Cabin sole varnish recommendations

[Joe Myerson]

A number of years ago I refinished my 25D's tiny cabin sole with the wonderful product "Ultimate Sole," which is no longer imported from Britain. It had a nice shine to it, and it was absolutely not slippery when wet. I've still got enough of this stuff left--if it hasn't dried up in the cans, for one more application.

When the supplier of this product went out of business, there was talk on this board about using gymnasium floor varnish. I don't remember much about the thread, except that I do remember that school gyms have nice, shiny wood floors (or they used to), and that they were not slippery.

Is that still an option? If not, that Epiphanes sure looks nice.

--Joe

[Cathy Monaghan]

Not all varnishes are meant to be walked on. Use a varnish that was intended for floors. The kind for gym floors would probably be a better choice than the Schooners varnish.

We used Ultimate Sole on our boat's cabin sole. Unfortunately it is no longer available.

[Squid]

Jim Walsh,

As promised.... Some pictures of the cabin sole. As mentioned it requires three coats and I only have two down. I ran out of time. This is the #60 I mentioned in my earlier post. It is not glossy as varnish but much more durable. I intend on doing one more feather out and light sanding then adding two more coats. Admittedly, I wasn't concerned with the gloss inside the cabin as it was showing every imperfection. So far I am pleased with how this is working. I am using the marina's carpenders example as a guide (another boat) so this should blend and feather much better after the final application.

[Jim Walsh]

Jim Walsh,

As promised.... Some pictures of the cabin sole. As mentioned it requires three coats and I only have two down. I ran out of time. This is the #60 I mentioned in my earlier post. It is not glossy as varnish but much more durable. I intend on doing one more feather out and light sanding then adding two more coats. Admittedly, I wasn't concerned with the gloss inside the cabin as it was showing every imperfection. So far I am pleased with how this is working. I am using the marina's carpenders example as a guide (another boat) so this should blend and feather much better after the final application.

Fantastic results, thanks for sharing the photo's.

[distand]

Jim

Was wondering if you proceeded with your cabin sole project and if so what product did you decide on. I am planning to do the galley section this year which is a bit beat up.

Thanks

Don

[Joe Myerson]

In a recent publication, either Good Old Boat or Practical Sailor, I read a feature about using salt as a non-skid. You sprinkle it onto the varnish, wait for things to harden and wash out the salt with water. I don't have any of my magazines handy right now, but it seemed like it would be a nice way of giving some tooth to a cabin sole. (Come to think of it, could have been in Sail or C.W as well, but I think it was one of the first two.

Food for thought.

--Joe

[Jim Walsh]

Jim

Was wondering if you proceeded with your cabin sole project and if so what product did you decide on. I am planning to do the galley section this year which is a bit beat up.

Thanks

Don

Don,
I didn't get to it but it's still on my list. I was dealing with sciatica in the fall and the weather got too cold to take on the project. Once the sciatica started to let up several weeks later I ended up stripping my bottom paint in preparation for applying an epoxy barrier coat in the spring.

[distand]

Ok Jim. Glad to hear your sciatica is better. I think I will try the #60 satin finish that Squid recommends. Thanks to Squid for the info.

Don

[gates_cliff]

i need to replace some of the plain teak plywood that's on an angle to the sole. Anyone have some tips on removing, prep, and installation of new?

I need to refinish the sole, but I think a previous owner liberally sanded and on close inspection I noticed it went through the veneer. I don't look forward to replacing the while thing thoug.

[jbenagh]

As long as the ply is structurally sound, I would sand liberally then get some teak veneer from Boulter Plywood. It has a peel & stick backer which is about as strong as the plywood glue. I have not used the teak but used cherry for a household project.

They also stock a teak/holly sole veneer that you might put over the flat portion. I contemplated that myself a couple years back but opted for just varnish over my somewhat flawed wood.

Jeff

[gates_cliff]

Hmmm, interesting thought. I've never applied veneer before, and trying to picture how much sanding to do, and then how to align. There is a place near me that sells all kinds of specialized lumber, Colonial Hardwoods in Springfield, VA. I've bought teak from them several times and had them make a few things for me, their price for custom milling is, well what you might expect. If and when I get a job back her in the DC area (currently working on a contract in GA). Home this weekend because of the storm, typically when we have any kind of storm with high wind, which is predicted, our power goes out!

Anyway, when I'm here and have the time I'll go over and talk to the folks at Colonial Harswoods and look into that idea.