When I had a surveyor look at my Ty Senior, he noted an issue where there was some rot apparent in the cabin roof where a previous owner had drilled a hole and passed a wire through it but didn't seal it properly. There are signs that water definitely got in. The deck look fine but the surveyor's hammer sounded a bit different in this area. The surveyors opinion was that this was an isolated area of rot, relatively small, and could be fixed with an injection of resin (actually he had a specific product in mind, I'll have to get the name of it, it may have just been West System epoxy with some thickening additive.).
The guy I bought the boat from fixed the leak, in the surveyor's view, but some damage has already been done and should properly sealed and repaired.
Should I do some exploratory drilling and investigate this further? I understand that on my boat there's some sort of laminated crossbeam reinforcing the cabin roof right at the mast step area. I'm a little concerned if that beam has compromised.
Any experience or opinions on this? What would you say is the best way to fix this?
Also, I'm considering installing a CableClam to pass the RG-8X cable up through the cabin top. These good products?
fixing mast step reinforcing beam
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Megunticook
- Posts: 345
- Joined: Sep 2nd, '12, 17:59
- Location: Cape Dory Typhoon Senior #11
Re: fixing mast step reinforcing beam
Do the Tys not have the metal plate that other CD boats have?
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Maine_Buzzard
- Posts: 506
- Joined: Dec 22nd, '10, 21:15
- Location: Feet Dry, Olympia, WA
Re: fixing mast step reinforcing beam
Take a Dremel to a 1/8" allen wrench. Cut the short arm off just about 1/4" long, so that you can drop it into the hole from the coax. Cut a tooth into the front edge of the arm, so that it will take a bite as it spins around.
Chuck it into a cordless drill and start gouging the wet wood out. you can see and feel when it's rotted wood vs. solid. You may need to make a larger cutter if it's really rotted.
After it's cleaned up as much as possible, use a heat lamp from below and check every 10 min to see that it does not overheat (did that, ruined gelcoat). A half day at 90 should do it.
Once it's dry, plug the bottom, fill with thickened epoxy, then redrill afterward.
Love the cam seals. Buy two, and leave one undrilled to plug the hole in winter if needed. You can also leave the rubber plug on the coax permanently, and don't need to cut a slit if you can put the drilled plug on before attaching the coax connector. I had one 10 year old one crack from age, so don't expect it to be a forever part.
Chuck it into a cordless drill and start gouging the wet wood out. you can see and feel when it's rotted wood vs. solid. You may need to make a larger cutter if it's really rotted.
After it's cleaned up as much as possible, use a heat lamp from below and check every 10 min to see that it does not overheat (did that, ruined gelcoat). A half day at 90 should do it.
Once it's dry, plug the bottom, fill with thickened epoxy, then redrill afterward.
Love the cam seals. Buy two, and leave one undrilled to plug the hole in winter if needed. You can also leave the rubber plug on the coax permanently, and don't need to cut a slit if you can put the drilled plug on before attaching the coax connector. I had one 10 year old one crack from age, so don't expect it to be a forever part.