CD-25 questions
Moderator: Jim Walsh
CD-25 questions
Looking to downsize to a trailerable (but not necessarily ramp launchable) boat. Went and looked at a 1975 Cape Dory 25 today (the original, not the 25D) and had a couple questions I hope someone can answer for me:
1. How do you get to the chain plates? It looks like they are behind the liner, making them impossible to inspect/service.
2. This boat did not have a stern pulpit, ans not sign that it ever had one. Is that common?
3. Besides the usual Old Boat stuff, what should I look for on this model?
Any other helpful insights appreciated.
1. How do you get to the chain plates? It looks like they are behind the liner, making them impossible to inspect/service.
2. This boat did not have a stern pulpit, ans not sign that it ever had one. Is that common?
3. Besides the usual Old Boat stuff, what should I look for on this model?
Any other helpful insights appreciated.
Re: CD-25 questions
1.chainplates. You can inspect them with a small mirror.there are ports/ holes behind those round teak cut outs on the hull liner
2.stern pulpits were on most models. My 73 has one my mooring neighbor 75 does not. Probably a option
3. Check the rudder for delamanation and the shoe/gungeon.
Explore the archives using the search button
Hire a surveyor if you go forward to purchase
Check the for sale listing on this site.there is a nice one just listed
Good luck pete
2.stern pulpits were on most models. My 73 has one my mooring neighbor 75 does not. Probably a option
3. Check the rudder for delamanation and the shoe/gungeon.
Explore the archives using the search button
Hire a surveyor if you go forward to purchase
Check the for sale listing on this site.there is a nice one just listed
Good luck pete
Re: CD-25 questions
Be alert to any soft spots in the deck. This is normally symptomatic of a water soaked or rotted balsa core in the area. Not incredibly difficult to repair but certainly a major investment of time and material cost. Alternatively, it is an easy fix with an ample supply of pieces of eight.
Generally you are better off paying a bit more for a boat in good condition, than getting a "bargain" on one that just needs some "cosmetic" repairs. Do not buy a project, unless you are looking for a project and not that interested in boating, at least not any time soon. When you are looking at boats over thirty years old condition is critical. You want something that has been well cared for, which usually is better equipped also. Every boat is a compromise, the trick is knowing what features rank highest on your list.
Generally you are better off paying a bit more for a boat in good condition, than getting a "bargain" on one that just needs some "cosmetic" repairs. Do not buy a project, unless you are looking for a project and not that interested in boating, at least not any time soon. When you are looking at boats over thirty years old condition is critical. You want something that has been well cared for, which usually is better equipped also. Every boat is a compromise, the trick is knowing what features rank highest on your list.
Steve
Wondering why we are all not out sailing now?
Wondering why we are all not out sailing now?
Re: CD-25 questions
Thanks for the advice. I wondered what those teak cut outs were for. I did check the rudder shoe/gudegeon interface. I also checked the deck over pretty well. I agree about the project boat comments - I have played that game before. At the same time, pretty much any 30+ year old boat needs some work, so trying to balance that versus price.
I did some cursory searching of the archives without much luck but will keep working on it.
I did some cursory searching of the archives without much luck but will keep working on it.
Re: CD-25 questions
While I haven't owned a 25, I have restored a Typhoon and now a CD 33. I would add to the list mentioned above
1. Double checking two areas, the cockpit sole and cabin top around the mast fitting for dull sounding hammer hits (water saturation)
2. Mast fittings and standing rigging for any very small cracks, bends or meat hooks. Often the smaller boats that get their masts stepped and unstepped more often get banged around or fittings get tweaked.
3. Check the ventilation for the outboard well. Shouldn't be a problem just make sure it is there.
4. Condition of any seacocks, there may be stories of gate valves on these older CD's under 28'
1. Double checking two areas, the cockpit sole and cabin top around the mast fitting for dull sounding hammer hits (water saturation)
2. Mast fittings and standing rigging for any very small cracks, bends or meat hooks. Often the smaller boats that get their masts stepped and unstepped more often get banged around or fittings get tweaked.
3. Check the ventilation for the outboard well. Shouldn't be a problem just make sure it is there.
4. Condition of any seacocks, there may be stories of gate valves on these older CD's under 28'
Paul
CDSOA Member
CDSOA Member
Re: CD-25 questions
Thanks Pual. I did check the sole but not around the mast. Mast was up so I only looked at the lower ends. This boat does still have gate valves which will need replacing. The head intake & outlet still have hoses on the gate valves that are plugged - not good. The rest of the maintenance & equipment looked to be well cared for, so I was surprised that this was not.
- Sea Hunt Video
- Posts: 2561
- Joined: May 4th, '11, 19:03
- Location: Former caretaker S/V Bali Ha'i 1982 CD 25D; Hull 69 and S/V Tadpole Typhoon Week
Re: CD-25 questions
I agree. When I took over care of S/V Bali Ha'i the surveyor said the cockpit sole was soft/mushy and should be replaced. He said that was the only spot he could find. It took me almost two (2) years to save up the "boat units" to do it. When I did, I had several fiberglass "experts" come by to give me estimates. Every one of them said "let me check the rest of the deck, cabin roof, etc. for soft spots." I knew they were just looking for more work, more money. Every one, to my surprise, said the cockpit sole is the only soft/water damage area. The guy I actually hired very carefully went around the entire boat and said he could not find any other soft spot. After I saw the quality of his work (at an exorbitant price of course ) I asked him to check the entire boat again. It made me feel good that the rest of S/V Bali Ha'i is, at least as of November 2013, a solid, dry little girl.Paul D. wrote: 1. Double checking two areas, the cockpit sole and cabin top around the mast fitting for dull sounding hammer hits (water saturation) . . .
As an aside, the cockpit sole was replaced with a material called "Coosa board". It is supposed to be of very high quality and very, very durable and strong. I have a sample of the new cockpit sole where will drilled a hole for the waste pump out. The new cockpit sole is 7/8" thick, including the coosa material, fiberglass sheets, etc.
Fair winds,
Roberto
a/k/a Sea Hunt "The Tadpole Sailor"
CDSOA #1097
________________________________
"I wish to have no Connection with any Ship that does not Sail fast for I intend to go in harm's way." Captain John Paul Jones, 16 November 1778, as quoted in Naval History and Heritage Command, http://www.history.navy.mil
Roberto
a/k/a Sea Hunt "The Tadpole Sailor"
CDSOA #1097
________________________________
"I wish to have no Connection with any Ship that does not Sail fast for I intend to go in harm's way." Captain John Paul Jones, 16 November 1778, as quoted in Naval History and Heritage Command, http://www.history.navy.mil