Cabin sole varnish recommendations

[tartansailor]

Tried and true: PHENOLIC Varnish. Look at your label.
Why? First it has been traditionally the go to finish for absolute top quality varnish.
Inside and out.
In my other life I used to be a Coatings Chemist.
The alternative is an ALIPHATIC urethane, the real expensive 2 component stuff
from an automotive paint house.
Richard

[tjr818]

Tried and true: PHENOLIC Varnish. Look at your label.
Why? First it has been traditionally the go to finish for absolute top quality varnish.
Inside and out.
Richard

Can you recommend a brand name or two?

[M. R. Bober]

Has anyone used this:

http://www.awlgrip.com/literaturecentre ... -ma-eu.pdf

Mitchell Bober
Sunny Lancaster, (Where it's starting to feel like August.) VA

[tartansailor]

Tried and true: PHENOLIC Varnish. Look at your label.
Why? First it has been traditionally the go to finish for absolute top quality varnish.
Inside and out.
Richard

Can you recommend a brand name or two?

I really do not like to make any endorsements, only to suggest that you look at the contents label for phenolic resin being the main component. In the pic below, we used Interlux Schooner 96.

[Paul D.]

I'm considering this project for a later date so I have been looking into different options. For years though I have had a full "berth to berth" carpet I made for Femme, complete with under padding, as it gets downright cold on your feet up here in Lake Superiorland. The unfinished teak and holly sole beneath - I believe it was only oiled - however looks dull and aged and is in bad need of a cleaning.

It is good to see all these comments. In thinking about how I would finish the cabin sole I think I would second the Epiphanes route.

We built some custom cabinets in my other life for a summer camp locker application. There was a large flat area on top of some of them that we put five coats of Epiphanies high gloss on. It was used heavily for everything from desk work, map viewing, wilderness canoe trip gear organization standing upon to get stuff down from the rafters, metal milk crate storage to things I wouldn't really want to think of happening after dark. The camp staff were not kind to it. I was very impressed with how it held up. So much so that several years later I covered my cedar strip canoe with a few coats of Epiphanes. It is tough stuff and I like the idea of flattening it down somehow for the final few coats as I would not want a high gloss cabin sole.

I think it takes a little getting used to the brush technique but once you do, it flows on well, sticks well and looks excellent.

[joemerchant]

Many years ago we used to use Sterling two-part linear Polyurethane clear on every bit of the wood on the Cherubini 44 except for the decks. The stuff was rock solid and never had issues with it flaking. I don't see it around much anymore and awlgrip has pretty much taken that space, but it was good stuff. I am not sure about using Epifanes as it is pretty soft. It is what I use on the brightwork, but probably would not use it on the sole. We are about to replace the soles on our Cape Dory before we sell the boat and will most-likely use a two-part.

[Paul D.]

After reading the last post I'd go with the guy who was working on the Cherubini! I am sure those guys put a lot of thought into every coating they used for the specific purpose. Those are absolutely beautiful, well-made boats.

[tjr818]

Many years ago we used to use Sterling two-part linear Polyurethane clear on every bit of the wood on the Cherubini 44 except for the decks. The stuff was rock solid and never had issues with it flaking. I don't see it around much anymore and awlgrip has pretty much taken that space, but it was good stuff. . . .

It seems as though it is still available. Here is a link: https://www.fgci.com/default.aspx

joemerchant, is that the same product you mentioned?

[Steve Darwin]

Years ago I sailed on a CD31 with a fellow whose wife cared for the cabin sole and maintained it to a high shine, hand-buffed wax, no less, and boy, was it slippery... dangerously so, in fact!

Question: Were CD soles waxed or oiled when delivered from the factory, or left unfinished?

Scrubbing the sole clean can make a huge difference in appearance. Maybe get down there with a holystone, if you want to clean it the old-fashioned way?

I believe that the wooden sailing yachts from Herreshoff Manufacturing and Concordia, for example, usually had unfinished (and unoiled) teak soles. You don't put a finish on a teak deck, so why would you do that below deck?

Is the CD sole veneer so delicate that it needs protection, or is this only a matter of aesthetics?

[Jim Walsh]

It's veneer.

[Jim Evans]

Back in 2009, I replaced my cabin floor, using solid teak and holly, 1/4" thick over 3/4" marine ply. I coated the floor with Epiphanes Clear gloss varnish, and I've been very happy with the durability and appearance. It's held up very well, and I don't find it slippery at all. My most previous recoating was done about 4 years ago - I just took this photo the other day. I have to replace the rest of the cabin sole - next piece will be the most aft piece by the galley.

I use Epiphanes Satin varnish everywhere else down below (except around the hatch trim which is exposed to the elements)

[Jim Walsh]

Back in 2009, I replaced my cabin floor, using solid teak and holly, 1/4" thick over 3/4" marine ply. I coated the floor with Epiphanes Clear gloss varnish, and I've been very happy with the durability and appearance. It's held up very well, and I don't find it slippery at all. My most previous recoating was done about 4 years ago - I just took this photo the other day. I have to replace the rest of the cabin sole - next piece will be the most aft piece by the galley.

I use Epiphanes Satin varnish everywhere else down below (except around the hatch trim which is exposed to the elements)

That's stunning Fantastic job.

[Squid]

I can share with you what I have done... For what it's worth... When I got the boat the previous owner used gloss varnish... It was a pain the the rear and NOT durable. I followed the advise of our Marina's master carpenter (we happen to have an ace boat woodworker) and he uses Interlux Goldspar Satin (#60). It's a satin sheen polyurethane varnish for interiors... So far MUCH better and much more durable.
I cleaned up the old varnish (smooth sand, not removal) and placed two coats down over it, and it's worked very well so far. It's a bit toxic so wear a mask. I plan on adding two more coats at the end of next winter which I think should do it well...
Best of luck.

[Jim Walsh]

I can share with you what I have done... For what it's worth... When I got the boat the previous owner used gloss varnish... It was a pain the the rear and NOT durable. I followed the advise of our Marina's master carpenter (we happen to have an ace boat woodworker) and he uses Interlux Goldspar Satin (#60). It's a satin sheen polyurethane varnish for interiors... So far MUCH better and much more durable.
I cleaned up the old varnish (smooth sand, not removal) and placed two coats down over it, and it's worked very well so far. It's a bit toxic so wear a mask. I plan on adding two more coats at the end of next winter which I think should do it well...
Best of luck.

You wouldn't happen to have a photo, would you?

[Squid]

I will take some pictures next weekend and provide