I am purchasing a 1981 cape dory 25 this month. The old 9.9 outboard is dead, so I need another. What horsepower should I be looking for? Should I consider a 4 cycle outboard? Any advice would be appreciated.
EvansD@RIDE.RI.NET
outboard for cape dory 25
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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David Brownlee
Re: outboard for cape dory 25
We used to own a CD 25, and we replaced an aged Mercury 9.9 with a Johnson 6. It gave plenty of power (in fact, MORE power than the aged 9.9, I recall) and was much lighter, simpler, and quieter. With it, we abandonned electric start (one less thing to worry about), but the alternator kept 2 batteries charged for lights and radio.
David Brownlee
'Windsrush' CD27
Havre de Grace, MD
dbrownle@mail.sas.upenn.edu
David Brownlee
'Windsrush' CD27
Havre de Grace, MD
dbrownle@mail.sas.upenn.edu
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arenius
Re: outboard for cape dory 25
David Brownlee wrote: We have a CD26 with a four stroke Yamaha Extra Long Skeg
It has been a good strong high thrust outboard, (15 amp alternator)
electric start, 11
arenius@jlab.org
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kevin
Re: outboard for cape dory 25
We have a '79 CD 25 with a Suzuki 5 HP. It's not quite strong enough. A windy day in the harbor can overpower the outboard. I would prefer a bigger motor, unless the Suzuki is known to be low on thrust.arenius wrote:David Brownlee wrote: We have a CD26 with a four stroke Yamaha Extra Long Skeg
It has been a good strong high thrust outboard, (15 amp alternator)
electric start, 11
kevin
kaubuchon@worldnet.att.net
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Dana Arenius
Re: outboard for cape dory 25
We have a Yamaha 9.9HP, four stroke, 25' extra long shaft
outboard for our CD26 for 12 years now. We have found it to
have plenty of thrust both in forward and backing conditions.
Besides the lower RPMs of the four stroke, this sail version engine is
equipped with a 6 inch pitch/11 inch diameter prop. The
prop exhaust is thru the hub center in BOTH directions of
travel which is means you do not ever back into or travel into
your exhaust bubbles. The smaller six inch pitch and larger diameter
prop does, however,allow 6 knot boat speed but with the thrust of a
a 25 HP motor. Remember that HP=Thrust(Force)X Distance
(Pitch X RPM). This design appears to increase thrust force (pitch
and diameter) for slower RPM for a given fixed horsepower. It works.
We get about 18 KM/Gal fuel consumption. There is of course
no oil mixing. It is also equipped with electric start and
15 ampere alternator for the ships batteries. There is less
smoke, vibration, and noise.
The drawbacks we have found are....it weights 10-15 lbs more
(four stroke), the cost is higher, and an initial salt water
corrosion problem after two years. The corrosion was in the
exhaust cooling chamber skeg area. We fixed it by adding a
built-in fresh water flush hose adapter to the engine which allows us to flush the engine
when we come in by quickly connecting the dock hose to the
adapter located near the handle controls (when we think of doing it).
No problems since. We never pull the engine out of the engine well during our
7 month sailing season.
arenius@jlab.org
outboard for our CD26 for 12 years now. We have found it to
have plenty of thrust both in forward and backing conditions.
Besides the lower RPMs of the four stroke, this sail version engine is
equipped with a 6 inch pitch/11 inch diameter prop. The
prop exhaust is thru the hub center in BOTH directions of
travel which is means you do not ever back into or travel into
your exhaust bubbles. The smaller six inch pitch and larger diameter
prop does, however,allow 6 knot boat speed but with the thrust of a
a 25 HP motor. Remember that HP=Thrust(Force)X Distance
(Pitch X RPM). This design appears to increase thrust force (pitch
and diameter) for slower RPM for a given fixed horsepower. It works.
We get about 18 KM/Gal fuel consumption. There is of course
no oil mixing. It is also equipped with electric start and
15 ampere alternator for the ships batteries. There is less
smoke, vibration, and noise.
The drawbacks we have found are....it weights 10-15 lbs more
(four stroke), the cost is higher, and an initial salt water
corrosion problem after two years. The corrosion was in the
exhaust cooling chamber skeg area. We fixed it by adding a
built-in fresh water flush hose adapter to the engine which allows us to flush the engine
when we come in by quickly connecting the dock hose to the
adapter located near the handle controls (when we think of doing it).
No problems since. We never pull the engine out of the engine well during our
7 month sailing season.
arenius@jlab.org