Typhoon coaming board removal

[Joe CD MS 300]

The teak on the Typhoon I purchased last fall was in good I shape but was unfinished and allowed to go grey. Little by little I am cleaning up and refinishing the teak with Cetol Natural Teak. The teak trim around the hatch boards, seats, and hatch were easily removed and was bedded with almost no caulk. The trim at the aft end of the cockpit looks like it will easily be removed.

When I get to the coaming boards does anyone have any tips or tricks. I'm not to concerenced with caulk as what ever was used seems to have dried out to the point where it should not be a problem. Haven't really tried to figure out have the fore and aft ends of the boards are attached. Is the fore section screwed into the side of the cabin roof? Is the aft section screwed into the aft deck?

Joe

[Joe CD MS 300]

As it turned out the aft end of the coaming board was only caulked to the poop deck. No hidden screw to remove. Once the cockpit screws, the bolts to the winch stand and the three screws in the cabin (if you can call that small space a cabin) were removed it pulled away from the fiberglass easily. Not sure what type of caulk was removed but it was not 5200.

For reference my Typhoon is a 1978. I'm guessing the manufacturing techniques varied over the years.

[mgphl52]

I seriously hope (and actually believe) that Cape Dory would never use something like 5200 on the coaming.
When reseating after whatever work you are doing, please consider using rubber butyl tape.

[Joe CD MS 300]

There was so little caulk around the pieces I have removed so far I was wondering if I should use anything. I have used butyl for bedding hardware but was not sure if it was a good material for teak trim.

[mgphl52]

Yes, rubber butyl tape will work great and stay flexible far longer than most other caulking.

[Mv-typhoon]

Don't forget the hardware inside the cabin wall. All the wood on that boat comes off easily. Had one side of my coaming gooped in with something offal and I had to use a filet knife to get behind Itami cut it free. Good luck

[Joe CD MS 300]

The forward end of the coaming boards only had a little caulk in addition to the three screws in the cuddly cabin. Cleaned the teak with a combination of bleach and dish washing detergent yesterday. Then did a light rub down with some oxyclyic acid. Sanding and one coat of Cetol Marine Natural Teak today on one side. Looking good so far. A lot of varnish purists look down their noses at Cetol but I have had nothing but good experiences. The Natural teak is the best yet. We'll see how it holds up in comparison to the other Cetols.