The problems removing my propeller shaft: What a sorry story

[Mike Davis]

When I bought my cd31 last year, the surveyor told me that the cutless bearing should be replaced some time in the future. I decided to change the bearing this year, so I first had to remove the prop shaft.

First I removed the propeller, then the set screws on the stern tube. I sprayed the 4 bolts on the shaft coupling and with very little effort removed them and the two set screws along with some wire that was attached to them.

The next part was loosening up the two large nuts on the stuffing box, which was frozen. With some of your advice, I put pb blaster on it and that too was loosened. I felt I was making progress.

The big problem is the prop shaft is totally frozen on the coupling. A lot of pb blaster was used to no avail. I wanted to press out the shaft by creating a spacer, but there is no room to turn the bolts enough and the space is so limited.

Therefore, as many of you suggested, I am about to cut the shaft behind the coupling with a dremel. The brass is a soft metal and I believe I won't have a problem cutting through it. SHOULD THE SHAFT SLIDE OUT FROM THE STERN TUBE AFTER IT IS CUT?
The tube is 1 inch. I live in Brooklyn, NY and need a good prop shop to fabricate a new tube. Does anyone know of a reputable shop in the NY area that can do this work?
I would like to replace the stuffing box with a dripless one. Any recommendations and model number?
I do want to put this boat in the water soon but I am in a jam. Thanks
Mike Davis

[Mike Davis]

The shaft is bronze

[Ron Churgin]

There is an excellant prop shop in Freeport, not too far from Brooklyn. Lawrence Johnson Machine Works, Inc.
24 Filmore Place
Freeport, NY 11520

Contact Us:
(516) 379-3311
(800) 836-2293
Email: mail.ljmw.com

They do shafts as well. They also have a web site.

[Russell]

I had this same problem, I ended up cutting the shaft. But it did not bother me much as the reason I was removing the shaft was to replace it. I used a sawzaw to cut the bronze, tight space to use it, but it worked.

Why do you need a new stern tube? I put in a new stern tube when I repowered, I just went with a fibreglass one. I dont even want to think of the cost of frabricating a bronze one similar to the origonal.

[Mike Davis]

I don't need a new tube, just a shaft, stuffing box, and coupling. I am not sure which pss dripless stuffing box to order for the cd31

[Ron Churgin]

There is an excellant prop shop in Freeport, not too far from Brooklyn. Lawrence Johnson Machine Works, Inc.
24 Filmore Place
Freeport, NY 11520

Contact Us:
(516) 379-3311
(800) 836-2293
Email: mail.ljmw.com

They do shafts as well. They also have a web site.

[Ron Churgin]

I swear they do not give me a commission

[Ron M.]

you will need 2 od measurements : shaft and stern tube diameters. On my 30 I think the tube is 1-1/2" and 1" for the shaft. Measure to be sure
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[Mike Davis]

The shaft came off today. After inspecting the shaft to coupling, it was frozen on so tight, there was no other way to take off shaft than sawing it off. Now, I need to get the cutless bearing out in order to proceed.

[Markst95]

Sorry for your problems Mike but thanks for the booster shot against 2foot-itis. Whenever I hear about a difficult repair it makes me appreciate my Typhoons simplicity. This year has been especially difficult because one boat away from me is a Bristol 30 for sale for a song...

[Steve Laume]

Whenever I am working on Raven's bottom I always wish for the days of the Typhoon.

I do enjoy working on all the systems of the bigger boat. No matter what size Cape Dory you have there are always going to be some tight places to crawl into and some jobs that are not quite as much fun as others, Steve.

[Capt Hook]

My CD 31 is in the boatyard now and needed a new cutlass bearing.

Same problem. Shaft was frozen on the coupling and they had to cut the shaft to get it out.

[Maine_Buzzard]

Yea, the once a decade agony...

Had good success with deepblueyachtsupply.com out of Tampa for shaft, stuffing box hose, and damn near anything else on that list.

A bronze shaft? Shed no tears, it likely was pitted at the stuffing box.

The cutless can be carefully cut with a Sawzall, stopping before you go all the way through the bronze sleeve. then finish with a hacksaw to make a split lengthwise. Twist with a pair of lineman's pliers and it will spiral in and slide out.

This rotten job is worth doing right once. Don't give up on the stuffing box, it works well and is easier to maintain- Read Mainsail's instructions on repacking. http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box



Significantly easier with the engine out. Don't use regular hose clamps, go for the $6 T bolt stainless clamps.

[Jeff and Sarah]

Glad you got the shaft out. I think one other method you could have tried is to shrink the shaft with dry ice and/or expand the coupling with heat. Never underestimate the power of thermodynamics!