Just purchased 1974 CD Ty, how to rig?

[Rnoonan]

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Wanted to introduce myself to the board. Just a couple hours ago I purchased a 1974 CD Typhoon in immaculate condition. After growing up in a sailing family, this is the first sailboat of my own (childhood Sunfish excluded). I'll be sailing out of southern Maine and teaching my wife and kids "the ropes." Probably not all 4 of us at once

While I'm sure over time I'll need advice on various mechanical/structural challenges, I think for now my big hurdle is going to be figuring out how to step and rig the mast. I'm lucky enough that my town pier should enable me to get the mast vertical without any mechanical aid. But from there I'll need to sort the head stay (Harken mkIII roller furling) and other standing rigging, figure out stay/shroud tension, etc. Any recommendations for how to begin preparing? What should be the order of operations once the mast is vertical? Should I be investing in a tension gauge or do most folks eyeball these rigs? I basically know enough to know that I don't know enough and hope to pull a crash course over the holiday weekend.

I don't expect anyone to provide a step-by-step, but any guidance is most appreciated!

Thanks-
Rich

[distand]

Congrats on your purchase. I bought a 1976 Ty last summer and it has been great. I was with the previous owner when the rig came down so I did not adjust the tension on the turnbuckles from what he had. Here is what I do:

- As I rig it in on the trailer before it gets lifted into the water, I set up a tall step ladder behind the boat. The ladder extends above the transom
- Then I attach the rigging (except for the forward stay). Remember that the lower shrouds go to the aft chainplate and the upper shrouds (the one that goes through the spreaders) go to the forward chainplate. Check that the shrouds are not twisted.
- Attach a long line to the turnbuckle for the forward stay (or use one of the halyards making sure it is has a knot in the end so that you don't pull it through the mast). The main halyard gives the best leverage as it's at the top of the mast. I think you would need to attach another line to it to lengthen.
- Standing on the boat I then lift the mast and walk it back until the bottom of the mast is aligned with the step. I then rest the mast on the ladder. Not sure the ladder is absolutely necessary but I find it makes it easier to handle the mast so that I don't lose control of it.
- Then place the mast in the step (it slides right in). Once it is in firmly in just walk it up and have someone forward keeping tension on the line attached to the forward stay.
- Once it's up you can walk forward and clip in the turnbuckle. This is where it's a little easier to use the halyard because your helper can easily apply tension as you are clipping it in. If you are using the stay then it's necessary for the person on the deck to take hold of the stay, hold it to keep the mast upright, the helper undoes the line and then he/she clips it in.
- Regarding tension I understand that it's most important not to over-tighten the rig. There should be some play in it (not loose). I believe that CD has some better rigging instructions available in one of their manuals if you want to try to find it.


There are many iterations of this but this method works ok for me. I've read some blogs where people do it alone. I tried to attach a pic of my rig but the file was too large. I try to reduce the size and send it along.

Good luck

Don

[distand]

Here is a pic

Typhoon rig.gif

[mashenden]

Yes, congrats on you fine choice of boats (I currently have 3 Tys and a CD-10 - ). You will probably find 2 adults and 2 children will be quite comfortable on your Ty given that the cockpit is bigger than many larger boats. I confess to sleeping on a Weekender with 2 kids and a Weimaraner dog - it beats camping IMHO

Walking the mast up (or down) is very easy once you overcome the fear factor. I thought that distand's (Don's) step-by-step procedure posted earlier was well written - very similar to my approach.

There are a few things to consider that are slightly different if you ever need/want to do it solo...

Rather than using the previously suggested step ladder approach I built a "H Stand" out of 2x4's and mounted a bow roller at the top. The H Stand goes at the stern (aft part of the cockpit) to support the mast when trailering the boat. It needs to be about 30" tall so that mast clears the cabin top when horizontal (assumes no bow rail). The bow roller at the top of the H Stand makes it easier to maneuver the mast aft when putting the mast's base into the step.

The other tweak to the procedure if you are solo is to run the line that you attach to the forestay through something at the bow (a block or the SS L lock thingies, a technical term, on either side of the bronze bow plate) and then run it all the way back to wherever you are going to start walking the mast up. Be sure to stuff the end of the line into your pocket or someplace where it will not get out of your reach.

