Triad Trailer for Cape Dory 25D

[Sea Hunt Video]

I posted this request on the "For Sale" section before realizing I am really asking for information.

I am coming around to the idea that, at least for me, if I stay in South Florida (the "hurricane capitol of the world") it may be better for me to buy a Triad Trailer and haul out S/V Bali Ha'i in late June and then splash in early October. This will allow me to not have to scramble to secure her at a marina, haul out, or put her in mangroves, when a hurricane is headed this way.

To that end I post to ask if there are any special features or "add ons" that I should order from Triad - special brakes, ladder, special lighting, etc. Although I have yet to decide on a haul out marina (they are getting fewer and fewer for sailboats ), it will probably be a 20-30 mile trip from the marina to the house (mostly, if not all, on streets - no expressway traffic).

Also, where is the best place to put the mast during transport Most I have seen have been positioned on the coach/cabin roof with a brace at the stern and the other end of the mast resting on the bowsprit with overhang at both ends. I had thought of possibly securing the mast along the side of the trailer although I suspect the mast may be a little too long. Not sure.

Anyways, any suggestions on trailer add ons, features, storage, etc. will be much appreciated. I have never trailered anything in my life. It will be another new adventure.

[Bob Lascelles]

Hi Roberto
I've always brought my boats home for the off season, since it's so much more convenient to work on them and I have great neighbors who like boats! Vindolanda came with a Triad trailer (circa 1990) float on style, so it has guides for the keel, a retractable third wheel under the tongue and a tongue extension, ladder and winch. You have to take the rear keel guides off if you're going to launch at a yard using slings. Triad's 25D trailer also comes setup for just yard launching and I think it's less expensive. So if you're not going to use ramps I think you can save some cost there. I have not yet ramp launched her, but I'm tempted
Towing a boat as large as a 25D requires a good sized truck to be safe a 3/4 ton or a properly equipped 1/2 ton. I use a 1/2 Ton V8 Tundra that's rated for 10,000 lbs towing but only with a weight distributing hitch. My trailer has surge brakes, which haven't given me any problems, but I think there are probably better choices now.

I don't know if the mast could be carried alongside the boat, I think probably not without removing the spreaders. I carry the mast on top, supported by 2/4 wooden crutches at the stern rail and on top the mast base. At the bow I put a 2/4 across the pulpit and the mast rests on that. Tied down well the mast travels just fine. The whole rig is about 12 ft high, so you have to watch your clearance height.
Good luck with your project.

Bob

[ariasis]

My Triad has a built in support for the mast at the front it is integrated with the ladder and winch. The rear of the mast is supported by a cross board at the stern.

I think you want to keep the mast up top for visibility purposes. I had an old 12ft little dingy when I first learned to sail that had the mast strapped to the trailer under the hull. It was not all that convenient having to strap it to the trailer and their was always the concern some one would run into the mast as it extended quite a away so past the back of he Trailer. You will also want a tounge extension if you are pulling and launching at a ramp.

[Sea Hunt Video]

Bob and Chris and all:

Thanks for the info. I do NOT plan to be launching at a boat ramp because of the type of trailer I am thinking of buying. Triad makes a trailer with jack stand type pads. I need to find a boatyard that will allow me to pay them money to just lift my little sailboat out of the water with straps and then lower it onto the trailer. I have been calling around to Miami area boatyards and, so far, NO ONE wants my money (American dollars) to perform the task of hauling out and putting on a trailer. Pretty amazing.

With the bench-type pads on a trailer I do not think I can paint the bottom while on the trailer.

