So I am attempting to get my boat ready for the water, but needed some assistance regarding the tiller on my 1971 Typhoon Weekender. Last season there was significant "play" between the tiller and the rudder post.
When I went to investigate this weekend, I found the following. After taking off the tiller, there was a mount on the rudder post. That mount was secured with a screw in the front, and there was also a nut and bolt securing the back.
When I took off the mount, I observed that there was a dimple that appeared to have been worn into the rudder post by the screw in the front. Otherwise there was not anything keeping the tiller in place on the rudder. Based on these observations, I put everything back and attempted to tighten the nut and bolt on the rear as tight as I could and the same with the screw in the front.
This is where I went drastically wrong. Not thinking about the relative strength of the stainless steel screw versus the bronze mount, I over-tightened the screw and carved out some of the bronze. Additionally, as can been seen in the photo I took of the mount, there was a slit in the rear where the nut and bolt were removed from, which was clearly designed to add tension, but over time that slit has appeared to have narrowed and it no longer adds any tension.
Given all of this, does anyone have any suggestions on the best was to make sure the tiller and the rudder are as securely fastened as possible? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Older Typhoon Tiller Issues
Moderator: Jim Walsh
Older Typhoon Tiller Issues
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Oswego John
- Posts: 3535
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
- Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1
Re: Older Typhoon Tiller Issues
J Risler
There are several things that you can do to firmly lock the tiller to the rudder post.
The screw in the front of the tiller mount is designed, on purpose, to align the tiller with the rudder blade. When positioned with the point of the screw seated in the dimple on the front of the post, not only does it maintain the alignment of the tiller to the blade but it prevents the tiller mount to lift and jump off of the rudder post.
I noticed in one of your pictures that there was too much play between the tiller mount and the upper post which resulted in gouging of the post. Everything at that juncture should be snug with no play at all. The pointed screw in the dimple on the post helps to prevent any sloppiness in the connection.
As to the gap at the rear, one thing that can be done is to bring the tiller mount to a machine or welding shop. The bronze is malleable to a point. Be careful, if it snaps, replacement can be expensive if you can find one.
What I have done in the past was to mike (micrometer) the diameter of the post. Lock a short piece of pipe which is the same diameter as the rudder post or slightly narrower. If narrower than the post, wrap shim stock around the pipe to fairly equal the diameter of the pipe and post. Slide the mount over the pipe and c-clamp it to the pipe at the widest spots of the mount.
The welding shop will have the facility to properly heat the ears with the holes in them at the aft side of the mount. I have used an oxyacetylene torch, even a Mapp gas torch, to heat the metal. The welding shop will use special crayons to test the temperature of the heated bronze. When the metal is at the correct temperature, the crayon will melt
A wedge is inserted from the rear of the crack and tapped into the crack to give more clearance for tightening the mount to the post. Only the ears are widened, not the round part around the pipe/rudder post.
I also noticed that the hole in the mount that directly contacts the rudder post seems to be worn away more in the aft end than in the front. ???
BTW, nice pictures. They tell a lot.
Good luck. Let us know how you made out. Your info will be appreciated by other owners.
O J
There are several things that you can do to firmly lock the tiller to the rudder post.
The screw in the front of the tiller mount is designed, on purpose, to align the tiller with the rudder blade. When positioned with the point of the screw seated in the dimple on the front of the post, not only does it maintain the alignment of the tiller to the blade but it prevents the tiller mount to lift and jump off of the rudder post.
I noticed in one of your pictures that there was too much play between the tiller mount and the upper post which resulted in gouging of the post. Everything at that juncture should be snug with no play at all. The pointed screw in the dimple on the post helps to prevent any sloppiness in the connection.
As to the gap at the rear, one thing that can be done is to bring the tiller mount to a machine or welding shop. The bronze is malleable to a point. Be careful, if it snaps, replacement can be expensive if you can find one.
What I have done in the past was to mike (micrometer) the diameter of the post. Lock a short piece of pipe which is the same diameter as the rudder post or slightly narrower. If narrower than the post, wrap shim stock around the pipe to fairly equal the diameter of the pipe and post. Slide the mount over the pipe and c-clamp it to the pipe at the widest spots of the mount.
The welding shop will have the facility to properly heat the ears with the holes in them at the aft side of the mount. I have used an oxyacetylene torch, even a Mapp gas torch, to heat the metal. The welding shop will use special crayons to test the temperature of the heated bronze. When the metal is at the correct temperature, the crayon will melt
A wedge is inserted from the rear of the crack and tapped into the crack to give more clearance for tightening the mount to the post. Only the ears are widened, not the round part around the pipe/rudder post.
I also noticed that the hole in the mount that directly contacts the rudder post seems to be worn away more in the aft end than in the front. ???
BTW, nice pictures. They tell a lot.
Good luck. Let us know how you made out. Your info will be appreciated by other owners.
O J
"If I rest, I rust"
Voting Member #490
Voting Member #490