Typhoon trailer poppets - distance between?

[Alan Stewart]

I need to have some screw-jack stands ("poppets") welded onto a trailer to support a Typhoon - could someone tell me what the ideal distance between front and rear stands should be as well as lateral distance between. Stands to be angled inward at @ 20 degrees =/- ... Thanks!

[Alan Stewart]

According to Cape Dory's design for a Typhoon cradle the distance between the stands laterally should be 48" and longitudinally 68".

[Oswego John]

Alan,

I measured my Ty's Triad trailer. The rear poppet supports the hull at 4' 4" forward of the transom. The angled, rear, poppet support post is attached to the trailer frame 28" forward of the aft end of the frame. The angled, forward, poppet support post's base is attached to the frame 90" forward of the stern post.

All four posts cant inward. They are compound angles. The stern supports lean forward and the forward supports lean to the stern. I would guesstimate at a 15 degree angle.

Good luck.

O J

[Alan Stewart]

Hmmm? The stands on my trailer (which I had welded on after inspecting a Typhoon trailer on Cape Cod, ((albeit not a Triad)), some 10+ years ago prior to bringing the Ty from the Cape to Bar Harbor, ME - where it has spent the all these years in my mom's garage), match your measurements fore and aft, with about 52" c to c of the pads side-to-side, never seemed to support the hull properly - the rears were below the waterline, as they should be, but the fronts only reached the hull topsides, which allowed the bow to ride "nose down" even when snugged up against the bow roller. I assumed therefore that the poppets were spread too far apart fore and aft, and the CD cradle specs would seem to corroborate that, but you say that the Triad supports your boat as it should - now what?!? I'm actually in the process of adapting several different trailers, including aluminum frames, to carry Typhoons and I want to get it right, if possible, in each case, I guess I'll just approach with due caution and see how the first modification works out - Triads use 6 stands do they not? I wonder how much of a factor that is...? Anyhoo, we'll see what's what soon enough - I just bought my first welder today - stand by...
Thanks very much for your response!
Cheers,
Alan
P.S. The tubes on the first go-round (the ones that hold the screwjacks), were about 20"-22" long, that didn't allow them sufficient room to be lowered adequately in my opinion, so I've cut them all down and am now using 17" tubes - how does that compare with yours? One other caveat is that the CD cradle specs showed no incline in any of the tubes - they all appear to be straight verticals -yet another variable... I'm afraid I didn't inherit my Dad's MIT engineering acumen, so I have to do everything the old-fashioned way - by trial and error...

[tjr818]

I wish I could be of more help, but we own a 27. The tubes that hold the screwjacks are vertical on our cradle and there are four, not six. I believe on most Cape Dory cradles or trailers the weight is supported by the keel. I Doubt that the rear pads support much weight at all, if the front pads are lowered I can pull the bow down with one hand.

[Oswego John]

Hi Alan,

I measured the lengths of my Ty's poppet support tubes. The rear support tubes are 19 1/4" long and the front tubes are 19 1/2".

The Triad trailers, suitably sized for a CD Ty, have four support pads. Four seems adequate.

I have built or altered several boat trailers in the past and certainly made my share of mistakes in doing so. If I may, I would like to mention several things to be aware of.

You mention that you bought a new welder and you plan on converting several trailer frames, some of which are made of aluminum. Stickweld or wireweld are ideal for working with steel, not so with aluminum. I don't recommend attaching dissimilar metals, especially for marine use. Unless you have a modest familiarity with heliarc welding, I would advise concentrating your working with steel only.

You mention the conversion of several random makes of (used) trailers for use to transport CD Tys. As coming from the factory, the Tys were basically the same, dimensionwise. Not so with the various measurements of different makes of trailers. For instance, the varying widths aprt of side frames or their height off the ground. Also the elevation of the channel iron keel support. There are a lot of variables to deal width. It's hard to use a cookie cutter to form the necessary parts for fabrication for any and all trailer modifications.

So its back to basics, trial and error. But it's so satisfying when you put the whole schmear together and *IT WORKS*

Good luck
O J

[Alan Stewart]

Hi Tim & OJ,
Of course it goes without saying that the keel pad supports most of the boats weight, and that the only constant in any Typhoon trailer design will be the relative hull contact points that prevent the boat from "tipping" in any direction - the variables are how & where the supports attach to each individual trailer. In welding modifications it also goes without saying that steel-to-steel and aluminum-to-aluminum is the only way to go and the relative techniques will be specific to the material. Indeed each individual trailer presents a unique set of problems when fabricating the various support members and attachment points - therein lies the challenge, and the most time-consuming aspect of it all, as I have learned, is to be found in measuring and cutting all of the complex compound angles needed to create secure structural joints, once that is accomplished the welding itself goes fairly quickly. Hopefully the finished product will satisfy the practical as well as aesthetic requirements of a properly designed and constructed "custom" trailer for the Typhoon - wish me luck and expect to see photos down the line... Thanks for your thoughtful inputs - very much appreciated and necessary to the project(s).
Ciao,
Alan

[rjnale]

Alan,
Here is a picture (I hope it attached) of my old Typhoon on her trailer. You might be able to enlarge the photo and use a scale to get an idea of the arrangement. I believe it was a custom made trailer. She rode as solid as a rock. Important thing is the supports only keep the boat from tipping over, all weight is carried by the keel mentioned before.
I sold the boat and trailer last year. I now have a Typhoon daysailer. The new trailer is configured with 4 posts 2 fore and 2 aft with a carpet covered 3/4x4" plank that hugs the belly curve attached on each side of posts. The posts are vertical 1" square steel that slide up and down thru square channel welded on the trailer frame. The posts are held in position by screw bolts.
I could grab a couple pictures when I'm at the marina later this week if your interested.
Rick

[Alan Stewart]

Hey Rick, Your former Typhoon was/is a real beauty! I like the trailer set-up also - haven't seen quite that configuration before - I'd be interested in knowing the spacing of the vertical stands (fore & aft & side-to-side), might just adopt that style on one of my trailers. I don't see any kind of mast support pole (maybe it's out of the photo...), how did you transport the rig? I'd love to see your new boat & trailer as well, does it have both poppet pads AND "belly bunks", or just the latter? Do you sail inland lakes or the coast? What made you decide to switch from the Weekender to the Daysailer - more room in the cockpit or something other than that?
Alan

[rjnale]

Hi Alan sorry for the delay in response. I haven't been able to get to the marina to get pictures of new trailer configuration.
Yes it has "belly bunks" only. See pictures.
I was always in the market for the daysailer model bit couldn't find one. So I bought the weekender in the first pictures due it good price and condition. We sailed one season and then found the daysailer near by for sale with a little "detective" work.
I built a mast cradle out of PVC to support the mast during storage. I don't trailer the boat, we moor all season in one location.
I hope the pictures help you in your design. Note how the supports are raised or lowered and lock in place with bolts in one of the pics.
Good luck
Rick

[Michael_Typhoon]

I have a different Typhoon Trailer question...I need to replace the axle on my single axle typhoon trailer. I know the displacement on the Typhoon is 2,000 lbs. Should I get a 2,000 lb axle or 3,500 lb?

[Alan Stewart]

Either one will work, but it is always smart to err on the side of "heavier" vs "good enough" when it comes to trailers - cost difference is negligible and unless you plan to reuse the hubs, all new matching components (including leaf springs), will guarantee many more trouble-free years of use. You might even consider going to a torsion axle (no leaf springs and sealed hubs), for even greater peace of mind... Best of luck!
Capt. Stewart
(Long-distance boat hauler & blue-water sailor...)