New typhooner

[Mv-typhoon]

I recently just picked up a cape dory typhoon. An old family friend sold his property and among other boats I spoted the typhoon. It was love at first sight for me with this hull. He said if I move it I can have it! I stripped the woodwork and have 8 coats petit capts. varnish on it. I plan to paint the decks to cover up that Alberg blue. Planing on two coats EZ poxy desert sand. Still have to compound and wax the gel coat, and paint a new boot stripe but she is coming together. I downloaded the owners manual and have a few quetions. Planing on replacing all the lines. Added up the total number of feet it says I will need but is the book right? I don't want to start pre cutting lines and find out they should be longer or shorter. What is the topping lift? What dose it do if I have the clip on the back stay? On my transom I have two extra blocks on port and starboard side what are they for? The TY emblem is falling off my sail that other than that is in good shape. How do I stick it back on? Sorry for all the quetions but the race is on to have it ready for summer. Here are a few pics of how I found her and the work Iv done. Any information I can get on this cool boat will be appreciated thanks.

[mashenden]

Her beauty shines through, and now with the teak looking so good, I'll bet you cannot wait to see it all pulled together. You found a diamond in the rough

Regarding the extra blocks, if you look in the sales brochure that is on the website called (1983?).... they are on that boat. They are not in use in the large picture on page 2, but if you look closely at the smaller pictures on page 4, it appears that the jib sheet goes through the first block (on the track), then continues aft to the second block, and then is routed forward into the cockpit. Not sure why they would need this, but that appears to be their intent - maybe eliminates wear on the varnished coamings??.

Cape Dory gave us lots of options on blocks for jibs - The ones on the cabin are also used for the jib. When sailing close to the wind with a smaller jib, you can route the sheets inside the shrouds and it will point better - this really works.

Regarding the emblem and assuming you do not have a sewing machine with zig-zag, I would take it by your local sail-maker and have them stitch the emblems back on. Alternately, I would try 3M spray adhesive, but you would have to mask the areas to not make a mess of the rest of the sail.

I am not sure about the accuracy of line lengths in the manual - sorry.

Oh, be sure to pay attention to the cabin roof for sag. The Typhoon is known to have an issue in that area due to the mast step pushing downward. Not all have this issue, but if there is some sag, a compression post inside the cabin would be a good idea. There are quite a few posts on that matter in this forum.

Where are you located? The Typhoon Nationals are held here in VA on the Rappahannock River (also a post on this in the forum). Early June if I remember right - not meaning to ratchet up the pressure!!.

[Mv-typhoon]

I live on the island of Martha's Vineyard off of Massachusetts. Maybe next year on the Nationals I'm getting married in June. I looks like a lot of people have opted out on the stern blocks might take them out for less clutter. Thinking the no stretch line is the difference maker? Thanks for your help

[sloopjohnl]

good luck with the restoration. looks like you have a good start and overall the ty looks in good shape. the blocks on the transom i am assuming mean they are on the aft deck or aft deck teak - these i use for an asymmetrical spinnaker. the blocks on the toerail tracksi use for the 135% genoa and the blocks on the cabintop i use for the 100% working jib. the aft deck blocks could also be used for a larger genoa or a symmetrical spinnaker. the manual measurements for the halyards is right, but i just ordered new lines from fisheries supply (they had a good sale on samson 5/16" els extra T) and got 50' for the jib halyard and 60' for the main halyard.

[Mv-typhoon]

Thank you helps a lot. I have full title and all paperwork was kept in a gun safe in his barn. I have 240' 5/16 few ft extra of nice dacron braided going to start cutting and whipping tonight thanks

[ariasis]

When I look at it it seems like those cabin top blocks are pretty close to the mast step. They look like some one has lead the spinnaker halyard and pole control lines back to the cockpit.

Good luck with the project. Typhoons are he best....!

[Skeep]

Clever handle as well!

I remember pulling all my teak off some 3 years ago now, and underneath that grey lies a wonderful wood that you have discovered I see.

Great project boat. Welcome.

[tjr818]

...and underneath that grey lies a wonderful wood that you have discovered I see.
Great project boat. Welcome.

