CD Typhoon hull ball valve problems.

[Sailing4ever]

Looking for guidance on a Cape Dory Typhoon and 2 stuck (I think?) ball valves. I have a 1984 CD Typhoon and just put it in the water. I was trying to close the ball valves (no seacocks) on this boat, but they don't turn at all. I tried turning them firmly and they still didn't move. Reading several posts, I guess they could be clogged with dirt, leaves, etc. My questions are:

(1) If I break the ball valve(s) trying to close or open them, can I buy new ones and (or new parts to repair) where do I get them? Can this cause damage to the hull opening?

(2) How can I go about determining whether the valves are the problem, or if they are just clogged with debris?

(3) Should I take the boat out of the water to try to troubleshoot and/or repair these?

(4) Where can I get a detailed sketch on how these valves come apart and get re-assembled?

I greatly appreciate any thoughts and guidance anyone can provide. Thanks

Tim OHara
tlohara@verizon.net

[ariasis]

Ball valve.? Do you have a picture. Here are how mine work. http://bristol-blue.blogspot.com/2014/0 ... d-brr.html

I have never had mine freeze up. There is a grease erk on them you can open and spray some lubricant into. I would not take them apart in the water with out having a plug near by I can guarantee water will come back up through them.

[Dick Villamil]

When I bought my Typhoon the ball valves and hoses were completely plugged - causing the cockpit to fill with water during the long storage period before I bought it. I finally replaced them along with the hoses - has to be done out of the water. You should try to use a snake out of a relatively stiff wire - #14 gauge single strand wire with insulation and tape over the cut end. Pre-bend the wire since it needs to make a U turn. Also use a toilet plunger to help loosen any debris. The hoses make a tight turn resulting is an easy plugging. You certainly want these to drain or the cockpit will fill with water - or worse! I never close mine since it is the only way to allow water to drain out of the self-bailing cockpit.

[ariasis]

I close mine under way. Once I get 3-4 people on board water will come back up through mine. Guess we are just a heavy crew. Always leave them open at the dock when I leave so the cockpit drains.

[Sailing4ever]

Thanks to everyone - lots of good suggestions to follow up.

Does anyone know where to get new ball valves and/or parts to repair the present ones? Thanks.

Tim

[ariasis]

I would try wolfs marine in Benton harbor, Michigan I think I saw a set sitting on his shelf in the back a year ago.

[Paul D.]

Tim,

Here is what I wrote someone on the board 15 years ago after I replaced my gate valves on our Typhoon.

CRAIG,
SORRY BUT MY KEYBOARD PACKED IT UP SO I HAVE TO USE CAPS. I REPLACED THE GATE VALVES ON MY '76 TYPHOON WITH APOLLO BALL VALVES, A MOST SATISFACTORY OPTION AND INEXPENSIVE. I RECEIVED EXCELLENT HELP FROM THIS SITE. THE BASIC PARTS ARE ALL AVAILABLE AT A PLUMBING SHOP OR WEST MARINE. SAVE THE OLD BRONZE THROUGH HULLS ADD A 3/4 BRONZE APOLLO BALL VALVE, 45 DEGREE ANGLE, ADAPTER TO HOSE FITTING AND PROPER HOSE TO MAKE A NICE CURVE TO THE COCKPIT DRAINS. NOW I CAN DRAIN PINE NEEDLES AND A FLICK OF THE WRIST SHUTS THEM OFF FOR WHEN I HAVE MORE THAN FOUR FOLKS ABOARD. IT ALL FITS RATHER NICE BUT YOU HAVE TOPLAY WITH IT A BIT. EMAIL ME IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS. ALSO DO A SEARCH UNDER TYPHOON ON THIS SITE TO SEE IF YOU CAN GET THE PART NUMBERS.

ALL THE BEST,
PAUL DANICIC
#1178 HORNET
MPLS

I would go through a couple steps before going ahead and replacing. Blast the drain holes with a strong garden hose spray. You might need to do it up through the bottom while it is on the hard. Try the snake as suggested. Hit the valves with a bit of PB Blast or WD40.

If you choose to replace, you could search the board for a '98 post which had the exact parts I used above, very helpful.

[Sailing4ever]

Hi Paul,

Thanks for the information. I plan on trying your cleaning suggestions this weekend. I'm trying to avoid taking the boat out of the water until early November - so I'm hoping I can clear the drains and still be able to close them when needed.

If you can find your old post it would be very helpful to me. Also, where do you get the appollo valves? Thanks.