Bob, you mentioned surge brakes. Is there a different style/type I should be considering

[Alan Stewart]

Roberto,
You are correct that having bunk pads makes painting the bottom more difficult - the only way to get at the area that sits on the bunks is to either wait until the boat is being lifted off and then roll the two strips while the boat is hanging in the air, (as well as the bottom of the keel) - fortunately most bottom paint is fairly quick-drying so this is a reasonable option. The other method, if the bunks can be loosened or lowered, is to temporarily support one side at a time with boat stands or 6' 2x4's under the rubrail and do it that way - I can send you a photo if you like...
As for finding someone to lift and launch your boat, I have a suggestion - try talking to Harry Hogan at Shake-A-Leg Miami in Coconut Grove. Harry is the founder and a really good guy - they might agree to do it for you in exchange for a donation to their organization (a very worthy cause). You might mention that you were referred by me or Ken Rosen, who is also a friend and on the board I believe. My reason for going to Miami the week after next is to pick up Ken's new Typhoon at Shake-A-Leg, (load it with their boat lift), and tow it up to Harpswell, Maine for the summer. This might well be a viable option for you - Shake-A-Leg has a fleet of Freedom 20's so there is a good chance that their crane would be able to handle your CD25 as well - at least it's worth checking out. Good luck!

[Alan Stewart]

Correction (sorry): I was thinking of my Typhoon when I recommended 6' 2x4's - your CD25D would most likely require 7' 2x4's since the draft is 3' rather than 2'6"..., on the brakes issue surge brakes work well - you would probably only need them on one axle rather than two (a CD25D trailer ought to have dual axles), but opt for disc brakes as opposed to drum and you'll have less corrosion issues. Electric brakes or a hydraulic connection to your vehicles brakes are not necessary for your purposes - surge brakes will work just fine and are pretty much maintenance-free.

[Bob Lascelles]

Hi Roberto,
I agree with Alan, I was thinking electric brakes might be a nice option, but surge brakes are easy to service and pretty foolproof. If you visit Triads website they have nice pictures of their trailer for a 25D. It's a lift off model, but they explain their optional packages (there are now three: Lift-off; Float-off; and Special Float-off). I apparently have an older special float-off. Wish it was galvanized like the new ones. Actually bottom painting is not a problem. I just lower the pads, two at a time (one on each side). Paint the two spots, wait till they dry and then put them back up, and repeat with the next pair. Since the trailer has three pads per side, the boat always has two supports in place per side and the keel, so I've never had a problem.
This week is bottom paint week, on the water soon.
All the best
Bob

[Oswego John]

Hi Roberto,

You have been given some good pointers for inclusion in ordering a new trailer. I have most always used surge brakes. Go for the disc pads.

I find it is very handy to have a tower at the front of the trailer. On this tower at the top is a support for the mast. The support is usually higher than the pulpit, if Bali Hai does have a pulpit?

I have always transported my mast above the cabin and supported by the tower in the front, a support pillow on the cabin roof and I fashion an "X" brace of padded 2"x"4"s in the rear. I find that a steel ladder attached to the tower is very handy when positioning the mast and securing it. The ladder also provides easy access to the trailer bow winch. I prefer the winch to be slightly lower than the bow chocks in order to provide a slight downward tug on the hull when traveling.

I forgot to mention earlier that when securing the mast for transporting it, make sure that it is in a straight line with no bends dips or sags in it. All supporting surfaces should be cushioned.

Continuous sunlight is a killer on trailer tires year after year. I can just imagine what the tropical sun's damage can do to the tires. If possible, keep the trailer in the shade or at least cover the tires.

I wish you the best with your new trailer. Not that I am thinking negatively, but it makes for a much easier resale if the boat has its own custom fitted trailer package. It erases many concerns.

Good luck,

O J

[Sea Hunt Video]

Alan, Bob and OJ and all:

Thanks very much for the information, recommendations, etc. Much appreciated.

I do not know yet if I will be buying a trailer. First I need to find a place that will allow me to pay them money to haul out and put her on a trailer. So far not much luck.

If I can find a marina, then I think I have found a local hauler who is willing to tow from a marina to my house. I would not try it in my old truck - too many miles, too much age.

Triad says it is about 6 weeks from order date to delivery.

Alan, I will call Shake a Leg and ask about "renting" their lift. I have the CD 25D which probably weights about 6,200 lbs.

