Teak Interior Update

[Subi-2's Day]

So I have found a pretty good way to get some light water damaged teak back to health. The Watco Oil descriped here also is great for getting new plantation veneer dark enough so the match is close to the original teak. Here is the procedure. Try it yourself on a sample area first.

1) Put a layer of Citristrip Stripping Gel (Home Depot) on the targeted area. Let this sit for about 1/2 hour. This is enough to take the bulk of the old finish off without really getting to deep into the base color. What it does best is get any Poly that has gotten yellowed from water getting under it and really pulls that stuff off.

2) Scrap the stripper off and then clean with mineral spirts or similar, let dry completly.

3) Sand lightly with 200-400 grit just to smooth any gain that might have raised up a bit. It should need much, wipe away and dust.

4) Next take a rag and wipe on Cherry colored "Watco Danish Oil". This will fill in any irregular colored spots and smooths the color out. let this sit for 1/2 hour or so and then wipe it off.

5) Let it dry for at least 72 hours. then start adding new Poly in whatever flavor you like. I use Minwax Fast Drying "clear satin"

I got the idea for the Watco oil from MaineSail on another forum, so a shout out to him.

Hope that helps.

[Jim_B]

Thanks for sharing - refinishing my interior is moving up the punch list. I will definitely try your approach. Related but somewhat different... Any recommendations for gluing/re-attaching the veneer that has raised as a result of (now fixed) leaks? I've been thinking of using a hypodermic needle to inject thinned epoxy and then putting clamps/weights on the parts while it cures (with wax paper between). Other ideas/experiences? Thanks again.

[Subi-2's Day]

Interesting Jim, I have the same problem and thought about the same solution. I think you would need an adhesive thats is pretty thin. I'm in the medical field so I might test some mixes. I will wait to hear if anyone else has some brillent ideas.

I may need to spend some time with the Oracle (Google)

[Subi-2's Day]

OK this might one of the best looking solutions to raised teak that I have found. After you get you teak glued back down you can use my re-finish technique above to make all pretty.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OVVkw93faHU

Ed
San Diego

[Ron M.]

A word of caution.... Have used watco for many years, dispose of any rags/brushes that get saturated promptly and properly. It is known to self combust.

[Daverosselle]

Folks: This is my first forum post. I just found a 40 yr. old CD 25 that appears to be in reasonably good condition, but will need some TLC. (Am now starting negotiations to purchase, but have obtained first right of refusal).
The exterior teak appears sound, but is very weathered. It feels rough and looks gray. What do y'all recommend for restoration? Can you refer me to another board or online resource? I'm assuming since CDs are no longer in production that it's not possible to buy replacement teak components.

Thanks,
Dave Rosselle
Lake Lanier
Gainesville GA

[Ken Cave]

There are all sorts of finishes one can use both interior and exterior, but I have found a product that
is probably the best of all the finishes. It is called Restor A Finish, made in Paso Robles, CA. and sold
in Ace Hardware, Home Depot, Lowes, etc.

It is actually a stain that penetrates the wood, and if you have some "grotty" cabinets at home, try
this product on them as well. It comes in various colors, and the color I use on my exterior teak is
Mahogany. If I have a damage area, all I do is scrape off the offending varnish, then sand the area
with 100 sandpaper. Apply the product with a rag, then varnish the area.

For interior, I do the same thing with either Walnut or Maple Pine. It not only restores the wood, but
takes out the water stains, scratches, etc. No I don't have stock in this product, but I have "sold" it
to a number of other sailors!!

Ken Cave

[tjr818]

I think that if all of the exterior teak on our 27 was gray I would just smile and go sailing much earlier each spring. Slainte's teak is all finished with Cetol Natural Teak and it really looks nice, but . . . .

[Paul D.]

Dave,

I would do a
title research on restoring teak before choosing your method. I would start with a search here on this site. And also anything by Don Casey and some bright work refinishing books. There are a lot of ways and most will have their own process.

I have restored a bunch of teak in the shape you describe and it is not hard but does take a little time. My way would be to clean with a two part teak cleaner like Teak Nu or Starbrite. Rinse well. Let dry. Sand ridges down with 120 grit. Vacuum. Wipe down with a tack cloth and apply finish of choice.

I've used oil, ten coats of Goldspar or Epiphanes varnish and Cetol over the years and this year tried Signature Finish Honey Teak on the toe rails. Lot of choices, each with its own pros and cons. A good thing to do is ask around the docks in your area for what people tend to like and why. Good luck.

[Ron M.]

Regarding the use of tack cloths.
Be certain they are compatible with the finish you choose.
Most store bought tack cloths contain some wax- which can be problematic with the topcoat causing fisheyes. Learned the hard way.
Better to make your own with lint free cloth and thinned finish.