Advice on removing teak coamings w/out damage

[Mike]

I need to remove my teak coamings this winter for some repairs
and to refinish & rebed them. Wondering if others
have found good ways to remove the plugs to access the
fastener heads without messing up the plug holes too much; would
like to re-use the same holes and replug them if possible.

Tx,

Mike

CD25 #824
"Fair Wind"



zucker_m@ligo.mit.edu

[sloopjohnl]

a slightly undersized forstner drill bit would be my tool of choice. after removing the bulk of the original plug material, the rest could be dug out with a small sharp screwdriver or ice pick. don't go too deep with the forstner and you won't bugger up the screw heads.

I need to remove my teak coamings this winter for some repairs
and to refinish & rebed them. Wondering if others
have found good ways to remove the plugs to access the
fastener heads without messing up the plug holes too much; would
like to re-use the same holes and replug them if possible.

Tx,

Mike

CD25 #824
"Fair Wind"

[Larry DeMers]

I just did this over the past weekend...only, on the companionway hatch. I used a slightly undersized drill bit, added a 'stopper' to limit the depth to 3/16 in. I used a slow rotation speed on an electric screwdriver (in order to keep the speed low but keep the torque), and slowly drilled down in the center, all the way to the stopper. These teak plugs are basicly glued around the top periphery of the plug, so they break lose very easily..and cleanly in all of the 10 screws that I pulled in the companionway teak. It should be the same for you I would expect. Then just back out the phillips head screws and that part is done.
Now in your case, there will undoubtedly be a bedding of some type behind the boards, so use some light pressure to see if things are loosened up enough to take the coamings off. You may need to pry gently and carefully. Also, before trying to remove the boards, cut the bead of silicon or other bedding compound located on the backside of the boards, where they join the deck glass. I would think they should come off fairly directly at this point.
Replacement teak plugs are easily available from the catalogs, and woodworkers shops all over. I bought a bag of 3 sizes of plugs x100, for $4.95

Cheers!

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30

I need to remove my teak coamings this winter for some repairs
and to refinish & rebed them. Wondering if others
have found good ways to remove the plugs to access the
fastener heads without messing up the plug holes too much; would
like to re-use the same holes and replug them if possible.

Tx,

Mike

CD25 #824
"Fair Wind"

demers@sgi.com

[tom b]

use a 1/8 inch bit,drill into the center of the plug,it will bottom out at the screw that is behind the plug.then use a one inch long number 10 or 12 screw. the screw will push the plug out. if there is varnish on the wood, use an awl to scratch around the plug because when the screw pushes the plug out it can also remove some wood around the plug. buy an 18 inch metal ruler,file one edge sharp and that will help cut the sealent behind it . good luck.

tom b
cd33
wind chime

I need to remove my teak coamings this winter for some repairs
and to refinish & rebed them. Wondering if others
have found good ways to remove the plugs to access the
fastener heads without messing up the plug holes too much; would
like to re-use the same holes and replug them if possible.

Tx,

Mike

CD25 #824
"Fair Wind"

[Fred]

I need to remove my teak coamings this winter for some repairs
and to refinish & rebed them. Wondering if others
have found good ways to remove the plugs to access the
fastener heads without messing up the plug holes too much; would
like to re-use the same holes and replug them if possible.

Tx,

Mike

Just use a very small slotted screwdriver, and a hammer. Use the screwdriver like a small chisel. This is by far the quickest and safest way to remove bungs.

CD25 #824
"Fair Wind"

fred@hotheet.com

[Mike]

John, Larry, Tom, Fred-

Thanks for all the advice, I think I'm ready!

Don't think releasing the bedding will be a problem as
there is a good 1/8"
gap visible most of the way around. Wet crew rear ends
moved this job to the top of the winter list. Not sure why the
bedding failed, except there's evidence of a prior repair on
the starboard side where the winch stanchion appears to have
blown out the top edge of the coaming at some point. But
both coamings are loose (maybe they tacked when the
first one broke???).



zucker_m@ligo.mit.edu

[John R.]

use a 1/8 inch bit,drill into the center of the plug,it will bottom out at the screw that is behind the plug.then use a one inch long number 10 or 12 screw. the screw will push the plug out. if there is varnish on the wood, use an awl to scratch around the plug because when the screw pushes the plug out it can also remove some wood around the plug. buy an 18 inch metal ruler,file one edge sharp and that will help cut the sealent behind it . good luck.

----------------------------------------------------------------------
The drill and screw method Tom describes is the usual method of removing bungs and leaving a pristine condition fastener and bung hole as a result. It is the preferred and professional method used by boat builders and manufacturers.

I however do it slightly differently than Tom. I use a 3/32" bit and a #8 self tap screw. Be sure to drill all the way through the bung until the bit bottoms out at the covered screw head. Then screw in the tapping screw and when it bottoms against the fastener under the bung it will then begin to lift the bung cleanly from it's hole. I use an X-acto knife to score finishes like the varnish rather than an awl or similar tool before doing the extraction.

You will find that this technique is easy, quick and perfect if you do it properly. No damage will be done to the bung hole or surrounding wood.

I need to remove my teak coamings this winter for some repairs
and to refinish & rebed them. Wondering if others
have found good ways to remove the plugs to access the
fastener heads without messing up the plug holes too much; would
like to re-use the same holes and replug them if possible.

Tx,

Mike

CD25 #824
"Fair Wind"