Thanks again

[Astronomertoo]

Hi Roberto,
I had selected Triad as my favorite if I were going to order one. You never see one used, and they are expensive, but I think the best made if you can afford it. I ended up buying a boat on a trailer so did not order one.
I am a very safety minded person and had bought a very good new galvanized Shoreline sailboat trailer back in 1979 for my Kittywake 23. The trailer alone weighed 1990#. You did not say if you are going to pull the boat out of the water with it, or use a crane to load the boat on the trailer? It would be good if you can get the yard to lift it out and load it on at least the first time, and adjust it all up to fit the boat correctly for you. You will need a very strong truck. I would buy the fully galvanized, electric brakes, with LED lights, water wash down disk brake system, the keel guards to line up/keep the keel centered, even if you did not load it in the water, and get the front ladder with a mast carrier for the front. I do not like to sit the mast on either the bow or stern rails even with cushions, as it bends/screws them up. I believe Triad has a lower rack option available to carry the boom and mast on the trailer under/beside the boat, and they know how to fit the 25s as I have talked to them in person. Alternatively you can get wood saddles made from 2x4s and plywood to bolt up to the boat and trailer front upright vertical extension. Always tape your wire and rope rigging within padded carpet to keep it all neat, straight, and prevent screwing things up. Incidentally, the mast will jump up and down big time on a road trip, and can beat up the top of the boat, and the spreaders will rub your top cabin and teak rails if not prevented. Been there done that. We pulled our older CD25 down from Connecticut and it was a heck of a trip on rough roads. Everything moves! A short drive for you is easy. BTW do not go cheap with Chinese tires, buy the best and heaviest ply radials you can get, and buy the 5th same for your spare, and include the same spare carrier for the trailer. All parts should be galvanized if it is ever to go into the water. Almost all the tires are now Chinese, but there are good, better, and crappy. You want the 15" and heavier ply rating, higher pressure tires on galvanized wheels, and all 5 balanced (!) before you pick up the trailer. A good trailer is not cheap, and better tires are safer, and will last longer. Goodyear Marathons are guaranteed with damage expenses insurance included for 5 years, and I use them. I buy mine thru Camping World like I do my RV tires. Most cheaper tires have no coverage, and many do not even have the required DOT numbers on the tires.
Raising the mast on the trailer is another matter.
Best wishes
Bob C

[Alan Stewart]

Boy-o-Boy Roberto - you certainly woke up the masses eager to share their advice and opinions on trailers! How do you like sipping out of a fire hose?!? All well-intentioned opinions no doubt - but you'll need to sift carefully according to your specific needs, as you have already indicated by stating that you have no intention of launching your boat yourself... Mea culpa once again.... I don't know where I came up with the 3000 lb. weight for your boat (I was only off by a smidge!), I must have been thinking of a Typhoon Sr.! So, perhaps Shake-A-Legs crane will not be able to handle your boat after all - (I haven't seen their lift yet), and there may also be liability issues that come into play - but nevertheless give Harry a call...
FINALLY, I'll leave you with one Last bit of advice - in the 1987 movie "Moonstruck", actor Vincent Gardenia ("Cosmo"), describes his sales pitch for his preferred plumbing material to his paramour over a romantic dinner: "...I tell her that she can replace her pipes with metal, or plastic (he says with disdain)... and then there is Copper - which is the Only pipe I use...", (She swoons in admiration...).

When it comes to trailers you can choose metal (painted), which is ok for fresh water, or galvanized for salt water, although it too will eventually succumb to rust, ..."And then there is"...Aluminum, which is the only material I use (for boat trailers that is). As the old saying goes - "You pays your money and takes your chances..." or, "Pay me now, or pay me later..." 'Nuff said! Best of luck!

