CD 26 Brought Back to Life

[swhfire21]

I acquired a not so well maintained CD 26 back in December in the middle of the first big snow storm of the year. I believe the PO just did not have the skills, time or money (boat was chained to the dock by the marina) to keep her up; so she was a real mess (the price was right).

My son (really glad dad's project is done for the year) and I spent most every weekend all winter working on her. This year's efforts were focused on getting her back to a seaworthy state and livable down below for some overnighting. She has some mosit core issues which I have "scabbed" over and made repairs as needed to stop further water intrusion (hoping to do fiberglass work next winter).

Here's a list of the repairs/improvements and some photos:
o Plumbing:
 Replaced all waste and grey water drain hoses, hose clamps and vented loop and tank vent hose
 Cleaned holding tank (frozen and full of __it)
 Replaced head inlet water strainer and hose
 Installed new head (dropped and broke original)
o Electrical/Instrumentation:
 Installed shore power connection;
 Wired in heavy duty, wet area extension cord to main cabin with chafe protection.
 Added GFI to shore connection (Home Depot about 1/3 cost of marine stores, same for adaptor)
 Wired double insulated battery charger/maintainer to battery
 Installed new Raymarine i40 depth finder and through hull transducer (Pulling boat to reseat transducer after memorial day due to slight leak)
 Removed broken mast antenna and wiring. Replaced with hand held VHF (small bay sailing only)
o Outboard motor (Tohatsu 9.8):
 Removed 1 to 1-1/2 in. of marine growth (easier than I thought it would be)
 Replaced shaft casing extension (electrolysis/freeze damage)
 Replaced zinc/trim tab (totally eaten away)
 Replaced entire water pump assembly
 Replaced lower unit gear oil & top of casing (electrolysis damage)
 Replaced carburetor (new) after two filed attempts to clear low speed passages
 Rebuilt fuel pump
 Replaced spark plugs
 Replaced thermostat
 Replaced fuel filter
 Replaced thrust bearing (electrolysis damage)
 Cleaned gas cans (2 year old gas of various colors)
 Changed oil
o Interior:
 Vacuumed and wiped down entire interior and all compartments from bow to stern.
 Bleached bilge and multiple interior surfaces at least three times to remove stench from permeated/leaking waste hoses.
 Painted wood inside compartments/spaces containing waste hoses to seal in odor.
 Replaced opening window gaskets w/ ½ round epdm foam.
 Washed curtains
 Cleaned and deodorized all cushions - left them air out in garage all winter and walked all over them (squishing them) every one-two weeks, used carpet machine
o Exterior:
 Lifted and re-bedded companionway hatch, teak slides and storm cover.
 Re-bedded bow pulpit, bow cleats, cockpit winches,
 Straightened bent lifeline stanchion
 Made a replacement hawser pipe cap (CPVC ) until a bronze replacement can be found
 Removed remnants of varnish from teak then cleaned, brightened and oiled it
 Fabricated a vinyl board cover to seal a area of compromised deck fiberglass (about 12” X 18”) - Looks like failed attempt to address a water intrusion issue (permanent repairs next winter)
 Gouged out (dremel tool) multiple hair line cracks in non-skid areas and filled with Marine-Tex (permanent repairs next winter)
 Removed leaking deck glands (mast wiring), gouged out wet balsa and epoxied void, fabricated/ installed a stainless steel gooseneck for wiring
 Removed old decals, renamed boat and installed new decals
 Cleaned bottom and painted (Micron CSC)
o Motor well:
 Moved motor bracket forward approximately 1-1/2 inches to allow motor to pivot and engine cowling to be removed for maintenance purpose (motor previously jammed against back of well)
 Installed 4” round access hatch to close off old remote control boot (open to interior)
 Installed a shore power connection to seal 3 in. hole (to interior) that motor wiring and extension cord were ran through.
o Sails and Rigging
 Had Eggers sail loft in Perth Amboy, NJ (great people!) - Fabricate all new standing rigging (stainless steel wire), repair 3 - 4 tears in Genoa and inspect and add second reefing point to mainsail
 Washed and softened all running rigging
 Added hardware for second reef to boom
 Added boom vang, including boom and mast bails
 Replaced lazy jacks

[swhfire21]

So far most everything has gone well and I am really impressed with the CD26. She is actually easier to handle and manage than the Ty was (extra room to move, a little more stable). The limited steering with the outboard (in well) is taking a little getting used to, but should be fully conquered by end of summer. She is also very comfortable for overnighting/weekends for two people. The fixes/problems to date have included:

- The through hull transducer had a slight leak after launching. However, the gunk in the cedar water here seems to have sealed it, so we'll watch it all summer and redo it this winter unless a problem arises.

