Bottom Paint for my trailerable CD25

[Mr. Bill]

OK, first the good news, after owning my '78 CD25 for 12 months now, I achieved my goal of being able to reliable keep and launch it from a trailer. If you would like to know more about that science experiment, shout, I would be happy to tell you more.

My next project is to paint the hull and the area below the water line. On the latter I am toying with using regular Rustoleum, (color and finish TBD) and I wanted anyone's opinion on that. Keep in mind, I plan to keep it on the trailer for the next few years but I do use it in fresh and salt water but it's never for more than a 4 day trip etc.... The area below the waterline DOES need a lot of prep to remove a good 0.1" layer of peeling paint etc so I do plan to spend energy on doing a sound sand, prep and prime job.

I am saving my money to use the right material for the hull above the water line. It needs a lot of TLC and there's no chance of buffing it back to life, the previous owner painted it and I am interested in changing the color as well.

So, I would appreciate any sage advice and experience anyone has had on the topic.

Thank you!

[Jdpmus]

Our previous boat, an O'Day 22, was also trailerable. I used a bottom paint that was available at Sears at the time; I believe it was made with tin oxide or something. It stayed on through all the launchings, etc. and kept the slime away (lake sailor here). I would re-paint every 3 or so years, but it seemed to hold up well. Others may have more current suggestions.

Also, when we had out CD25 pulled for bottom painting (slip at the lake only) the marine service had a crew that wet-sanded the hull to almost new appearance. Others may chime in also, but it was money well spent.

BTW, our CD is 1974 vintage and had been sadly neglected in the lake for about 15 years prior.

Good luck with yours.

[psjanker]

I am a new Cape Dory owner myself with only this first full sailing season under my belt. That being said CHASSEUR had been on the hard for 12 years prior to my taking a year to get her ready to get back in her native element.
In my case I took the bottom all the way back to gel coat, repaired and serviced any blisters and then put several barrier coats on using the best two part paint I could find. My take is that compared to the labor involved the paint itself is cheap no matter what the cost. If I were not putting on an ablative bottom paint I would consider putting several barrier coats on of one color and then switching to a finished barrier coat of the color of choice.

V/r

Pete

S\V CHASSEUR
Cape Dory 28

[tartansailor]

I had a professional bring the bottom of Renaissance down to it's gel coat. Then 2 coats of coal tar epoxy followed by an ablative, in this case Pettit Ultima SR. Three seasons now and still going strong. Salt water duration was 2 months at a time.
Dick

[Mr. Bill]

Thank you for all the feedback AND the photo's, I now have a level of excellence to use as some inspiration!