Racor filter on a CD27

[tjr818]

I have a Racor 500FG filter I want to install on our CD27. I didn't realize how big this filter is until I tried to find a place to install it. The way I understand it the filter should be mounted below the fuel tank. Is that true? If so wouldn't the filter just have to be located below the level of the fuel? That might buy me a few inches of elevation. Our tank feeds from the top. I assume that fuel will siphon down to fill the filter. If I mount the filter below the tank won't it be below the fuel filter on the engine? How does that affect bleeding the system when changing a filter? Where have other CD27 owners mounted their filter and how have they routed the lines?

[Steve Laume]

I think Raven's is above the fuel tank and works just fine.

I don't know if having an electric fuel pump on the engine makes any difference.

It would be hard to locate the thing lower than the bottom of the tank and a real pain to change the filter, Steve.

[Bob Owens]

My Racor is mounted on the bulkhead under which fuel tank extends forward; it is at about the same height as the top of the tank. Had this set-up now for 5-6 years with no problems. My engine is the original YSB 8 with electric pump.

[jneely]

I also have a Yanmar SB 8 with an electric pump. I through bolted the filter housing at the inboard edge of the storage apace aft of the stove. The filter is in the engine compartment and a backing plate ant nuts are inside the storage compartment. the outlet/inlet for the filter is about eight inches higher than the top of the primary filter on the engine. Works great.

[Bob Ohler]

Racor #120 mounted in engine compartment on two differnt CD's. I replace with an R12T element every year. Works great! I cannot imagine needing the Racor 500 on our small engine CD's, although I know the 500 is supposed to be a heckuva filter system.

[gates_cliff]

You guys have to stop! Installing a new fuel filter arrangement has been on my "want to do list" for some time but now, it's getting close to my "must do list"! Every time I read a new thread about something or other, I feel obligated to get started on yet another project!

[Bob Ohler]

Regardless of which Racor you select, add a fuel shut-off valve immediately before the Racor. Close the valve when changing filters and cleaning the bowl. This may even eliminate the need to bleed the system upon re-assembly. It works for me.

[Steve Laume]

I got rid of the old iron Fram filter on Raven before I ever even changed an element in the thing.

One more thing you might consider when you are changing things, is getting a vacuum gauge.

It goes on the filter and will start to read a vacuum if the element begins to clog. You can probably save the price of the gauge by not changing filter elements as often. It not only saves you filter changes by not just doing it every year but it will also alert you as to when you do need to change a filter.

It can also be useful in some trouble shooting situations.

Mine is an actual gauge I need to read but this one looks even better and more reasonably priced.

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... id=1737501

Just a couple of more fittings to install, Steve.

[hilbert]

ABYC standards require that filters within the engine space must be able to pass a two and one-half minute heat test as defined by ANSI/UL 1105.
Please do your own due diligence, however it is my understanding that there is no such requirements if mounted outside the engine space.

Older, unused Racor 200FG/FGM filters/water seperators are available on eBay for about $75. While dated, these filter housings were expensive, quality products and are still in use on many boats and trucks. Filter elements are available at marine chandleries in 2, 10 and 30 micron sizes, at a premium price. A compatible NAPA 3207, 14 micron element is available online for as little as $5.

One caveat is that it is difficult to find SAE 7/16" X 20 straight thread fittings with o-rings, for the ports. If you do go down this path, then try and find filters that come with hose fittings.

[gvanbell]

The filter SHOULD be below the tank. It will work if it is above but you increase the risk of air in the fuel. Just get it as low as you can and know that you might have to bleed the system more often than usual.

I built a new bulkhead under the fuel tank shelf in order to attach the filter. Of course, I had the whole engine area ripped apart and open as part of a larger refit, but still. Here is a picture of the install. The mechanic that did the final alignment and adjustments was very happy with how it worked out.

The white hose is the port cockpit scupper. The fuel tank sits on the shelf next to the filter.

-g