Thru Hull Tool For Removal

[hilbert]

Can anyone confirm that this wrench will unscrew thru-hulls from a CD?

http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/browse. ... 17861.html

Most of the tools that I have found online either state that they are not for removal or the text only refers to tightening.

Thanks,

[karonoko]

I removed the depth transducer through hull on Scotia without this tool. I uncrewed the large nut on the inside of the hull, and then whacked it out with a section of black pipe and a flange screwed into the end of it which I placed against the almost-unscrewed nut. (so i wouldn't injur the threads in case I wanted to re-use it). I took a blade to score around the fitting on the outside of hte hull so as not to injur the paint job. After much research on this site on this topic this was the prevailing wisdom. The Hamilton device is for screw-in fittings and also to hold the new fitting whilst you screw the nut - not really necessary.

[Tom Keevil]

Most likely your thru hull is very well cemented to the hull, and you should be able to unscrew the seacock without the need for a tool to hold the fitting in place. You then need some serious pressure to force the thru hull out of the hull - it won't screw out. This tool would be useful for installing a new thru hull, but you can do it a lot cheaper with any old thing that will fit in and catch the ridges.

[Russell]

I have only used those for installing new thru hulls, never to remove one. As already pointed out, the thing is probably so well attached that when you go to unscrew the seacock the thruhull will stay put. Then to remove the thruhull, use a heat gun to heat it up well (helps soften the 5200) then if you can get your foot in there, literally step on it hard to push it out. If you cant get your foot in there, you will have to get creative (think leverage). Dont be afraid to ask a yard worker for advice, they have typically done thousands of these in the worst possible locations, just buy the guy a 6 pack of his favorite beer at the end of the day to thank him for his free advice (or a 12 pack if he drinks cheap beer, I feel cheap buying someone a 6 pack of Busch or similar).

If you are installing a new thru hull after this process, the tool can be helpful. As pointed out though, any old thing you have laying around can work, I have often used old chisels that happen to be the right width. Though if you are near Annapolis, I do own one of those thru hull wrenches that you could borrow and save yourself $50.

[hilbert]

I think I got it.

1) Use money to buy beer, not tools.
2) Remove the though-bolts that hold the flange of the seacock.
3) Unscrew the seacock.
4) Use leverage to pull the thru hull out.
5) If successful, drink beer.
6) If unsuccessful, use beer to solicit help.

Thanks!

[Maine_Buzzard]

Yes, I used that tool to unscrew the thruhull fittings where the flange of the thruhull overlapped the seacock mounting screws.

You may have to grind it down a bit to fit. Be certain to clean up the inside of the thruhull and remove the seacock barrel first.

A pipe wrench is a very good idea.

[Bob Brown]

I purchased a similar tool that was square from the plumbing store to remove the threaded flange on a steam radiator. The tool was under $10.00. It might work for you out of the box or you may have to grind down one of the squares to fit.

[Bill Goldsmith]

The Hamilton page says it is used to hold the thru hull from turning while tightening the nut. On the Jamestown Distributors page, that same tool has the warning Not For Removal Of Old Thru-Hull Fittings".

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... o?pid=3676

For Spartan seacocks, you install the seacock first, and then screw in the thru-hull. The removal is opposite--you need to unscrew the thru-hull first, which entails breaking any sealant bond that may be there. You need a lot of leverage. The best tool is a "radiator spud wrench" and a big pipe wrench. I have used thesuccessfully to do this.



As you can see, there is plenty of surface to attach a pipe wrench to get leverage. I don't think those short handles on the pictured one will give you enough leverage.

They are also pretty cheap.

http://www.homedepot.com/buy/building-m ... CEYQPaPV8E

[sharkbait]

I don't think those short handles on the pictured one will give you enough leverage.

You are correct about those short handles; but, you can put a 3 foot crescent wrench on that square top and move almost anything.

I usually apply heat to the thru-hull before even attempting to remove it. Then that tool and a big wrench has always been successful. If not you can split the head of the thru-hull with a dremel and a cutoff wheel into four pieces and drive them loose with a big hammer and a brass punch.

[John M]

I had to remove several Sparten seacocks in my 1984 CD 30 to free them up and rebuild. I simply found approx 1/4 inch thick bar stock, put a slight taper on it so I could get a tight fit against the little nubs and place a pipe wrench close to the hull. It took a great deal of force, I extended the wrench handle with a piece of pipe, but they all came out. Once this is done you remove the bolts and the seacock is free.

[RIKanaka]

I used a radiator spud wrench which is much beefier (and cheaper) than the thru-hull wrench. I was able to remove and later reinstall the thru-hull without removing the seacock using this wrench.

[Noel Heslop]

John M's Method listed earlier works a Treat.

I needed to remove all my seacocks, and a sailing mate came up with John M's method which worked quite well.
You do need the pipe extension for strong leverage. We did not preheat beforehand, just applied pressure, and I seem to remember a sharp tap to break one difficult seal. Not quite sure about this, as it was 9 months ago.
I was outside with the bar and pipe extension unscrewing, and my mate Robert was inside Breezy, doing his thing, to contra the pressure I applied.

The flat tappered bar I used, is now painted and is part of my toolkit. Hope this helps.