Sail Prices

[Keith]

I was just informed that the UV material on my Yankee is shot and needs to be replaced. It started to tear at the clue the end of last season and they can't repair it. The quote to replace just the UV material is around $500. I also got a quote for a new Yankee with UV material for about $1500. So 33% of the cost of new to repair a sail that is graded as "fair" and is who knows how old. I think I'll just bite the bullet and go for new. I haven't started to shop around yet but I'm looking to see what any one else has paid for their Yankee on a CD30C?

Also the existing Yankee to factory spec is considered a 90% sail due to a Yankee being high cut. If I go with new I was considering going a little bigger maybe 115% or so, still a Yankee. Has any other CD30C owner tried this and if so what was your experience? I have a 150% deck sweeper but that is much to big to be used with a cutter rig. In fact I have never even banked it on. Being a single hander I love the versatility of the three sails.

Awaiting all of the informative replies.

Keith

[Jim Walsh]

I was just informed that the UV material on my Yankee is shot and needs to be replaced. It started to tear at the clue the end of last season and they can't repair it. The quote to replace just the UV material is around $500. I also got a quote for a new Yankee with UV material for about $1500. So 33% of the cost of new to repair a sail that is graded as "fair" and is who knows how old. I think I'll just bite the bullet and go for new. I haven't started to shop around yet but I'm looking to see what any one else has paid for their Yankee on a CD30C?

Also the existing Yankee to factory spec is considered a 90% sail due to a Yankee being high cut. If I go with new I was considering going a little bigger maybe 115% or so, still a Yankee. Has any other CD30C owner tried this and if so what was your experience? I have a 150% deck sweeper but that is much to big to be used with a cutter rig. In fact I have never even banked it on. Being a single hander I love the versatility of the three sails.

Awaiting all of the informative replies.

Keith

I have a CD31 ( a cutter's a cutter) with a standard "high cut" yankee, which provides fantastic visibility, but I also have what Hood describes as a their "large yankee" which has the clew three or four feet closer to the deck. You still have pretty good visibility forward and you have more sail area which makes it useful in less wind. It's a fine older sail which has a superb shape. I carry it mid summer and my high cut yankee in the spring and fall when winds tend to be stronger. I also have a much larger genny which I almost never make use of. It might be of use in areas which have predominantly light winds but I find it almost useless. Luckily a P.O. invested in it, not me.

[Capt Hook]

Keith,

When you say the "UV material" are you referring to the "sail cover" along the foot and leech of the sail?

I recently purchased a CD 31. It didn't have a bimini so I had one made for it. I also replaced the sail covers on the main and the staysail. Now the "sail cover" UV material? on the yankee doesn't match. North told me it runs about $8.50-9 per foot to replace. I'm not sure of the dimensions but I guessed somewhere around $500-750. Interesting to know what a new sail was quoted. I'm not sure what % my yankee is but I'm guessing a good bit above 100%.

[David van den Burgh]

A couple points: Generally it's easier to add a UV cover to a sail under construction since things like the clew are usually pressed through the whole assembly - sailcloth and UV material. Trying to sew around a pressed-in ring and other hardware can be a pain. Factor into the cost of replacing the UV cover the fact that the loft will have to remove your old cover. It's not difficult to do, but it does take time.

On Ariel's new yankee jib, I designed it with a slightly lowered clew, not so much for performance since the old yankee dimensions were fine, but for aesthetics. Now the foot of the yankee is parallel with the staysail foot/boom. There's no reason why you can't tweak the original design to get a bit more sail area. I like the cutter rig the way it was designed, though. Instead of a larger headsail like a genoa, we use a drifter for those light wind days.

My dad humoring me for a photo-op of the new yankee. By the way, I used a lightweight UV resistant cloth for my yankee's UV material rather than heavier Sunbrella, as is often used.

[Steve Laume]

David, your boat is looking sweet all around.

I need a new main more than I do a jib but that one is perfect. Is the clew still in the same fore and aft location? It looks like you just lowered the clew so the sail sets lower without increasing the area all that much. You must actually lose a bit of sail area long the leach. This looks like it would lower your center of effort especially when you begin to furl up some of the sail. One thing that bothers me about the high cut yankee is that it is very hard to reach the clew of the sail. Something as simple as snugging up the leach line becomes a major task.

I had the sun strip re-done on Raven's Yankee with the same sort of fabric. I seem to remember it was 6 or 8 hundred to have it done. I know that is a pretty big range but I try hard to forget these things. Probably more like $600. The jib was still in pretty nice shape so it seemed worthwhile in my case.