- Something shorted in the running lights after they were tested. I am pretty sure this has to do with the bow light which I moved from an above the rail to below rail mounting after testing (just before launching). Hopefully, this should be a simple fix.

-The running/motoring light on mast is not working, I'm pretty sure this is a bad deck/cabin level solder or crimp and will look at this weekend.

- A slight rust spot showed up on the SS mast wire gooseneck. I think it was probably from a chain clamp mark when they (McMaster-Carr) cut the threads in the SS nipple. I'm going to try and sand/polish to see if it goes away (iron left over from chain clamp maybe?).

- The fortress anchor the boat came with seemed to have been modified to keep it from hitting the bow when on the bow roller (points ground off a bit) and does not grab/hold well. I replaced it with a Delta anchor, which I have had really good luck with here on other boats. I have to keep a second (light) line on the anchor to pull it to starboard (just a little) to keep it off the rolling furling drum, but it seems to store well (I use a 1/4 in. line off one of the deck cleats to pull it tight into the roller).

This is the first boat I've had with lazy jacks. I am definitely sold on them and am unlikely to go without them ever again. Its amazing how easy reefing and lowering the main sail becomes with them.

Thanks to everyone for posting their ideas/projects/suggestions/responses. The site has really saved me a lot of time and effort.

Take care,

[swhfire21]

The bow light problem was caused by chafed/missing wire insulation where the wiring exited the bow rail. I ran a new wire through the rail and it is now working.

I troubleshot the mast lights from on deck and below deck and believe there is a short up top where the wires exit the mast or in the block separating the two fixtures. I've decided to leave this be as we do not really cruise at night (had a portable light set up just in case) and will rewire mast this winter.

Biggest upgrade since last posting was restoration of the fresh water system. I replaced all the hose (sticky and smelly on exterior) and installed a toe operated pump in floor (The original hand pump in the faucet was shot). The pump is under the ladder to the main hatch so it is out of the way. I retained the original faucet and simply replaced the push/pull rod of the pump with a gasketed stainless steel screw and nut.

Only problem I had during pump installation was the hole saw jumped and left a few marks on floor (they show up more in photo than by eye). I'll try to deal with these over the winter.

[rollo_cd26]

Great job! I also have a 1988 CD26 diesel, hull 78, which I believe is the last one made. I purchased Mirabile (latin for miraculous) from a family member after it sitting 5 years on the hard in a graveyard for houseboats. It was too good a deal to pass on. I too had a lot of housekeeping to do. I noticed that you carpeted the inner hull against the cabin sole, interesting. Did you replace the cabin sole? Mine is getting soft right by the companion way steps and I haven't the slightest idea how to fix it. Also, did you find the bilge to be too short and too shallow? The 25's I've seen have much better bilge depth. The boat is quite comfortable for a weekend for two. The only issue I really don't like is the anchor rode storage though a narrow deck pipe. Good luck!

TR

[swhfire21]

Rollo,

The cabin sole is solid and original as far as I know. I can't take any credit for the carpet on inner hull as it was there when I bought the boat. The whole lower edge of both pieces were nothing but unraveled threads though. I trimmed off them then sealed the edges with a hot knife.

Although narrow, I would not consider the bilge shallow. It would take quite a stretch to reach bottom (I'm guessing its at least 24 - 30 in. below cabin sole). Maybe the cabin sole sits differently on the inboard version (I did not know they made one). I assume your boat has a lazarette where most have an engine well.

Agreed, the small hawse pipe is a pain in the rear. I've been looking for a matching cap for it with no luck. I may add changing it to a larger size if a cap does not materialize before I get that deep into my to do list,

Take care,