taking the counter off to get at the ice box

[John M.Sullivan]

I am thinking to try pull up/ yank off the starboard counter on my 1983 CD30 in order to get to the icebox and install the refrigeration gear and additional insulation. I would LOVE to avoid having to cut it up or saw it out. Can't I just maybe cut, chisel or saw at the seams or something so I don't have to do a whole cosmetic surface repair to a torn up formica counter that is now without blemish. I am pretty sure there are sailors and renovators among us who have fussed with this problem. A word of advice would be so appreciated.
- John Sullivan

[Adamhagan]

Remove the fiddle and trim work. Using a heat gun you can soften the cement under the laminate and working carefully with putty knives remove the laminate. Then you can unscrew the plywood without a "total" demo.

I just installed some granite laminate on my CD30 and it looks great.

[Steve Laume]

John, did the laminate on the face of the cabinet lap over the substrate on the top? This seems like the way it would be done and that would require removing the face as well as the top laminate to pull the plywood ice box cover. Just wondering how big a can of worms this job could turn into.

I insulated Raven's ice box with spray foam but might like to take it a step farther as well as change the counter top laminate. I have done a good bit of residential and commercial laminate work and there are a couple of tricky areas on our boats where you can't trim excess.

I have done a few little modifications to Raven's counter tops that might be worthwhile if you are refurbishing. In the port side corner, behind the sink, I made up a block with a circular recess that holds the base of a thermos. The bottle is snuggled into the corner with a small bungee cord. I changed the fiddle by the ice box from the measly little thing that was there to one that is a full 1&1/2" tall. I also added low fiddles to the area between the sink sink and the stove as well as around the edge of the area just to the center line of the sink next to the engine cover. This little spot always seems to get a lot of use but was pretty vulnerable. Things tend to stay on the counter top a bit better than they used to. The most important thing I did if you are going to be changing the laminate is to add a 1/2" quarter round molding around the joint between the counter top and the vertical teak. This would allow you a little wiggle room with the laminate fit as well as protecting the bottom edge of the teak from water damage when things get wet on the counter top. It looks a little more finished as well.

Light, solid colors are never a good choice for counter tops, Steve.

[Bob Ohler]

Adam, any photos of your new granite counter. Is it granite-looking laminate, or is it real granite?

[Adamhagan]

Hi Bob,

No it is imitation granite laminate. The board over the stove still stow's as the original design. I used a high quality laminate and a 30000RPM router to get nice edges. The original laminate lasted over 30 years, so I am expecting another 30.

It was also very inexpensive and provided the solution to the ice box conversion. I designed a similar stowage system for the ice box countertop that the stove has.

I will be finishing the teak cabin side and reinstalling a leaking port light this weekend and I will get photos.

[Adamhagan]

Here is a photo of the laminate. I am sure a custom corian would be far nicer, but it is out of my budget.

This wipes clean and was easy to work with (with a high speed router). Next I will resurface the sink area and then the icebox conversion.


countertop by adamhagan, on Flickr