I also have a free flying drifter that I use in light air. I used to have a symmetrical spinnaker but now have a light asymmetrical for light air down wind. Raven came with a genoa and a detachable baby stay. I have only had that sail flying twice. It always scares me. Either I can't see what is going on around me or I am worried the wind will pick up during the night and swapping it out of the roller furler would be my nightmare. Both of the down wind sails are in chutes so they are easy to raise and dowse. I see no need for a larger fixed head sail.

I sure would love to have a nice, crispy, new, mainsail, Steve.

[Keith]

Capt Hook,

Yes, the material along the foot and leach. I have the light material as well. It is white not the cape Dory brown heavy sunbrella. Although I'm thinking of going with the brown sunbrella to match my main and staysail covers. The sail maker has pros and cons for both materials making it a toss up and up to the owner preference.

Jim and David,

It appears that both of you have gone with the lower cut Yankee. Do both of yours still come back to the mast, not past the mast? and just have a lower foot which adds a bit more sail area? David that is exactly what the sail maker said about replacing the UV material on an existing sail. The labor to sew the UV material in is free on a new sail you just have to pay for the UV material itself.


Steve,

I'm with you on the height of the clue when furled. Actually my UV protective covering started to rip last summer when the snap shake on the Yankee sheet parted. It was blowing in the 20's that day and I could not get the spinnaker shackle in place as the backup with out getting beat to death by the clue. So I furled the Yankee then the clue was to high to reach. It kept unraveling one turn and that is when the UV covering started to tare.

I have an asymmetrical as well and love it but I have blown it out twice by leaving it up to long. Every time I tell myself I'm an idiot but it is just so much fun to fly that I think to myself I'll pull down the sock if the wind picks up one more kt. The sail maker tells me 12 kts max and I think he is spot on because it blew out both times around 13-14 kts. Hopefully I have learned my lesson and will be smarter next summer.

Thanks to all for the inputs. I'm definitely going to lower the clue like Jim and David have done. The only question now is will I take the clue a bit further aft past the mast. I'll let everyone know what I decide and maybe even some pice new spring.

Keith

[Bibster]

I ran a quote for your sail at the store where I work and got a price of $1589.00 for an offshore-rated, 115% Yankee and $1115.00 for a coastal-rated, 115% Yankee. Both sails come with sun covers, draft stripes, leech/foot lines with cam cleats, telltales and sailbags. The offshore rated sail also has a foam padded luff for improved sail shape when furled.

The store would charge $12 per linear foot (length of the leech plus the length of the foot) to replace the sun cover, which includes the Sunbrella material.

[David van den Burgh]

Jim and David,

It appears that both of you have gone with the lower cut Yankee. Do both of yours still come back to the mast, not past the mast? and just have a lower foot which adds a bit more sail area? David that is exactly what the sail maker said about replacing the UV material on an existing sail. The labor to sew the UV material in is free on a new sail you just have to pay for the UV material itself.

Keith

If you look at the picture closely, you'll see that the clew is aft of the cap shroud by about 16" or so. So, yes, the clew comes just a tad aft of the mast. And yes, the slightly lower clew does add a little bit of extra sail area and lengthen the leech. I only lowered it by about 1', though.

[Keith]

If you look at the picture closely, you'll see that the clew is aft of the cap shroud by about 16" or so. So, yes, the clew comes just a tad aft of the mast. And yes, the slightly lower clew does add a little bit of extra sail area and lengthen the leech. I only lowered it by about 1', though.

Thanks for pointing that out David, I thought that it looked a bit bigger than a standard yankee. So it looks like about 3' past the upper shroud which would also be approximately the center of the mast. Your help is zoning me in on my decision.

thanks again,

Keith

[John Stone]

When we had a new jib made for the Far Reach I wanted the clew high enough that I could see under it when beating. But I wanted it low enough that I could reach the clew to retie the bowlin in the sheet of it ever came undone or rerig the staysail while still powered up under the big jib. For example, Sometimes I'll beat in heavier winds with the staysail sheets run outside the shrouds to the big jib fair leads and back to the primary winches. If I can reach the jib clew then I can set this up while the big jib is still pulling. Once the staysail leads are rerigged I just drop the big jib. The sailmaker and I agreed on six feet. I have been very happy with it so far.

[Keith]

John,

Great idea using 6 foot as the bench mark. As I described earlier that was exactly the problem that I had. I could not reach it because it was to high up.

Thanks,

Keith