Skyle the Typhoon - Complete Restoration

[mcentire]

Hello all,
I have completed a restoration of a 1973 CD Typhoon and posted the photos to You Tube. Since I really enjoy everyone's project photos I hope you will enjoy mine.

The project started in Aug 2010 with the purchase of the boat. The boat was stripped and parts were refinished in the fall and winter of 2010. The major work was done in the spring and summer of 2011. Alas, no splashing in 2011 - ran out of time and good weather (Hurricane Irene went through Maine). Stored the boat the winter of 2011-2012. Got her launched last weekend and went for the first sail in Casco Bay near Portland.

I couldn't ask for a better boat.

Here is the link to the You Tube video:

Skyle the Typhoon

[chomeur]

Gorgeous. Who made your cushions for you?

David

[mcentire]

I had a local lady, who does upholstery, sew them for me. I bought the Sunbrella, foam, batting, zippers and she made them using the old cushions as a pattern. Nothing fancy, just basic cushions.

[Skeep]

Karl, appreciate the slide show. My question is on the Taff-rail. I removed mine too, as it had been sanded down to the shape of an airplane wing. See pic.



I at first thought to have it cut and made like the original joint, but then I thought well, how about one 10 inch piece of teak, planed down to 1/2 or 5/8ths and just cut it out of that.

What are your thoughts on the taff rail and advice?

[Steve Laume]

It is pretty amazing how much wood can be sanded and worn away with time. I am pretty sure the original thickness of that piece was closer to 3/4". If you measure where the back stay was attached it should give you the best idea.

There are a couple of reasons why the rail is made in two pieces. The first and most obvious is that Teak is very expensive and wide boards even more so, as well as harder to find. The second reason is that by cutting it all out of one piece you can not orientate the grain along the length of the piece as well. Making it out of one wide board would angle the grain across the curve near the ends of the piece. This would make it more prone to splitting. While this might not be a problem with new wood, as Teak is pretty tenacious, it could cause problems for some owner somewhere down the line.

Using narrower boards is just good use of material, Steve.

[bhartley]

Differnt Typhoon, but same problem. The taffrail was my favorite part of my total Ty refit. I had a piece the size of ONE side of the taffrail resawn (local cabinet shop as at the time I did not own a band saw). It cost about $5.00 to have it resawn (no exactly sure the past tense of the verb To Saw!).


Unless you have a thickness plane, I think you will find that sanding down a whole piece to the right thickness is a LOT of work (and wasted wood). The double curve of the piece works best staying with the grain of the wood so I would personally stick with the original design. The scarf joint is simple.

One piece of advice is to be very aware of the location of the holes/nuts for the backstay chainplate. The nuts are glassed in behind the joint and are hard to reach. Have the whole thing dry-fit first before cutting the final holes for the backstay. I did end up using extra long bronze bolts and adding a washer and an extra nut for good measure.

Bly

[Skeep]

Gents, thanks for the speedy advice. I will work with a friend who does this sort of thing in his sleep to achieve the scarf joint and the double curve. My buddy was telling me about the curvatures. Also, I assume then because neither of you stated it, that this taff rail does not need to be steam bent in order to be applied?

And are we all agreed as to thickness? 5/8ths or 3/4trs?

Great input gents.

[bhartley]

My old taffrail measures 3/8" as does a scrap of the replacement. It does not appear to have worn very much based on the countersunk holes. Mine was replaced as there was a "bite" out of it and with brand new toerails/rubrails the replacement needed slight adjustments to the ends where they met the toerails. The scarf joint was 2". No need to steam bend. Even the toe/rub rails bent easily into place.

Bly

[mcentire]

The old taffrail on my boat was split, very weathered, and had a chunk missing. I had some scrap teak, but not enough to scarf two pieces together. I also didn't have the woodworking tools to do the scarf. So I bought a piece of 1/2" teak and made a one piece taffrail. I used the old one as a pattern for the holes and did a few dry fits until I was satisfied. After sanding / finishing the new taffrail was slightly less than 1/2". I don't mind the slightly thicker taffrail and it looks fine.

New taffrail with bungs installed.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/b25xjkcekekyw ... 1%20PM.jpg

Bungs sanded down.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/99ohciq4pdpmm ... 6%20PM.jpg

Finished taffrail.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0j27pg6nq2n4n ... 8%20PM.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/417bk1uvnvue9 ... 1%20PM.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7u2xymvdbtcgk ... 1%20PM.jpg

[bhartley]

For what it's worth, I simply used a 1/4 sheet finish sander to make my scarf joint on the taffrail. Marked all three sides and took it slow with even pressure. The long-term strength of using the grain the full length of the piece is a real positive.

Bly

[Skeep]

You gents are extremely helpful. At least I know this adventure is way out of my area of expertise!

I've engaged with a craftsman to replicate this old piece of teak for the Dory. So I'm sharing our conversation with him in order to help him visualize and create this in the next few weeks. Your comments are so very helpful.

Plus, it probably sounds silly, but what are your insights and/or recommendations for that piece of protective metal adjacent to the taffrail on the transom? Is this something I should maintain? Is it the standard for the Typhoon? And if so, where can I find that thing?

[mcentire]

Skeep,

Are you refering to the chock on the taff-rail? See pic. If so, you should include it to keep cleat lines from rubbing the taffrail.

[Skeep]

Karl, not that, but that is a great source. I'm referring to this tacky bit of stuff on my vessel:

[mcentire]

Skeep,
My guess is a previous owner added that as a rub rail. Unless you need some protection on the stern, I would lose it. However, if you take it off you could very well find a surprise under there. Sometimes these types of things are added to hide previous damage.
- Karl

[Skeep]

Karl, indeed. I did remove it and fortunately found nothing but screw holes. Was conversing with my woodworker on this thing and trying to determine the value of having it or losing it when I install the new taffrail. It is a matter of asthetics at this point. I don't see a lot of uniformity amongst this fleet of Typhoons on the transom--seems to be all sorts of styles. I agree with you however on the stern, it is a vulnerable area which most of the time is the last thing to hit. Unless however one is doing the European stern to berth method and trying to work with propeller prop-walk and winds.

I think the little Ty will be better off without it. Thanks for your advice!