Once the mast is vertical the hard part is over because the backstay and shrouds keep it in place. Simply keep the mast in place by leaning on it toward the bow with your body and then pull in the slack on the line until the forestay gets some tension, which is then what prohibits the mast from going back down. Lastly either cleat that line to something or slowly maneuver forward while always maintaining tension on it until you can secure the forestay in its rightful place.

There, done solo... and all while not leaving the kids unsupervised The alternate being to go with the two person approach and use the extra line to lash the children to the trailer, but be sure to unlash them before launching.

But seriously, the hardest part is smoothly making the transition from being in the cockpit to being on the cabin top while keeping the mast moving in the right direction. I find that part of the trick is not walking the mast up too fast but equally important is not too slow either because that can allow the mast a chance to start going off to one side. Which incidentally is a good time to mention NEVER DO THIS AROUND POWER LINES - just sayin'.

[Markst95]

I've done it solo using the above mentioned methods but I think the jib halyard with a line attached to the sail end is the way to go, it lines up nicely with the bow stem fitting. I just walk it up while pulling in the slack on the halyard (helps if you have someone else do this). When the mast is up I tie it off and head forward to hook up the forestay.

[Rnoonan]

Thanks so much for the rigging guidance. You have certainly already saved me from great frustration and who knows what other negative consequences.

Glad to hear others are family sailing on this stout little boat. Only time will tell if this will work for us. I need to get my wife up to speed on the basics. Lashing my 4yo son to the mast Bill Murray, "what about Bob" style may be necessary. This season I expect to spend much of my time single-handed and getting myself 100% comfortable with the boat, then doing lessons for my wife. It may be next season before we fully launch into the venture as a family. But I'm prepared to be surprised...

-Rich

[mashenden]

[Oswego John]

Rnoonan,

Beautiful boat.

I'd like to add to the good advice that others gave you, When raising and lowering (stepping and unstepping) the mast on my Ty, I do something else to increase the safety factor and prevent losing the mast falling to one side or the other.

As soon as I have the mast butt in position in the tabernacle, I attach the rear shrouds rather loosely. Visually check that they arn't twisted and are kink free. The rear shrouds are pretty much in line with the mast. As the mast is elevated, the tautness of the rear shrouds remains about the same, down, half raised or erect.

With the rear shrouds loosely connected, the mast can't topple to either side. If raising the mast from the stern foreward, the rear stay should also be untwisted, checked to be kink free and attached first before raising it.

Good luck,
O J

[Skeep]

Rich et.al.,

I employed the one-person method that several of you in this thread talked. It worked fine. As long as you have the upper body strength, you're good. Line in the pocket another good piece of advice. I used a separate piece of line tied just above the spinnaker track ( 5' up ), ran that through a cleat on the bow plate, and back to Moi. Looking at those bugger turnbuckles and managing their position, I gently pushed the mast up and into its tabernacle or foot piece, then lashed the line from my pocket, now under a little tension, to the forward deck cleat. I quietly and calmly connected the forestay. "No problem..." as the Gecko says.

However Rich asked about the tension in the rigging lines last year and I am now at where he was last year. Perhaps some wise old salt can contribute to this additional question.

On my rig, the CD Manual and reality do not meet up. Therefore I am using the Hillbilly method of eyeballs to determine if the mast is straight up and not leaning side to side. Tension-wise, the lowers are tight, whereas the uppers are somewhat looser. This is not an exact science, but in the absence of facts and real professional riggers, it looks right to me.

I would like more information however. I'd hate to have something snap while underway. Last time that happened I was having a great time on Lake Ontario on a fast catamaran screaming across a bay and then, pow! Rescued by natives.

Anyone weigh-in on this question of rigging tension?

[Dick Villamil]

When stepping the mast on my Ty Weekender it is a 2-person task. I attach all shrouds and backstay then use the jib halyard (tied to the cleat on the mast - this gives a longer tail to use (I also attach another line to the sail shackle just in case). Then I place a cushion on the main hatch and a couple on the stern. One person in the cockpit guides the horizontal mast into the tang on the mast step. Once everything is in place I gradually lift the mast by pulling on the jib halyard. Once the mast is vertical I attach the forestay. Beware - the turnbuclkes must be free to pivot or you will bend the threaded portion between the turnbuckle and deck tang. As far as tensioning the rig - do not over tension - it might be wise to have a compression post inside the cabin to prevent deck sag. I wouldn't even think of doing it alone because one mistake and you will have a mast that conforms to the shape of the deck or whatever it falls onto! Entire process takes about 1/2 hr to 3/4 hour. Final tuning can be made while under sail in about 5-8 knots of wind. Keep the mast centered and straight (look up the mainsail track to keep it straight and use the main halyard to measure side to side centering). Also, I like the mast with a slight rake aft to assist in having a small bit of weather helm. She is a delightful boat to sail, just keep the boat balanced (fore and aft) and she will almost sail herself!
I generally step the mast with the boat in the water at the dock but is should work fine on the trailer as well.

