Replacing the potable water pumps in a CD25D

[Dick Kobayashi]

Among other deferred tasks, I am trying to replace the water pumps in 1) the galley sink and 2) the head. I have come to the conclusion that the galley sink is useless - as a sink. It is convenient for throwing a lot of stuff from the cockpit to "below" but not so far below that one cannot retrieve it with a long reach from the cockpit. I have abandoned the idea of a new pump for this "junk basket". So that brings me to the sink in the head, which for you non-25D owners is located where V berths would be typically. It could be a functional sink if I could get water to it. The original pump is shot and I have purchased a Whale Flipper for a hundred bucks (kinna high, I thought). The question is how to remove the old pump which has a nut under the pump (under the surface of the cabinet) which can only be be reached through the tiny opening provided when you remove the drawer over the "double" bed on the stbd side.

Needless to say the nut is frozen , hard to get at and unless you are Superman with X ray vision not visible from the location you need to be in to apply a wrench to the nut.

This is one more task that is simple, but in truth is not simple because...

I did note that the sink is through bolted and held to the counter with rusted bolts - if the sink could be removed easily (ha ha) accessing the bolt holding pump in place would be a snap. But...

The only thought I had was that an old fashioned basin wrench might do the trick but one is not at hand.

Advice?

[barfwinkle]

You know Dick I was reading your post and thought to my self "why doesn't he just open the door and look inside"? Then I remembered that the door that is under my sink in the head is not standard at all.

If you want to gain access to that area and at the same time acquire a very nice storage compartment, get a louvered door and trim piece, then cut a hole (about 12'x12" roughly) in the "bulkhead" directly under the sink in the head. I did this several years back and had completely forgot that it was an owner upgrade. And an upgrade that is well worth the effort.

Otherwise, it's back to working through the draw cutout or removing the sink?

Fair Winds

[barfwinkle]

Dick here's what I'm talkin 'bout. This mod is well worth the cost!!!!!!

Fair Winds

[Dick Barthel]

Bill,

That is a neat no brainer improvement. The only thing I don't like about that sink (like Dick's mine also has a nonfunctioning pump at this point) is I beleive it drains into the bilge. I never liked the sound of that.

Dick

[bhartley]

Both of our boats have the head sink drain into the bilge! I make everyone brush their teeth in the galley sink. I don't like cleaning toothpaste residue out of the sink at home let alone out of my bilge. I guess if I was cruising for a while I would deal with it, but for a night or two they can use the galley. The bilge normally stays pretty dry.

Spring is over here in Georgia. We're looking at 90 and high 80's all week (with NO wind). If only I had been organized enough in Georgia to have made use of our unseasonably warm and beautiful March. I'm not sure where April went.

Bly

[Sea Hunt Video]

On my 1982 Cape Dory 25D I have an electric water pump located on the starboard side of the engine compartment.

Do I have a separate electric water pump located forward near the sink in the head

I do not have an access door like Commodore Bill's. As I recall it the only access (if it is access at all) is via a very small drawer on the starboard cabin bulkhead separating the head from the main cabain.

I have honestly never really looked and the past 3 days we have had torrential rains, high winds, etc. so I have not had an opportunity to search myself since I started reading this thread. Not sure when I will next be able to go aboard S/V Bali Ha'i. Heavy rains and high winds are projected through Wednesday.

Any help, as always, is much appreciated.

[Jeff G]

Forget about trying to get an open ended wrench on that nut. Use a nut driver. The long stud will lead the driver on the nut. Then you can turn it. I will tell you before you start, the rusty studs will probably break off. I ended up drilling holes in the sink lip to fit new through bolts to reinstall.

[Dick Kobayashi]

I am going to spend the next several days contemplating the advice in this column. I think I can infer that "nut driver" is not a person who drives you nuts, but a tool. The louvered door looks really cool, but what do you store behind it? The drawer is there - limiting useable space. And as to brushing teeth, etc. I have never informed my guests that it was possible to use fresh water, they use salt water as I do and since the pump in the head is non functional there is never any water draining into the bilge. However, my bilge is pretty clean mostly becausee very time I check it visually I put in a shot of JOY or similar and it keeps dirt and oils in suspension pretty well. Also works well on human bodies with saltwater.

As to an alternative way of removing the pump. There is a triangular piece of plastic or similar that protrudes into the below sink area and the unreachable nut is attached to the stem of this as it protrudes down below. I was thinking that if I cut down the triangle so that it no longer served as a flange the remaining part of the stem could be pushed down into the void where I could reach it and make the adjustments needed.

Whadayathimk

[barfwinkle]

Dick I forgot to say that I removed the drawer and just put the drawer face back in place. I can store a case of water and some other odds and ends in there now and someone on this board has their house battery in that area under the sink. Also, that area is in the running for affixing the USCG number board Rhapsody just attained.

Sorry and the install (door) is simple!

Fair Winds

[Steve Laume]

The idea of having a space that large and also housing some mechanical fittings with no, or very poor, access is just wrong.

The hinged door is a very elegant and practical solution. At the very least I would cut out a decent sized opening and make up a simple panel to fill the hole. A small piece of 1/2" teak plywood with a rabbit and a round over could be screwed in place.

You could start with a small hole to get a feel for how big, and exactly where the opening should be located.

Break out the saw and make it easy on yourselves, Steve.

[Dick Kobayashi]

Here is the solution to removing the pump flange. I bought a cutting wheel attachment for my drill and cut away the plastic part of the flange that shows above the counter. Then the hose falls right through into the void below and you can access it through the drawer opening below. Set of three cutting wheels - $10. The new pump is in (which required cutting a 2" hole) and I am done with this project. BUT I am still thinking about that louvered door...