seacocks

[Jim Stull]

We are somewhat more than halfway thru a major upgrade of our '75 CD25.
We are about to order real seacocks to replace the simple ball valves our old CD25's had used.

Question:
Currently the old bilge pump discharges out a 3/4" thruhull with no valve of any kind fitted.
I don't wish to make a stupid mistake but shouldn't this also have a seacock fitted? Without one, would not working on the pump and hoses be a problem when afloat?
BTW we much appreciate all the help we have received from this group during our project.



jtstull@icubed.com

[Duncan Maio]

Question:
Currently the old bilge pump discharges out a 3/4" thruhull with no valve of any kind fitted.
I don't wish to make a stupid mistake but shouldn't this also have a seacock fitted? Without one, would not working on the pump and hoses be a problem when afloat?

Jim:

The bilge pump should discharge above the waterline, so no seacock is needed. If the current discharge is, in fact, below the waterline, my suggestion would be to plug it and relocte the discharge thru-hull.

-Duncan Maio



dmaio@worldnet.att.net

[Russell Cooper]

Speaking from experience, you do need a seacock if there's a chance thru-hull will be below the waterline when heeled. I have a CD27 with the bilge pump thru hull approx half way from WL to gun'l just forward of transom. When I purchased boat, there was no seacock.

One day sailing, the hose over the thru hull partially ripped. I was not aware until I had returned to slip + noticed full bilge! (manual bilge pump currently) Fitting was well below waterline when sailing on stbd tack. Have since installed a marelon valve (by Forespar I believe); I prefer bronze for below true waterline, but for this application marelon is plenty strong and durable in my opinion (and of course less $). Good luck completing overhaul.

We are somewhat more than halfway thru a major upgrade of our '75 CD25.
We are about to order real seacocks to replace the simple ball valves our old CD25's had used.

Question:
Currently the old bilge pump discharges out a 3/4" thruhull with no valve of any kind fitted.
I don't wish to make a stupid mistake but shouldn't this also have a seacock fitted? Without one, would not working on the pump and hoses be a problem when afloat?
BTW we much appreciate all the help we have received from this group during our project.

rcoope01@railtex.com

[Jim Stull]

Speaking from experience, you do need a seacock if there's a chance thru-hull will be below the waterline when heeled. I have a CD27 with the bilge pump thru hull approx half way from WL to gun'l just forward of transom. When I purchased boat, there was no seacock.

One day sailing, the hose over the thru hull partially ripped. I was not aware until I had returned to slip + noticed full bilge! (manual bilge pump currently) Fitting was well below waterline when sailing on stbd tack. Have since installed a marelon valve (by Forespar I believe); I prefer bronze for below true waterline, but for this application marelon is plenty strong and durable in my opinion (and of course less $). Good luck completing overhaul.

Russell
We appreciate hearing of your experience.
On my CD25 the thru hull is definitly below the waterline. I will add a seacock.
Thanks
Jim

We are somewhat more than halfway thru a major upgrade of our '75 CD25.
We are about to order real seacocks to replace the simple ball valves our old CD25's had used.

Question:
Currently the old bilge pump discharges out a 3/4" thruhull with no valve of any kind fitted.
I don't wish to make a stupid mistake but shouldn't this also have a seacock fitted? Without one, would not working on the pump and hoses be a problem when afloat?
BTW we much appreciate all the help we have received from this group during our project.

jtstull@icubed.com

[Bob Loewenstein]

the most fun is doing all this work then getting to see if it leaks

After lapping one of my seacocks, I tested for leaks by getting a water hose, holding it up to the through hull and fired away with the seacock closed (a rag around the nozzle helped me to keep dry). I could not get the thing to stop leaking. I must have lapped 3 or 4 separate times, but never got the leak to quit. Inspecting the cone, I saw that it was not plane, but had some curvature to its surface. I suspect that either I must turn it down, or replace the whole seacock.



rfl@yerkes.uchicago.edu