Rhapsody's New Traveler Part Duex

[barfwinkle]

Well Saturday was the first try with the new traveler and it was great. First thing was that now I can and more importantly, do use the traveler! It was blowin 20+ and I would adjust trim as needed and then just lower or raise the traveler according to wind speed! Such a deal!

Recomendation: Don't leave port without one (traveler)!

Today's forecast is for more of the same! Temperature about 80, winds due south @ 20 gusting to 25! I know what I'll be doin!

Fair winds.

[Dick Barthel]

Bill & the rest of the board,

I'm looking at a Garhaurer unit and the track is fairly thick (as in high). The rigger is recommending filling the old holes and installing the new unit right to the deck without the teak riser. I think the original unit had to have a riser to clear that teak piece running across the back of the cockpit. He's demontrated that it will function perfectly without the riser and says it will be a better install. It actually looks great too. You don't actually miss the teak piece and the cars don't stick way up which would be just something else to trip over when boarding from the stern. I want to give him the go ahead but thought I'd check with the board first. Is there something I'm missing?

Thanks,

Dick

[Steve Laume]

"Is there something I'm missing?"

Some difficult bright work to keep up.

The teak might help take up some of the torque load on the back deck but CD glass is very stout so I can't imagine it would be a problem. Sealing the core around all the holes and fender washers or backing plates should prevent any problems.

I bolted the track directly to the deck on my TY and it looked neat and worked well, Steve.

[barfwinkle]

The last time I replace a traveler, it was directly bolted to the deck. So shouldn't be a problem.

Having said that, I will restate that at the point of the holes passing through the aft deck (on Rhapsody) there was no coring. A friend surmised that the location where the fasteners passed through the deck was approaching a "junction" where the aft deck met with the aft cockpit "bulkhead". The aft deck is definitely cored, I checked, just not at that location. Make sure you get the drill holes sealed.

Dick the width of the car on the teak riser is an issue. Also, Riggingonly highly recommended filling and re-drilling which I did.

Fair Winds

[Dick Barthel]

Talk about a timely thread for me. I decided to have this done last fall and now it will be done right for the spring.

[barfwinkle]

What a beautiful way to end spring break. Too bad we're in the grips of a High Pressure system and NO NO wind. But beautiful just the same.

When I got home today, I had two new harken blocks waiting on me. I am going to change from a 3 to 1 to a 4 to 1 some time this week. I didn't like the effort required to move the car with the 3-1. But I DO LOVE sailing with a traveler. Works like a champ.

Fair winds

[barfwinkle]

Well I replaced the small single sheave Harken Carbo Blocks with the double sheave Harken Carbo Blocks before heading out for a sail yesterday. I really like these little double blocks and they can be allowed to spin freely on the swivel, or locked in place either on the horizontal or vertical plane. Sure makes for a neat setup. I am not too sure that I can notice any difference in the effort required to adjust the car (3:1 v 4:1) but I can always say I can

Fair Winds

[tjr818]

Bill,
Which Carbo blocks are you using?

[barfwinkle]

Harken PN 342 (Carbo Block)

Fair Winds

[barfwinkle]

Here are two pics of the Carbo Blocks. The swivel on the block (attached to the car) is locked and can't spin. This keeps it on the same axis as the line control end blocks.

Fair Winds