[Astronomertoo]

Boy-o-Boy Roberto - you certainly woke up the masses eager to share their advice and opinions on trailers! How do you like sipping out of a fire hose?!? All well-intentioned opinions no doubt - but you'll need to sift carefully according to your specific needs, as you have already indicated by stating that you have no intention of launching your boat yourself... Mea culpa once again.... I don't know where I came up with the 3000 lb. weight for your boat (I was only off by a smidge!), I must have been thinking of a Typhoon Sr.! So, perhaps Shake-A-Legs crane will not be able to handle your boat after all - (I haven't seen their lift yet), and there may also be liability issues that come into play - but nevertheless give Harry a call...
FINALLY, I'll leave you with one Last bit of advice - in the 1987 movie "Moonstruck", actor Vincent Gardenia ("Cosmo"), describes his sales pitch for his preferred plumbing material to his paramour over a romantic dinner: "...I tell her that she can replace her pipes with metal, or plastic (he says with disdain)... and then there is Copper - which is the Only pipe I use...", (She swoons in admiration...).

When it comes to trailers you can choose metal (painted), which is ok for fresh water, or galvanized for salt water, although it too will eventually succumb to rust, ..."And then there is"...Aluminum, which is the only material I use (for boat trailers that is). As the old saying goes - "You pays your money and takes your chances..." or, "Pay me now, or pay me later..." 'Nuff said! Best of luck!

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Ditto with Mea Culpa,
However, I only provide info to consider. Cheaper yet would be to rent a trailer from an owner. Also keep in mind once you get up to a total Gross towed weight of boat and trailer of 8000-9000#, like the 25D will be all up, all the undercarriage is still steel, and you need damn good brakes to stop all that mass every single time, even if no one pulls out in front of you. Light weight surge brakes may not be available or recommended on that class of trailer, I do not know. I know I regularly stop all my trailers with proportional control easily, with a dash board control, up to 20,000#. I had a light weight aluminum 29 ft Float On trailer for 20 years and its aluminum was still excellent. It was the steel parts I had to chase and replace, but I have never seen a large aluminum trailer for tall full keel sailboats or I would have one. BTW I carry my mast ready to go on top of the boat, in my custom carrier saddle blocks at both ends to protect both the boat rails, topside, and the mast parts. And sorry, I missed the part about Roberto not intending to water launch or recover, which makes it much simpler. I must be able to water launch my old CD25 since we have no alternative in this area. I would still not trust my beloved boat rig to cheap tires or surge brakes in my lighter size range, and I do like and have all copper pipe in my house. That is part of why there are so many choices for the buyers.
Bob C
Fair winds and follwing seas

[Alan Stewart]

Hey Bob,
Want to buy a 10,000 lb. rated aluminum trailer? I know where you can get one. My friends at Charleston Trailer will be happy to build one for you - but there are other dealers even closer to you, and the torsion axles come fully galvanized! No worries...

[Astronomertoo]

Hey Bob,
Want to buy a 10,000 lb. rated aluminum trailer? I know where you can get one. My friends at Charleston Trailer will be happy to build one for you - but there are other dealers even closer to you, and the torsion axles come fully galvanized! No worries...

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My current trailer is adequate for my 25, and a future CD28, but out of curiosity, I put out a request to them to learn what they can provide. They ad displays power boat trailers including some which look much like my old 6000 GVW Float On trailer, with torsion axles.
Bob C

[Astronomertoo]

Hey Bob,
Want to buy a 10,000 lb. rated aluminum trailer? I know where you can get one. My friends at Charleston Trailer will be happy to build one for you - but there are other dealers even closer to you, and the torsion axles come fully galvanized! No worries...

--------
My current trailer is adequate for my 25, and a future CD28, but out of curiosity, I put out a request to them to learn what they can provide. They ad displays power boat trailers including some which look much like my old 6000 GVW Float On trailer, with torsion axles.
Bob C

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The fresh answer, fyi, is:
"Hi Bob, sorry we do not build sail boat trailers.
Thank you for your inquiry.
Regards, Rod
Charleston Trailer "