Cape Dory 25D seacocks

[ch.ocallaghan]

Spud Wrench:

Your local Home Depot stores probably don't carry it because it's a 'radiator' spud wrench. Probably not much demand for these in Florida.

The info I put in the post is from Home Depot's on-line catalog - you can order it online and have it delivered to your nearest store (no shipping charges)

[Sea Hunt Video]

Well, it is continuing to pour in South Florida. Rain expected remainder of day and probably tomorrow.

I offer the following update. Before doing so, I am reminded of the following expression often used by friends of mine when commenting on the various "situations" I have managed to get into over the years:

"God protects children, fools, and drunks"

I am frequently covered by two of the three categories and, to listen to the Admiral, I am almost always covered by three of the three. Nevertheless, I appear to be "protected".

After spending several hours on Google and the phone searching for a "radiator spud wrench" or a "step wrench", I found Pasco Tools in Maryland. I called them and while they sell only wholesale, they referred me to The Faucet Store in Chicago. I called them and they have the "spud wrench" for about $9. Sold

http://www.chicagofaucetshoppe.com/Pasc ... o-4558.htm

PASCO-4558 Pasco - 4558 - RADIATOR SPUD WRENCH, CAST IRON

In between the Google searching, etc., I continued to look for bronze or silicon bronze bolts, washers, nuts, etc. I had almost no luck. I even called a local supply store that has ALWAYS had anything I needed in terms of bolts, screws, etc. and they cater to the "onezies and twozies" crowd. No luck. They do not carry bronze. I called McMaster-Carr. Also no luck.

Finally, in desperation I called Paul at Spartan Marine to make sure that the bolts were indeed bronze. I thought they were but I am dumber than dirt. I also wanted to ask him if he knew where I could order them.

Paul is an amazing guy. He does not know me for Adam. Yet, he spent another lengthy period of time on the phone with me and explained he would mail me a set of bronze silicon bolts, nuts, locking washers, etc. along with the to-be-delivered "thru hull".

I have made this comment before and I restate it here with emphasis. Spartan Marine and staff (especially Paul) are the absolute best folks to deal with when it comes to Cape Dory parts, etc. It may be sometimes a little more than other products but the guaranteed product quality, service, and attitude is worth every additional penny. Another phrase I am reminded of: "You get what you pay for".

So, status report update:

1. I will have the "step wrench" a/k/a "spud wrench" delivered to me on Friday or Saturday this week. I will then have at least 2 weeks to work on removing the old, damaged (by me) "thru hull" because Spartan does not have any in stock at present. Paul suggested it would be about 2 weeks perhaps a little longer. Hopefully, this time period will be enough time to actually remove the damaged thru hull.

2. Once the seacock and thru hull arrive I will attempt the installation of both. I am told it is a two-man operation. Any offers

[Russell]

For future reference, both Jamestown Distributors and Hamilton Marine have been good sources for bronze fasteners for me.

[barfwinkle]

For future reference, both Jamestown Distributors and Hamilton Marine have been good sources for bronze fasteners for me.

I got mine from Jamestown as well.

Fair Winds

[Oswego John]

Once the seacock and thru hull arrive I will attempt the installation of both. I am told it is a two-man operation. Any offers

Hi Robert,

I realize that you are a true man of your word. I was just wondering if you could possibly be a little flexible and maybe waiver a tad in regard to the statement that you made in your prvious post.

What I'm driving at is maybe you could change "it is a two man operation" to "it is a two person operation. I do have someone in mind who might offer to help you in the removal and the installation of a new sea cock and through hull.

I have no idea how much experience , if any, this person has with the exchange of sea cocks. I can attest to the fact that this individual is a quick learner and should prove to be a valuable asset to your nautical endeavors.

I'm not sure at this point what your time frame for conversion is. I am most confident that all of the work can be consummated shortly after college Christmas break is over.

There is one troubling aspect to this arrangement that might be a proverbial fly in the ointment. That would be Fifi the cheerleader and the New Admiral that you have recently mentioned. Should I be concerned? Hmmm.

I will definitely stay tuned in to this main event.
O J

[rorik]

Once the seacock and thru hull arrive I will attempt the installation of both. I am told it is a two-man operation. Any offers

I just replaced all of Mathildas thru hulls and seacocks last week. One person can do it, but it does take a bit longer. The up side is that your legs will get much stronger from all of the extra trips up and down the ladder.

