Replacing T Track on toe rail

[James Henry]

Hello, all. I have replaced the head sail on my CD30C (a yankee), with a larger 110. The new sail is not cut nearly as high as the old sail, so I will need to add track farther forward on the toe rail. Instead of butting a new track up against the old track, I have decided to remove the old track and replace it with an 8ft. section. After taking a peek down below, it appears that the original track was only installed with wood screws. It has held up fine, but I suspect that they used 5200 to bed and secure the wood screws. I took a large common screwdriver and tried to back out one of the screws holding the track, but it barely moved. Has anyone dealt with this issue? Is it in fact 5200? ...any suggestions?

Thanks
Jim (CD30 - Anne)

[Russell]

Hello, all. I have replaced the head sail on my CD30C (a yankee), with a larger 110. The new sail is not cut nearly as high as the old sail, so I will need to add track farther forward on the toe rail. Instead of butting a new track up against the old track, I have decided to remove the old track and replace it with an 8ft. section. After taking a peek down below, it appears that the original track was only installed with wood screws. It has held up fine, but I suspect that they used 5200 to bed and secure the wood screws. I took a large common screwdriver and tried to back out one of the screws holding the track, but it barely moved. Has anyone dealt with this issue? Is it in fact 5200? ...any suggestions?

Thanks
Jim (CD30 - Anne)

Its probably Sikaflex, it seemed to be CDs preferred goop for most things. Not quite as tenacious as 5200, but still pretty tough stuff. Really not much you can do other then use brute force to back them out. An appropriately sized screw driver will help tremendously (and prevent you from screwing up the head too much), those are pretty big slotted screws. Some larger screw drivers are setup to allow a wrench to be applied to it, giving very good leverage when backing out large stubborn screws such as these, I would go that route.

[James Henry]

Thanks, Russell. I am getting mentally prepared for this task. I have a good screwdriver and a competent helper. Jim

[Steve Laume]

Jim, I have been there twice.

When I first got Raven I rebedded the existing track. The screws you are seeing are holding the toe rail, not the tracks. The tracks are through bolted with 1/4" Machine screws, large fender washers and self locking nuts. This is one of the few things I have done on Raven that truly needs two people. Some of the nuts are very difficult to get at. You need to reach up under the liner in the book shelf area, the cabinets in the galley and the cockpit. The really hard ones are right at the bulkheads. Loosening the nuts before you try to turn the screw helps a lot. Unless a PO has rebedded with something dastardly the caulk was not a major issue. Just to make it more fun, all the bolts are much longer than they need to be.

I later added much longer tracks that go from near the stern to the mid ship cleat. I started with some used 10 foot tracks and cut a bit off of them. Installation was easier than rebedding but still difficult to get at some of the nuts. I drilled the holes by using the track as a guide and just make sure the drill is pretty vertical. The track bends pretty easy to fit the curve of the hull.

You will have room for all sorts of track mounted hardware, lots of adjustment for sail leads and you will not be stepping on the bright work, Steve.

[James Henry]

OK, Steve, I am slightly encouraged by the fact my T track has not been held on by wood screws. Thanks

[tartansailor]

Sears sells an ingenious frozen screw removal tool for about 25 bucks.
Insert the blade of the tool in to the screw slot. (Phillips or straight)
With your left hand twist the tool counter clockwise.
With your right hand whack it hard with a hammer.
Like the Old Philosopher, it never looses the argument.
Dick

[Steve Laume]

OK, Steve, I am slightly encouraged by the fact my T track has not been held on by wood screws. Thanks

Welcome to the quality of the Cape Dory. The things that are important are not going to break. Wiring might be another story but everything else is pretty bomb proof if it has been properly maintained, Steve.

[James Henry]

Thanks, Dick. I'm trying to get a mental picture of the tool you described. I am a big fan of Sears tools and rarely need much of an excuse to visit them. It sounds like a tool no man should be without.

Jim

[Steve Laume]

Here is what he was talking about and it could be helpful, Steve.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-impact-d ... =39869:4:0

[Skeep]

My special device is held by my wife who crept under the cockpit on our Typhoon and held the ratchet while we "partnered" together in this process. It is a little bit harder than doing it yourself as questions arise like, "Which direction do I twist this thing?" and "There is all this stuff under here..." and "Wait a minute, got something in my eyes." or "Oh Sh**t,damnit..." But after it is done there is the joyful celebration of marriage and that congratulatory remark that makes her beam with pride that without her, I could never have done this on my own!




See now? She's beaming...

[Joe Myerson]

Here is what he was talking about and it could be helpful, Steve.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-impact-d ... =39869:4:0

Yep, that's an old-style impact driver. It's saved my butt more than once, I keep one in my onboard tool bag.

--Joe