Tackling the Cutlass Bearing

[Maine_Buzzard]

When the Beta replaced my old MD7, the original shifter was not compatible.

Advancing the knob to go forwards and engage the transmission would cause the Beta to race, to a point where it would be unhealty to engage the transmission.

There was no way to add slop to the linkage where the throttle would remain at idle until shifted. I believe the ol Volvo fuel pump would let the throttle arm go negative without ill effects.

Replacing with a new Vetus from Hamilton fixed the issue. The throttle remains stationary while the gearshift moves at first turn of the lever.

That was the last $250 spent in the project. And discovered in the water...

I'll suggest looking at your shifter and a discussion with Joe at Sound Marine about your options.

[Gary H]

Bill,
On my boat the two exterior set screws were located 2 3/8 inches back from the stern edge of the cutlass bearing. I had to grind down at least a1/2 inch to find them. I see that someone posted that they could find them with a sander, however, they were quite deep in my case. That being said, I was not the first to tamper with this bearing as a PO had replaced it some 20 years ago. Whether they had changed anything from the original, I couldn't say.
I did find a note from the PO stating that there were originally 4 set screws and he replaced the bearing with only two.

Just take you grinder and started digging about 2.5 inches from the stern edge and they will appear. Don't worry about making a mess as you will just glass it over when you are done.

Gary

[barfwinkle]

Gary

the screws stand "proud" of the stearn tube correct? And they can't be any further forward that 4 1/2" due to the fact thats how long the bearing is RIGHT?

I dont think there is one on the starb'd side. Not positive, but its looking iffy.

Fair Winds

[Gary H]

That is correct. While I was grinding, a circle appeared that was a different color than the surrounding fiberglass. There was some filler in that circle and the screws were under that. The "heads" of the set screws did not protrude much out of the shaft tube.

You will most likely have to destroy the old bearing to remove it. Longitudinal cuts with a sawzall/hacksaw and then fold it in upon itself. You can accomplish that without removing the set screws and then find their location from the inside.

Good luck - its really not that bad.
Gary

[barfwinkle]

Good evening to all

Aboard Rhapsody, a 1984 Cape Dory 25D, the cutlass bearing set screws ARE NOT REPEAT ARE NOT, set in the fiberglass! As you can tell by the pics below they are in the "filler" aft of the actual hull. This is exactly what the Owners Manual said they were, however, there are only three on Rhapsody not four.

From this experience and from what someone else posted earlier in this thread, cut the old bearing out BEFORE, I SAY AGAIN, BEFORE, you start grinding on the fiberglass unless you know positive where the set screws are.

Fair Winds

[Gary H]

Not sure what I am looking at in that last pic

[barfwinkle]

Look now Gary

FW

[barfwinkle]

Well who knew! The set screws were wired in.

What does the wise ole sages of this board think Cape Dory used to fair the area? VCR Water Tite (sp)?

Fair winds

[barfwinkle]

Morning to All

This pic shows the stuffing box, stearn tube and the scoring where the set screws for the cutlass bearing are before the assembly goes in the boat. That sure would have made things a bit easier had I seen (or noticed) that pic BEFORE grinding!

Oh well telle est la vie



Fair Winds

[Joe Myerson]

FWIW, the latest issue of Cruising World (February 2014), has an article in its "Hands-on Sailor" section called, "Bearing Down on Cutless Bearings." It contains lots of photos ... on pages 70–73.

Joe

[Gary H]

With 30+ year old boats, you often do not know what modifications were done by previous owners. I know that I was not the first owner to replace the cutlass bearing which may explain why my set screws were buried in the fiberglass, 2 inches forward. Also, my bearing did not have holes, as yours does, for the set screws to set in to. The screws were just applying pressure to the outside of the bearing - which is the same way I installed the new bearing. I don't know if the 22D is a different set up than a 25D. All part of the fun!

[sharkbait]

Quite often the end of the set screw is messed up from contact with the bearing. It is better after removing the bearing to screw it all the way in instead of trying to back it out.

Or using a Dremel grind off the end back it out and replace it with a new one.

[barfwinkle]

Okay it looks as if everything is falling in place (if the freakin PolarVortez will get out of Dodge) to finish this project. However I need some seizing/mousing/locking wire. a foot or certainly two would be sufficient. I have a bunch of .032 guage/thick but that looks as if it way to big. I need something on the scale of .016ish (about 27 or 28 AWG). A 1/4 pound "spool" from McMaster-Carr is 410 feet. Right. I don't recall the price, but thats not important.

If anyone has some stainless mousing wire, I'd truly appreciate if you sell me some. I'll check with the jewelers in town later.

Fair Winds & Think Warm

[K Chiswell]

With 30+ year old boats, you often do not know what modifications were done by previous owners. .... All part of the fun!

I found a nightmare while replacing my cutlass bearing and the dripless seal bellows. Our dripless seal was put in by the PO and has been trouble free for eight years. So I was just planning on replacing the bellows and go on. But when I went to remove it something just didn't look right. I could only see one hose clamp and it disappeared into the fiberglass, the screw to tighten it was no where to be seen. The 330 also has a bronze shaft log so I decided to pull it. It turns out whoever installed the seal chiseled out the hole the shaft log went though to fit the bellows and clamps in from the outside. They just filled the cavity with caulk, too soft to have even been 5200. The flange on the shaft log does not even cover the hole. ALL A PART OF THE FUN!

My $.02. The only place I can see a dripless seal failing is the bellows. My experience with rubber parts makes me think that if it fails it will split at one of the ridges. With it under compression I do not see it tearing apart. I would think a reasonable bilge pump would keep up with it.

[gates_cliff]

Okay Captains Commanding you talked me into besides I know I'm getting a new shaft!

Stay warm & FW

Reminds of an old country and western song with a lyric that goes something like this, "...she got the mine and I got the shaft...."