Teak oil, Deks Olje, or Cetol?

[Northstar1014]

Hi all,

I am going to be doing something to spruce up my exterior teak this spring, just not sure what is best. As of now, the wood has been been allowed to weather to silver grey.

I love the varnish look, but have decided its just too high maintenance -- I'd rather sail than varnish.

I like with the simplicity of teak oil, but am discouraged by reports of most products blackening or getting dirty. Further research has pointed me towards Deks Olje and/or Cetol Natural teak +/- Cetol gloss. I am torn over what to do. (I am of course expecting whatever I choose will need yearly touchups, potentially a few additional coats). Anyone feel strongly one way or the other?

Ted

[Sea Hunt Video]

Ted:

Three (3) coats Cetol Marine Natural Teak then two (2) coats Cetol Clear Gloss. Easy to apply; easy to touch up; looks very good (not great but very good).

[Squid]

Roberto's comments are good and one of the options..

I have, in the past, used Epi's, just one of the options.

This winter I reviewed the two below conversations and will try Awlspar with a Cetol Gloss two coat finish... (read the first article).
On the toe rail which seems to give me particular issues with lifting I am going to use the two coat CPES method and then Awlspar with two coats of Cetol Gloss... I did verify with several phone calls the ability to varnish over CPES and also the compatibility of Cetol Gloss over varnish which is supposed to work (second article). I am going to verify on a test piece of teak and then dive in.... My theory.... If this works it will be a ton of work up front but easier to maintain than what I have been doing each spring.

Other option is the Cetol (two part system)... and cover with Cetol Gloss as Roberto suggested... Not as perfect but pretty good and easier. All depends on your threshold of pain...

http://varnishteak.blogspot.com/2013/12 ... shing.html

http://www.smithandcompany.org/varnishpriming.html

Hope this helps... If your teak is dry (greyed) MAKE SURE it's clean first... i.e. no mildew or stain...

[Jim Walsh]

I agree with Roberto, but I used the Cetol Marine Light.

[tjr818]

Call me a Slacker, but if Slainte's teak had been silver when we bought it would have stayed silver
Five years and six quarts of Cetol later her teak looks wonderful. Natural teak followed by gloss, all applied by a very patient and loving 1st Mate. She's not a slacker and Slainte looks better because of her. However, if it was up to me ....

[Sandy D.]

While staining my deck at home it dawned on me that the product I had been using for years at home
should perform well on the boat as well......Cabot's Australian Timber Oil ( http://www.cabotstain.com/products/prod ... r-Oil.html)

I apply it with an inexpensive bristle chip brush - a quick rub with an old t-shirt - and a quick clean up with some mineral spirits.
It doesn't take me any longer than if I used "teak oil" and I get a good 3-4 months of service before I should re-apply.

Two coats gives me a beautiful satin finish. Up to now I have only used it on the toe/rub rail and the cabin top grab rails. My coaming boards are still varnished so I'm not sure how this product would work with direct contact with crew.

-Sandy

[Warren Kaplan]

About 3 years ago I bit the bullet and took off all the years of accumulated original Cetol. I didn't like the "orangey" color.
After sanding and cleaning the wood I decided to go with Cetol Natural and then Cetol gloss.
The best decision I ever made. Cetol lasts quite well and the natural looks great, especially if you take the time to prepare the underlying teak. Everyone knows that with just about ANY cosmetic job, its preparation, preparation, preparation that makes all the difference.

I put on 3 coats of Cetol Natural. Then 3 coats of Cetol gloss.
Now each year all I have to do is put on a single coat of cetol gloss and the boat looks great all year.
Sure, you have to take care of the pesky beat up spots where somebody dropped a hammer accidentally...but that's required with any finish.

If you take the time to prepare the underlying teak, and that teak looks in good shape after you do that, I'd opt for Cetol Natural and then cetol gloss (if you like the glossy look!)

[Northstar1014]

Thanks all, this seems like great advice.

Cetol + gloss it is for the cockpit --- for the toerail, I may use Deks Olje as a friend has done this with apparent success.

Best,

Ted

[Sea Hunt Video]

Ted:

I know you are reasonably new to the board so are probably not aware of the one of the more arcane rules of Cape Dory ownership.

When owners are going to use two (2) different teak products on exterior teak thus resulting in the likelihood of two (2) different teak colors/finishes, they are required to obtain the approval of 75% of active membership of the CDSOA.

Do you have that 75% No Oh, too bad. Well, that's OK. No worries. You can try to obtain the required vote at the next annual meeting of the CDSOA. Check with our current commodore for the date and location.

When all is said and done, our Cape Dory sailboats are works of art. My 2nd cousin Leonardo DaVinci would not approve of two (2) different exterior teak colors.

Or you can apply three (3) coats Cetol Marine Natural Teak; two (2) coats Clear Gloss. Think of the toe rail Cetol work as "practice" for the cockpit teak. Or, you can work on getting that 75% vote. My vote will be "NO".

I close with the following:

[tjr818]

If you are adept at trompe l'oeil techniques you might be able to get away with it. . . As long as " The Committee" a.k.a. Robert, does not get too close. Or you could enlist the support of all those who lock their props.

[tjr818]

Or . . . has anyone tried this product or heard of it? Penknife Verde. http://www.penofin.com/pdf/ds/DS-verde.pdf
I am getting reports from the PNW that is is performing well on teak.

[Northstar1014]

Oh boy I've started a varnish war!
Thanks all

[Dick Kobayashi]

I know this is heresy to some, but I never treat my teak. It was a lovely silver grey when I bought the boat in 2001 and remains so. Hundreds of of hours of labor avoided over the years.

I recommend "nothing"

I must confess I do apply teak oil to my hatchboards though, a twenty minute job annually.

[M. R. Bober]

To make varnish vanish, simply remove the "r."

Mitchell Bober
Sunny Lancaster, (Where we have enough space to Cetol of you comfortably.) VA

[Northstar1014]

I'm going with teak oil