CD30 bilge pump access

[John M.Sullivan]

My CD30 (1983) has what appears to be an excellent and so far reliable bilge pump stationed immediately forward of the companion way ladder in the center of the teak and holly salon sole. There is a beautifully crafted 12x12" access plate which I can lift up easily to see the beast looking aft toward to engine in the deepest part of the bilge. Looks great, works great. BUT what will I do if a wire connection gets loose or the unit fails when out cruising, for example.... or even at the dock ... and needs to be replaced. I'd like to install a secondary back-up (new one). So how do I get to it... or the space in which it was installed ???? I can see it with a flashlight and a mirror, but I can't touch it. There must be some route of access from a side cabinet perhaps? I don't like the idea of cutting a second square in my beautiful floor which could be directly above it for easy access and checking. I am not in contact with the previous owner. Any CD30 owners on the board that could straighten me out on this quixotic mystery? Cape Dory must have seen this in planning the boat's design.no? What am I missing here? Thanks in advance for any insights.
- John Sullivan

[moctrams]

I just understand why folks with deep bilges insist on installing a pump to go down into that hole. I have installed several of these remote mounted pumps with a hose that goes down into the bilge. Much easier to maintain too.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IV ... UTF8&psc=1

[Maine_Buzzard]

Guppy arrived with a slightly different condition. A diaphragm pump sits aft the batteries, and there is a manual Edson pump in the port locker, with the handle opening near the tiller.



This arrangement has since been modified to better protect the hoses and drive belt.

I've hung the two pickups (with modified strum boxes) and the float switch on a stainless bracket that is bolted to the face of the engine tray. Various pieces keep the float switch centered and away from hoses.

A smaller topside pump is an option.

[Jim Walsh]

Do you have a float switch installed?

[Jack.Ducas]

There must be a hose connected to the pump in which the water from the bilge is pumped overboard. Might you be able to pull this hose up far enough to lift the pump from the lowest part of the bilge to the next level of the bilge at where you can grab the hose and pump with a boat hook then pull it forward enough to access it for maintence?

[adamganz]

My CD28 has a similarly difficult to access bilge/bilge pump. I don't recommend my solution in any way other than it was quick. I attached the pump/float combination to an aluminum bar (2" X 1/8" X 30 or so), lowered the pump into the bilge from behind the stairs just in front of the engine, and screwed the bar to the back of the teak. I had to come up with something quick the night before I launched the boat and this was what I came up with. If I had had more time, I would probably use a float with a separate pump and locate the pump in an easier to access location.

Adam
CD28

[moctrams]

This is the best bilge pump switch I have ever run across. They are practically indestructible and they only pump when water is detected, not oil or diesel. Replacing float switches has earned me a lot of money over the years.

http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?pa ... &id=161764

[jbenagh]

I installed a Rule pump on my CD30 this spring using a bracket fashioned after something I read here. It has worked well this season for keeping the bilge dry but the automatic feature of the pump hasn't worked well; it keeps running once empty which would run down the battery if kept on.

The bracket is the PVC "wood" for exterior trim. I picked up the angle of the upper bilge to the vertical part of the sump and cut it to match (about 12 degrees, I think). I PVC glued and screwed it with bronze wood screws. The pump, hose and wires are attached with cable ties. The pump comes with long wires so the splices are just under the regular access hatch in the sole. I can pull the pump out by pulling the whole bracket out although that probably requires disconnecting the hose at the anti-siphon valve and re-threading it. I had wanted to install the pump rotated 90 degrees (so the outlet would be on the left) but the bilge sump is too narrow for that by about half an inch.

[Subi-2's Day]

jbenagh, your picture is interesting but how do you get that down into the bilge? On our CD30 there isn't enough room between the engine area and cabin sole. Were you able to get that all down through the bilge access plate area?

Ed

[jbenagh]

Ed,

it was possible to get it into the bilge but it is a real tight fit. It takes some careful twisting and turning and the horizontal piece on the top of the lead can't be too long (unfortunately I did not measure that piece but it ends about 8-12 inches aft of the hatch in the cabin sole). Fortunately the CD30 bilge is pretty wide on top of the lead and the contraption fit in sideways for the initial part of the journey.

My first attempt at measuring was to take some 3/4 square wood stock rigged up to swing to measure the depth of the sump. I marked inches on the sump part and took a photo to capture the depth measurement. I also carefully measured the angle of the sump vertical wall to the top of the lead. I played aroud with getting the bracket into the bilge first and then slowly added components because I wasn't sure it would fit. I rigged up all the plumbing and wiring before "sending it below" but I did try immediately bringing it back up because I didn't want it stuck down there. I'm sure there were some other details I forgot so feel free to ask about anything specific.

Jeff