[Sea Hunt Video]

OJ:

Thanks. If I am not splashed by 01 Nov, I will consider it a failure of planning and execution. Please convey my apologies to Fifi.

Rorik:

If I may ask, what brand seacocks and thru hulls did you buy and why did you buy this particular brand

Also, why did you "replace" instead of "clean and polish" the existing seacocks and thru hulls I'm replacing the forward marine head seacock and thru hull because I managed to damage them in trying to get them off.

Sorry, I'm a nosy little thing.

[rorik]

I talked to Paul at Spartan a while back and he said the seacocks were in a condition to "clean and polish" IF the handle side of the cone was still proud of the body. Mine weren't proud - they were ashamed. And getting pretty weepy about it.
On top of that, I had moved the sink out of the companionway ( for some reason guests hate stepping into it and then falling down the ladder) onto the starboard side of the galley. Which meant a long, twisted drain hose to the final exit - not good.
I ended up moving the sink seacock to directly under the sink in its new location and moving the raw water seacock back to where the sink seacock had been, which helped make room for the larger strainer, the manifold for the salt water ball valve for the galley sink and a long enough hose from seacock to strainer to eliminate the exterior strainer.

I used Groco ball valves on flange bases.
Thru hulls were Groco also.
Thanks Maine Sail.

I would have loved using Spartan parts again, but the difference in price between Spartan and Groco.. What I paid for all seven sets of parts (three 3/4" and four 1-1/2") from Groco was only enough to buy three 3/4" seacocks - without thru hulls - from Spartan.

[Sea Hunt Video]

Received Spartan seacock yesterday. Awaiting backordered delivery of Spartan thru hull.

Received "radiator spud wrench" or "step wrench" today from Chicago Faucet. The darn thing is more than 10" long and weighs more than 2 lbs. At $9 plus minimal shipping, it appears to be a bargain with the following caveat. It is mfg. in Taiwan. Quality may be suspect. Hopefully, it will work. I have about 2 weeks to work on removing the old, damaged thru hull before the new Spartan thru hull arrives. Yea me.

I am assuming application of the old adage "righty tighty; lefty loosey" for removing the thru hull. Reasonable

[rorik]

I am assuming application of the old adage "righty tighty; lefty loosey" for removing the thru hull. Reasonable

...and messes run down hill and pay day is Friday....

[Sea Hunt Video]

For me, payday was once a month - assuming the job was done. Now, unemployed or "retired", depending on how you view life, I don't have any payday to look forward to.

Rorik, perhaps I wished I had looked at the Groco seacocks before purchasing Spartan, especially given what you suggest is a substantial price difference. My only consolation, not much, is that I am replacing a Spartan with a Spartan. Small comfort, given the price difference. Live and learn.

[Sea Hunt Video]

. . . I ended up moving the sink seacock to directly under the sink in its new location and moving the raw water seacock back to where the sink seacock had been . . .

Rorik:

Can you share with us (me ) the process, steps, methods, etc. that you used to move the two seacocks. I am assuming you had to fill in a large hole where the old seacock was and then drill a new hole for each new location for each seacock, assuming they were not the same diameter seacock. Even if the same diam., I assume you still had to pack something around the hole to prevent water ingress. On his tutorial website, Maine Sail recommend(s)(ed) Sikaflex 291 marine sealant. Is this still the sealant of choice

Thanks. Remember, I am a rookie, tadpole, dummy. Please keep your explanation at a grade school level if possible. No big or fancy words.

[rorik]

The steps I followed for all of the thru hulls, both new and old locations, were straight from Maine Sails site.
His directions are perfect.
As to filling in holes, I followed the same directions John Stone did on Far Reach, which came from West Systems website. You can download their pdf here:

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/repairing- ... iberglass/

For sealant, I used 3M 4200:

http://www.fisheriessupply.com/3m-marin ... -fast-cure


Have faith in yourself and take your time. Make each movement with deliberation and you'll be fine.

[Sea Hunt Video]

Rorik:

Thank you. The West System website is very helpful. Much appreciated. Not sure I can do that kind of work but it is good to learn how to do it.

Right now I will be happy if I can remove the thru hull for the marine head intake without damaging the entire bow section of S/V Bali Ha'i.

[rorik]

If you can sand, slop paint, and lay ever larger circles of cloth on top of each other - you can do the epoxy repair....