CD25 Repower

[FL Dan]

Hi, I'm new to the forum. Looks great and appreciate all the help. I'm having a 1975 CD25 surveyed and will likely purchase. I'm wondering what the ideal engine/prop for a repower for me would be. I've seen a lot of posts on this topic but all seem several years old and I know a lot has changed with engines the last couple years. I'm in FL East Coast with about a 20 minute steam to the ocean, then can have a good bit of current in my inlet (Hillsboro Inlet) so need a bit of speed. I'm intrigued with the simplicity of the Tohatsu Sail Pro 6 HP but concerned it won't have enough power for the tidal currents. The boat currently has a 1990s 2 stroke Evinrude 9.9 with an electric start on it. If not the Sail Pro, I'll look for a high thrust lower unit and the right prop for the job. Thank you very much!

[Carl Thunberg]

I can tell you from first-hand experience that the Nissan/Tohatsu 6 HP has plenty of power. I sailed my former CD25 in Portsmouth Harbor, with a 6-knot current at full ebb. I generally avoided going up and down-river at full ebb or flow, but if I had to, I could still make forward progress against a 6 knot current. Granted, I wasn't breaking any speed records.

9.9 HP on a CD25 seems excessive, and will make the boat squat in the water.

[mgphl52]

I second Carl's comments. A 9.9 is both overkill and overweight. I junked the one that came with Brigitta and got a 6 hp 4-stroke Tohatsu. It was very easy to lift out of the well and spent most of it's time on the cabin sole. Since I could sail in & out of my marina slip, I only used it when I really, really needed it...

[FL Dan]

Thank you so much Carl and Michael. Very helpful. A couple follow-up questions if you don't mind... 1) Do you recommend the long shaft (20") or extra long shaft (25")?, 2) I'm assuming you just use the stock propeller with the motor - correct?, 3) Any need to have an outboard shop do the rigging or can I do it myself? I'm thinking myself, seems pretty simple. Thanks.

[mgphl52]

Basic long shaft; I used standard prop with out any issues; very simple! no need for help.

[Pompano Dan]

Michael: thank you. Do you see any downside w the 25" shaft besides bigger to store and a little heavier?

[mgphl52]

only that it might cost a few more bucks... Since the CD25 has a well vs hanging off the stern, there really is no need for the extra 5 inches, as I recall.

[tartansailor]

If you are in a venue with serious swells in following seas you might want to
take another look at the 25" shaft; but what ever you do, make sure that
you're getting a prop with a 6" pitch! That is what gives the 6 hp serious thrust.
Don't do 7" and forget 8" entirely.
The last thing you want is a heavy engine in the stern that makes the boat squat.
That is slow. Very slow.
Richard

[Pompano Dan]

Thanks Michael and Richard!

[aja]

Sorry, Carl and Mgphl52 could not disagree with you more.

The Tohatsu 9.8 is perfect for the 25, especially in Buzzards Bay.

s/v aja
1977 cd25 #530
since 2002

[bgephart]

I have had my CD25 since 1984. I have had 9.9 HP, then a 6 HP, both 2 stroke. In June this year I purchased a Tohatsu 6 HP, 4 stroke, with 25 " shaft. I am amazed at the better performance. I can get hull speed easily at only 30 - 40% power. In Savannah we have 7 ft tides with strong current and I have no problems. Very happy with the Tohatsu 6 HP 25" shaft.

[mgphl52]

Sorry, Carl and Mgphl52 could not disagree with you more.

The Tohatsu 9.8 is perfect for the 25, especially in Buzzards Bay.

No apologies needed. We all have different needs and/or expectations.
Since I was in brackish water, having an engine that was light & easy to pull out
as well as put back in was just as big of a priority as having enough HP...
My 6 hp 4-stroke solved both. Plus every CD25 sails better with the outboard
out of the water, regardless of neutral or reverse...

[FL Dan]

Thanks all for the helpful suggestions. I'm in the middle of installing a Tohatsu 6HP SailPro (20" shaft) in the CD25. I can't get the lazarette lid to shut with the current motor mount. It looks like if I can lower the mount 2" the lid will shut fine. Is there any problem with lowering the mount? It looks like all the mechanicals of the motor will be well clear of the water. Thanks so much again for the help.

[bgephart]

That is just what I did. I cut a 2" notch the width of the motor in the motor mount, and now the hatch closes fine. No problems with motor clearance above the water.

Bob Gephart- Savannah

[FL Dan]

Bob: Excellent! Thanks. I was thinking about lowering the metal (aluminum?) angles, re-drilling their holes in the well, etc. However, I may just go your route. The notch would be easier. I'm thinking about redoing the bracket (the wood) with a couple pieces of thick plywood epoxied together and sheathed in fiberglass. Take care.