Here I go, messing with the Alberg design again. Please forgive me, I just can't help myself.
I'm going to change to a cutter rig and here are my plans for the foredeck.
I plan to construct a longer bowsprit, extending it by about a foot.
My experience with using structural FRP for a boom gallows, has lead me to consider using GP03 for a shell (http://www.mcmaster.com/#8523k74/=s6k212), 6ft x 11-9/32in x 1-5/8" Legs, with 3/8" wall thickness. The core would be 1-1/4" of marine plywood (a sandwich of 3/4" & 1/2"), fiberglassed over with 1708 biaxial cloth (about 3/8 - 1/2" thick on the edges and 1/8" - 1/4" on the surface). Another blasphemous act, but that much less wood to care for.
Below is a sketch of the arrangement. The windlass will be pretty far back, however I will be using the forecabin only for sails and storage.
I will have to do something about the bow rail, as it will no longer encompass the forestay.
Does this look like a reasonable arrangement?
New Bowsprit
Moderator: Jim Walsh
Re: New Bowsprit
Have you considered how this is going to change the sailing characteristics? Moving the forestay forward like that and lengthening the forestay, thus adding sail area, plus the staysail, adding sail area plus moving the center of effort. I would consult a professional before making such a change. If I had a non bowsprit CD I think I would consider a solent rig if I wanted to add flexibility, or a detachable inner forestay inside the existing forestay, adding a chainplate to the bulkhead for the chain locker to attach (and beefing up that bulkhead to handle it).
As for the bowsprit design, sounds good to me, so long as the areas where anything is thru bolted is solid glass, I don't mean drill a large hole, fill it with epoxy, then redrill but actual solid glass laid up as its built, you would want zero risk of rot and a lot of strength where the for stay attaches.
Installing the bobstay chain plate is going to be interesting too, you might actually have to remove the chain locker bulkhead temporarily to access the area where you are going to do that.
Seems to me like there are easier ways to get the advantages of a cutter rig without getting so drastic.
As for the bowsprit design, sounds good to me, so long as the areas where anything is thru bolted is solid glass, I don't mean drill a large hole, fill it with epoxy, then redrill but actual solid glass laid up as its built, you would want zero risk of rot and a lot of strength where the for stay attaches.
Installing the bobstay chain plate is going to be interesting too, you might actually have to remove the chain locker bulkhead temporarily to access the area where you are going to do that.
Seems to me like there are easier ways to get the advantages of a cutter rig without getting so drastic.
Russell
s/v (yet to be named) Tayana 42CC
s/v Lady Pauline Cape Dory 36 #117 (for sale)
s/v (yet to be named) Tayana 42CC
s/v Lady Pauline Cape Dory 36 #117 (for sale)
Re: New Bowsprit
Russell, I've taken you words to heart and will add a solent stay. Too much time and resources for an uncertain result.
Bowsprit plans mark II:
The new bowsprit will extend to the blue tape:
The bowsprit will have a 3/8" skin of GPO3 with a white oak core:
I understand that it must be secured in a manner to handle extreme loads, preferably by transferring forces from the deck to the hull.
Will post more pictures as I proceed.
Thanks,
Bowsprit plans mark II:
The new bowsprit will extend to the blue tape:
The bowsprit will have a 3/8" skin of GPO3 with a white oak core:
I understand that it must be secured in a manner to handle extreme loads, preferably by transferring forces from the deck to the hull.
Will post more pictures as I proceed.
Thanks,
Re: New Bowsprit
Step 1: Remove old bowsprit
Easier said than done. After doing battle with reluctant bolts in a confined space, old sealant can still put up a fair resistance.
Easier said than done. After doing battle with reluctant bolts in a confined space, old sealant can still put up a fair resistance.
Re: New Bowsprit
Ugg, I remember removing the bowsprit on my CD36, and I thought that was a tight space, I was close to considering removing the anchor locker bulkhead. I cant imagine how tight it must have been on a 28. My arms are getting sore just thinking about that process years ago!hilbert wrote:Step 1: Remove old bowsprit
Easier said than done. After doing battle with reluctant bolts in a confined space, old sealant can still put up a fair resistance.
Russell
s/v (yet to be named) Tayana 42CC
s/v Lady Pauline Cape Dory 36 #117 (for sale)
s/v (yet to be named) Tayana 42CC
s/v Lady Pauline Cape Dory 36 #117 (for sale)