Anyone Have a Good Way of Refinishing the Very Bottom of Our

[tartansailor]

Anyone Have a Good Way of Refinishing the Very Bottom of Our Flat Keels?
I have often wondered what's going on there, and is there a possibility of water migration / delamination?
Seems to me that it might be risky jacking op the keel and moving blocks around hoping that jack stands do their job in the process.
Dick

[Steve Laume]

It is probably risky business to move the keel blocks around. That said a heavy floor jack will lift the keel enough to move the blocks. It would help to have two or three people to adjust jack stands while operating the floor jack and sliding the blocks under the keel. The aft block is easy. Set the jack, ease the bow and forward jack stands as you lift the keel, then slide the block into a new position. What makes the forward block far more risky is that the balance point is very close to where the keel turns. You don't have a lot of room for the jack and relocation of the support block. I used two bow stands when messing with the forward block just in case she decided to pivot onto her nose. I didn't want to rely on one bow stand that might pop out.

The key is to move slowly. Always keep the jack stands very close to the hull, as in just touching. I never removed the keel blocks either. If something were to go wrong you only want want a fraction of an inch between the blocks and the keel. It helps to have extra jack stands for added security. These will also allow you to relocate the jack stands to finish the areas where they contact the hull.

I am not so sure your boat yard would like to see any of this going on so that might be another consideration. You could have them lift the boat and relocate the blocks and stands.

It is definitely doable but might not be advisable. Extra consideration should be taken if you have close neighbors when hauled out. It is one thing to take responsibility for your own actions but that doesn't necessarily allow you to put others at risk, Steve.

[moctrams]

I had Gabbiano barrier coated lasy year and the yard left the boat in the travel lift slings for a couple of day to get at the bottom of the keel.

[Shinok]

I figure our regular groundings keep that part of the keel clean

[tartansailor]

It is definitely doable but might not be advisable. Extra consideration should be taken if you have close neighbors when hauled out. It is one thing to take responsibility for your own actions but that doesn't necessarily allow you to put others at risk, Steve.

No Steve, I would not ask anyone to help me with this. That's not my style, but thanks for the information. I like Moctrams idea of leasing a lift for a couple of days.

Dick

[tartansailor]

I figure our regular groundings keep that part of the keel clean

Ha Ha. I like that.
Reminds me of the old saw that goes: "If a dirty bottom slows you down, just think of what it does to your boat"!

Dick

[Steve Laume]

It is definitely doable but might not be advisable. Extra consideration should be taken if you have close neighbors when hauled out. It is one thing to take responsibility for your own actions but that doesn't necessarily allow you to put others at risk, Steve.

No Steve, I would not ask anyone to help me with this. That's not my style, but thanks for the information. I like Moctrams idea of leasing a lift for a couple of days.

Dick

I am sorry if I wasn't clear, that by neighbors, I meant other boats. The thinking that if something very bad were to happen, your boat would not create a domino effect of tumbling boats.

I wouldn't worry at all about asking a friend or two for help as they would be in no danger at all. It would be kind of like spotting a big kid in high school gym class. They would just run away if your boat started to tilt.

Seriously, working with the blocks and stands is not that difficult but is something you would need to feel comfortable with, Steve.

[Oswego John]

When I am adjusting a poppet or other type of boat hull support on my Ty for painting, waxing or other repairs. I most often add an extra margin of safety.

I cut a blunt bevel on the end of a 2x4 or 2x6 that is a few inches longer than the distance from the ground to the underside of the rub rail. The beveled edge is placed under the rub rail at an angle and the other end is tapped inward toward the keel until it is snug and supporting the hull.

Then the adjustable stand is quickly moved to its new location and raised until firmly supporting the hull in its new location. Adjustable hull supports should never be used to raise the hull off the keel supports. The full weight of the hull rests on blocking under the keel. The boat stands prevent the hull from toppling to either side.

BTW, don't forget to chain opposite boat stands together to prevent accidental scooting sideways out from under the hull.

O J

[Queen Elvis]

Let know how much you're being quoted to use a lift.

I'm a boat transporter (and Cape Dory owner) with a hydraulic trailer, and I might be interested in loading the boat onto my trailer and letting you work on her while loaded.

Obviously, this would work best financially if I happen to be passing through your area with an empty trailer. But I am in DE and MD quite often.

You're not going to get her hoisted high up, but there would be enough room to work, I'm sure.

I'm not so sure that I agree with Steve Laume's comment about friends being able to run away if a boat should tilt. I've seen a boat come down, and the tilting stage doesn't last very long. About as long as a lightning bolt! I'm not saying not to try his method - just that boats topple very, very quickly. And they are pretty much unstoppable.

[tartansailor]

Malcolm,
$100/week from a friend.
Thanks for the information. I'm sure that your post will be of interest to potential buyers here.
Dick

[Queen Elvis]

Can't go wrong at that price. Jump on it!