The more times we sand, scrape, and Cetol I am beginning to think that it is the other way around.
Underneath all that varnish lies some wonderful grey teak that requires little to no maintenance.
Alas, if only varnished teak did no look SO good.

[Mv-typhoon]

Thanks everyone. I work at a boat yard and spend my winters laying varnish. I don't mind the yearly maintenance. I was going to bung some of the woodwork in but if I leave the finish washers I can pull it off and sneak it into my winter work. Still looking for cushion patterns or dimensions so I don't have to pay for the guy to measure. If anyone remembers good treads on typhoons let me know. Also Edgartown harbor is a great place to sail. You can book online and free showers and trash. If anyone is looking for a typhoon friendly harbor look no farther. But you might wan to come in September it's the best time of year.

[Alan Stewart]

Congrats on your new Ty! I absolutely agree that Edgartown is a perfect home for a Typhoon, but then so is all of MV, not to mention the Elizabeth Islands, Buzzards Bay and just about Anywhere in New England!!! I scored a truly trashed Ty about 15+ years ago from an old guy in Eel Pond, Woods Hole (he'd planned to restore it but lost interest). I fell in love with Typhoons while working at a boatyard in Bourne after I refinished two of them for customers - they have perhaps the most devoted following of almost any of the small daysailors, certainly equal to H12s. Speaking of compression posts - I just purchased 20' of 2" round S.S. tubing for same and have enough for 4 or 5 Typhoons if you or anyone is looking for materials. I could even bring it to Falmouth later this month if you're interested - I'll be stopping there briefly en route to Maine with, you guessed it - another Typhoon! Best of luck with your upcoming launch! Cheers...

[noreaster]

Hey,

I just had templates made for cabin and cockpit cushions for my typhoon. I can send them over to you when my cushions are done. Should be about another week.

My ty's in very similar shape. Trying to get all the same done in the next 3 weeks.
I'm just finishing up restoring the original gelcoat on the decks. Wet sand, compound, polish, wax.

Once it stops raining I'll repaint the non-skid and start on the wood.
What did you use to bring your cockpit wood back to life? Did you scrape, or sand?





edit: I haven't touched the compainonway slider yet

[Paul D.]

In considering your restoration, you might look at replacing your original port lights with these bronze ones. Pricey, but when I did it they were about $120/each and I swear they made the boat look $1,000 better. Really worth considering if the old plastic ones are baked to death like mine were. It was not a difficult job but I did need to open the original cut outs a little bit. This was before I had a grinder - man, those were good times with a rasp and files.

I cannot find the exact ones I originally got in 1998 from ABI but these links give you an idea. They need to be pretty small to fit, like the 4" size, or else the flange will not fit the curve of the cabin sides.

http://www.sailboatstuff.com/cb_Bronze_ ... rnzrndport

http://www.piersupply.com/Item/bronze_r ... portlights

[noreaster]

In considering your restoration, you might look at replacing your original port lights with these bronze ones. Pricey, but when I did it they were about $120/each and I swear they made the boat look $1,000 better. Really worth considering if the old plastic ones are baked to death like mine were. It was not a difficult job but I did need to open the original cut outs a little bit. This was before I had a grinder - man, those were good times with a rasp and files.

I cannot find the exact ones I originally got in 1998 from ABI but these links give you an idea. They need to be pretty small to fit, like the 4" size, or else the flange will not fit the curve of the cabin sides.

http://www.sailboatstuff.com/cb_Bronze_ ... rnzrndport

http://www.piersupply.com/Item/bronze_r ... portlights

Paul,

Bristol Bronze makes a port light that is an exact fit. I think they are $60 each. Mine are going in next week.

[Mv-typhoon]

Thanks the template would really help let me know. As for the wood I did it almost all by hand. I started with 40 grit on a fairing board stuff can really remove some wood. Sanded with the grain till almost all the gray was out the moved my way up. 80,120,180,220. Try to keep it flat as possible and avoid going deep after imperfections. It will all slowly get filled with varnish and become flat. Adds character to the woodwork. I had a few splits and holes that had to be filled with west system. Once I get the topside buffed floors painted and non skidded she will have a different vibe.