
How about taking the whole set to a rigger for advice? Plan a schedule of replacing a few at a time... Swaged fittings are still safe and reliable if done at a professional shop, and that some have been swapped for Sta-lock leads me to think that something was wrong with some of the original fittings.
You will want to step the mast and verify length of the stays and shrouds, marking turnbuckles with the rig tensioned. The rigger can adjust length on the new ones based on the current position of the threads in the turnbuckles.
Check every eye and pin for correct sizing- on an older boat, you may find a tang with a 5/16" hole, and an eye with a 1/4" pin.
Upper shrouds first, then forestay/ backstay, then lowers over three years is a good way to spread the cost. Expect $150-200 for each depending on the size of the boat.
How about taking the whole set to a rigger for advice? Plan a schedule of replacing a few at a time... Swaged fittings are still safe and reliable if done at a professional shop, and that some have been swapped for Sta-lock leads me to think that something was wrong with some of the original fittings.
You will want to step the mast and verify length of the stays and shrouds, marking turnbuckles with the rig tensioned. The rigger can adjust length on the new ones based on the current position of the threads in the turnbuckles.
Check every eye and pin for correct sizing- on an older boat, you may find a tang with a 5/16" hole, and an eye with a 1/4" pin.
Upper shrouds first, then forestay/ backstay, then lowers over three years is a good way to spread the cost. Expect $150-200 for each depending on the size of the boat.
Re: standing rigging clarify
Sorry I was not clear.
I replaced ALL the bottom fitting s with sta locs myself 10 years ago.
I am wondering now that the mast is down if I should also replace all the swaged original upper fittings with sta locs.
The standing rigging was alos done by me and is 12 years old but boat was in storage so not used.
arch
I replaced ALL the bottom fitting s with sta locs myself 10 years ago.
I am wondering now that the mast is down if I should also replace all the swaged original upper fittings with sta locs.
The standing rigging was alos done by me and is 12 years old but boat was in storage so not used.
arch
- David van den Burgh
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- Location: Ariel CD36, 1979 - Lake Michigan
- Contact:
Re: standing rigging clarify
If the upper fittings look good and the boat has been in storage for a number of years, I don't see why it would be necessary to change the fittings. Was the boat stored indoors or covered outdoors? I'd say keep them if a close inspection doesn't reveal any apparent problems - e.g., rust, cracks, broken wires, bent fittings, etc.arch007 wrote:Sorry I was not clear.
I replaced ALL the bottom fitting s with sta locs myself 10 years ago.
I am wondering now that the mast is down if I should also replace all the swaged original upper fittings with sta locs.
The standing rigging was alos done by me and is 12 years old but boat was in storage so not used.
arch
Re: standing rigging advise please
Boat was stored outside.
Wiring is a little rusty but when I replaced the wiring I went up one size. I understand the way to test wiring is to run your finger and see if anything catches. Is there any other way ?
I also plan to replace all the cottor pins. The spreader boot (aluminium) is corroded but I just plan to brush out all the crystals.
I also have seizing wire new but stored for 10 years. It should still be usuable ?
Thanks. Sorry for all the questions but bringing a cape dory back to life is a lot of work.
arch
Wiring is a little rusty but when I replaced the wiring I went up one size. I understand the way to test wiring is to run your finger and see if anything catches. Is there any other way ?
I also plan to replace all the cottor pins. The spreader boot (aluminium) is corroded but I just plan to brush out all the crystals.
I also have seizing wire new but stored for 10 years. It should still be usuable ?
Thanks. Sorry for all the questions but bringing a cape dory back to life is a lot of work.
arch
- tjr818
- Posts: 1851
- Joined: Oct 13th, '07, 13:42
- Location: Previously owned 1980 CD 27 Slainte, Hull #185. NO.1257949
Re: standing rigging advise please
I am sure others will have good advice for you too. Best of luck and thanks for saving a Cape Dory.arch007 wrote:Boat was stored outside.
Wiring is a little rusty but when I replaced the wiring I went up one size. I understand the way to test wiring is to run your finger and see if anything catches. Is there any other way ?
Do not use your fingers. Use a rag to check for broken strands, an old wool sock works best.
I also plan to replace all the cottor pins. The spreader boot (aluminium) is corroded but I just plan to brush out all the crystals.
Never reuse cotter pins!
I also have seizing wire new but stored for 10 years. It should still be useable ?
Stainless steel wire should be good forever. When I was in the army, back in the sixties we used aviation seizing wire from WWII
Thanks. Sorry for all the questions but bringing a cape dory back to life is a lot of work.
arch
Tim
Nonsuch 26 Ultra,
Previously, Sláinte a CD27
Nonsuch 26 Ultra,
Previously, Sláinte a CD27