Tim OHara

[Sailing4ever]

Hello everyone. I'm still working on the best way to repair the hull ball valves on my 1984 CD Typhoon. I believe the bronze valves are completely corroded because I'm not able to get either one to move at all. I'm also reluctant to really use a lot of force/leverage and break something with the boat still in the water.

After snaking each cockpit drain and using a plunger to break up some of the debris, I don't think the boat is in danger of flooding and sinking in the present condition.

Not wanting to temp fate, however, I've decided to haul the boat out sometime in September and change the valves.

I've been looking at the sources for replacement parts on the CDSOA site. Does anyone have any recommendations on what to use and where to buy the valves?

Also, I'm intrigued by the Forespar, Marelon valves. (www. forespar.com) These valves are composite (i.e. plastic) and claim to never corrode or bind up. Forespar has sales help who seem to be knowledgeable about the valve's application. Also, the parts are less expensive than bronze and, I expect, would last longer. Durability is another question.

One question: Does anyone know the id of the hoses connecting the cockpit drains to the valves? Since I cannot take the hoses off (boat is still in the water!, and I don't know if the valves are closed) I can't measure the id. If anyone has an educated guess on the hose id. can you please respond to this post? Thanks.

I'm also interested in other opinions from people who have made these repairs in the past. I appreciate any comments and/or suggestions.

Tim OHara (tlohara@verizon.net)

[s2sailorlis]

Marelon valves can seize as well. They need to be exercised regularly or they can seize to the point where they need replacement. I've had boats with ball valves, marelon, and spartan bronze.

I believe the btonze spartns to be the best. They last many years and can be refurbished...

Hello everyone. I'm still working on the best way to repair the hull ball valves on my 1984 CD Typhoon. I believe the bronze valves are completely corroded because I'm not able to get either one to move at all. I'm also reluctant to really use a lot of force/leverage and break something with the boat still in the water.

After snaking each cockpit drain and using a plunger to break up some of the debris, I don't think the boat is in danger of flooding and sinking in the present condition.

Not wanting to temp fate, however, I've decided to haul the boat out sometime in September and change the valves.

I've been looking at the sources for replacement parts on the CDSOA site. Does anyone have any recommendations on what to use and where to buy the valves?

Also, I'm intrigued by the Forespar, Marelon valves. (www. forespar.com) These valves are composite (i.e. plastic) and claim to never corrode or bind up. Forespar has sales help who seem to be knowledgeable about the valve's application. Also, the parts are less expensive than bronze and, I expect, would last longer. Durability is another question.

One question: Does anyone know the id of the hoses connecting the cockpit drains to the valves? Since I cannot take the hoses off (boat is still in the water!, and I don't know if the valves are closed) I can't measure the id. If anyone has an educated guess on the hose id. can you please respond to this post? Thanks.

I'm also interested in other opinions from people who have made these repairs in the past. I appreciate any comments and/or suggestions.

Tim OHara (tlohara@verizon.net)

[casampson]

If you do a search, you'll find many threads on the subject of seacocks, gate valves, ball valves, and other options. I decided to replace the old rotting gate valves on my Typhoon two summers ago, just after I bought the boat. It delayed my launch by a week, but I felt it was important. I went with bronze seacocks, which I purchased from Jamestown Distributors for about $150 each. They went in easily enough. Taking out the old valves was the real problem. I salvaged the old through-hulls and saved a bit of money there.

The hoses are a problem. As far as I know, you won't be able to replace them with identical hoses, which are bent and reinforced and made to fit. I had to cut them off, so they couldn't be reused. Nobody makes them any more. All of the hoses I tried to get in there kinked. I ended up using 1-inch clear braided hose, which did not kink as badly as some of the others I tried. If you come up with a better solution for the hoses, please share it.

Best of luck.

[Markst95]

Not to start a debate again but --- going on 7 years without a problem!



Marelon 1 1/4" Thru-hulls with Sanitation hose. Larger size and no big turns- they drain GREAT!!!

[Skeep]

Markst, that is such a beautiful below decks view! But you have no way to close them? If you take a large cocktail party out, will you not encounter water into the cockpit? Otherwise, kudos on the twists and turns. I was not able to coerce my white hoses to the degree of artistry you have achieved.

[Markst95]

If you take a large cocktail party out, will you not encounter water into the cockpit? Otherwise, kudos on the twists and turns.

Couple of Rubber Stoppers on the drains does the trick-