[Skeep]

Dick, nice description. Do you find your lowers are somewhat tighter than your uppers?

Here is my vessel undergoing a sail fitting:

[mashenden]

Dick, nice description. Do you find your lowers are somewhat tighter than your uppers?

Here is my vessel undergoing a sail fitting:

She is lookin' good!!

My recent rigging of a Weekender actually resulted in tighter uppers, and looser lower shrouds. I noticed this because the upwind lower shroud would tighten up with a little bit of wind and all worked well. That said, I doubt that this is the way it is supposed to be - it just happened that way. I suspect they should all be about the same, but not so tight as to cause the cabin/fore deck to recess.

[Skeep]

Matt, causes me to wonder if there is a tension guage anyone is using to establish the base line?

I'm 180 degrees from being an engineer, but I suppose the lowers would naturally be more stiff whereas the uppers, with mast flex would certainly or normally then be looser.

[Steve Laume]

While I can understand the concerns with not making the rig too tight, it can also cause problems if it is too loose. The hull structure should not enter into consideration when tuning your rig. If proper rig tension creates a problem then that problem should be dealt with rather than run your rig too loose. A rig that is too loose will create a lot of flexing and stainless does not like repeated bending.

I got all sorts of advice about the tone of the wires when properly tensioned or trying to make them all the same. While I love music, I do not have a great ear for pitch. And just what pitch is proper for a particular wire size? I felt like I needed a measuring device to set the proper tension for the wire size I was working with. What I bought is a Loos Gauge.

http://search.defender.com/?expression= ... on%20gauge

What it did for me was to establish just what the tension should be. It comes with a guide for how tight to make things for each wire size. It still takes a lot of fussing to tune things right. Once all the wires are close you still need to sight your mast to be sure it is in straight. If tuning without a gauge you can have a perfectly straight mast but it might be that you have vastly different tension in opposing, forward and aft lowers. You might have everything equal and straight but under tensioned. If this is the case the mast will sway back and forth each time you tack. None of this is good.

For me the gauge was the only way I was going to feel comfortable with my rig tuning. Lots of people just let the boat yard set the mast and tighten up the turnbuckles a bit. This is usually no where close to proper tuning. I think a lot more boats suffer from rigs that are too loose rather than too tight. Without a gauge it is hard to tell.

If the cost seems prohibitive you might be able to get a couple of people to go together in buying one. It is not something you need to use all the time but you should check things a couple of times after the first launch and tuning. If the boat stays in the water it is good to check at least once a year. Compared to the cost of having the rig come down a gauge seemed very cheap, Steve.

[Dick Villamil]

Although there may be a lot of reason that people use the loos tension gauge, I have been sailing and racing for over 40 years and have never used a tension gauge. I get the rig set up by centering the mast then alternately snugging up the turnbuckles a turn on each side and repeating the side by side alternate tightening but not too tight. Then I go sailing in about 5-8 knots of wind. WHen close hauled on a stbd tack I take in a couple of turns to reduce the slack - then tack and repeat. All the while I am checking the mast to make sure that it is still in column (straight). WHen the leeward shrouds are slightly loose while the windward shrouds are supporting the mast without a fall off of the top of the mass or a belly in the mid section of the mast I know that the rig is properly tuned. This is a tried and true way to adjust shroud tension. Generally the lowers are tighter than the uppers because they are shorter however I like to get a slight amount of prebend in the rig to increase pointing ability (with the Ty she is already challenged as to pointing ability so I don't fuss too much with it). I made a removable compression post because there are so many reports about compression sag in the Ty and my old 1976 Ty was tired when I restored her. WHen I got the Ty I promised myself that she is just for pleasure - no racing allowed (but, the minute an ODay 23 comes out to sail - the adrenaline starts to flow and I am in racing mode and generally win!).