Marine head maintenance

Sea Hunt Video · Post by **Sea Hunt Video** » Mar 24th, '12, 22:27

This week one of my projects will be servicing, cleaning, etc. the marine head.

I recall a while ago a few on this board recommended a book on marine head maintenance authored by a female. The name of the book had sort of a catchy name which I do not remember.

I tried searching the board with "marine head maintenance book" and came up with nothing. I also searched Google (my bible

) and came up with nothing.

Anyone know the name of the book I am referring to

From what I recall from posts on this board the book mostly had practical ideas for keeping things "fresh" in that area of the boat, making the piping and parts work well, etc. For example, I think it said something about putting a tablespoon of olive oil (

) to coat the rubber parts of the plumbing. Sounds silly I know but that is what my feeble brain recalls.

Thanks in advance for any help with the name of the book.

Russell · Post by **Russell** » Mar 24th, '12, 23:00

Peggy Hall I know is often called the "head queen" or something like that, I assume its a book by her.

Sea Hunt Video · Post by **Sea Hunt Video** » Mar 24th, '12, 23:07

Russell, thanks. Exactly what I needed.

The book is titled "Get Rid of Boat Odors" by Peggie Hall.

http://www.amazon.com/Get-Rid-Boat-Odor ... 1892399156

Steve Laume · Post by **Steve Laume** » Mar 25th, '12, 09:18

Russell wrote:Peggy Hall I know is often called the "head queen" or something like that, I assume its a book by her.

Ms Hall is The Head Mistress, If you Googled, The Head Queen you might not find something you wish you hadn't.

I use a bit of extra virgin olive oil in the head whenever it seems like the pump is getting a bit stiff. White vinegar is also recommended to reduce calcium build up. I have also tossed in some commercial head and holding tank fresheners on occasion.

The worst odor problem I ever had on Raven occurred after replacing all the sanitary lines and installing a new head. The seal on the inspection plate on the top of the holding tank failed. It was never apparent until we overfilled the tank and more than odors began to ooze out under the flange from the depths of the tank.

After pumping and rinsing the tank I got a new inspection plate and bolted it in place with new sealant. On Raven the inspection plate is clear. This doesn't sound like a very good idea but it was also the original set up and if you hold a flash light to the inspection plate the ungelcoated strip on the tank shows the level very clearly.

Some times I miss the portapotty, Steve,

Joe Myerson · Post by **Joe Myerson** » Mar 25th, '12, 14:37

Robert,

You will probably find that the biggest source of head odor on the 25D comes from that loooong stretch of hose that runs the length of the locker under your port berth/settee. Several 25D owners have replaced that hose, at least one with PVC tubing.

Being lazy, I put two "Stickup" deodorant blocks in the locker every season. It's not as elegant, but it does work.

Enjoy your boat.

--Joe

Al Levesque · Post by **Al Levesque** » Mar 25th, '12, 19:24

If I recall correctly, the head mistress frowns upon using any oil in the head because it floats on the surface of the liquid contents and blocks the oxygen needed for bacteria to work its magic.

Sea Hunt Video · Post by **Sea Hunt Video** » Mar 25th, '12, 19:30

Al Levesque wrote:If I recall correctly, the head mistress frowns upon using any oil in the head because it floats on the surface of the liquid contents and blocks the oxygen needed for bacteria to work its magic.

Al:

That is why I am going to get her book. I need to learn what are the right and wrong ways to care for and maintain the head. As a Sicilian Italian it just did not (and does not) seem right to put good olive oil down the head.

Steve Laume · Post by **Steve Laume** » Mar 26th, '12, 09:41

Whats good for the microbes might not be good for the head pump.

Moderation, Steve.

barfwinkle · Post by **barfwinkle** » Mar 26th, '12, 15:04

IN an old "compuserve" forum Peggy was referred to as the "princess of poop". Thats how I remember.

Fair Winds

Sea Hunt Video · Post by **Sea Hunt Video** » Mar 26th, '12, 18:14

Joe Myerson wrote:Several 25D owners have replaced that hose, at least one with PVC tubing.

Tell me more Joe.

I had been thinking of replacing the current hose. It looks like it is the original plumbing hose. I had not thought of PVC but that might be a good choice assuming PVC does not absorb odors, etc.

For those CD 25D owners who installed PVC, what diameter tubing did you use

Joe Myerson · Post by **Joe Myerson** » Mar 26th, '12, 20:05

Robert,

When I did a search, all I got was a bad link to an earlier thread on replacing the hose with PVC. Perhaps our highly skilled webmasters could do better.

This is all I found--it does have information on what kind of hose to use:

http://www.capedory.org/board/viewtopic ... ace#p63231

Best of luck,

--Joe

Dick Kobayashi · Post by **Dick Kobayashi** » Mar 26th, '12, 20:18

Sea Hunt,

For about 8 years I had no problems with the head. Then I started to have odor problems, two actually.

The first was that what is essentially sewer gas leaking into the boat through the inspection plate threads on the inspection plate on the holding tank - leaking into the boat because the tank was pressurized. Why was it pressurized? Because the vent fitting at the end of the vent hose had become corroded inside so the tank was not actually vented, it was sealed. Problem solved with a little coat hanger wire and fiddling around with the vent fitting at the stern. I was proud to have solved this problem so simply.

However, the subsequent year I kept having holding tank odor of a minor but consistent nature while racking out on the port settee - under which the waste line runs. My guests had the same experience, unfortunately. Turns out that the 30 year old hose under the settee had become permeated with tank odor while the system was pressurized the previous year. Solution: replace the hose which I did, but I used the best hose I could find (http://marine.dometicgroup.com/en/holdi ... m_2789.php). The hose is stiff but flexible enough to make the bends needed. A heat gun is needed to gain enough flexibility to get the old hose off and the new one on - but all together is was less than an hour job.

I think this is a simpler way to make this adjustment than PVC.

So I have three items of advice

- annually check to be sure the tank is ACTUALLY vented

- replace hose from head to tank

- rebuild/replace head pump. In my case I dispensed with pump rebuilding because I am lazy, and the cost of a new pump was not that much more than a new head - so I simply bought a new head from Groco and bolted to the floor and connected the hoses. I wasn't having any problems with it - but know it was original and probably unserviced since 1984.

This is actually a system on the boat that an owner with minimum skill can perform. It is just important to address ALL elements of the system - once your boat has a new system, you will not need to touch it except for regular maint. The next upgrade will be the responsibility of the NO (Next Owner).

Dick Barthel · Post by **Dick Barthel** » Mar 26th, '12, 20:41

Thanks Sea Hunt....I skimmed the table of contents on Amazon and it certainly looks like a good read while on the head so I bought a copy for $9 bucks! I think some of the smell in the old loooong hose Joe mentioned is caused by the decaying organisms from pumping seawater. I stopped doing that a few ago and almost all of the odor on my boat is gone. But I still want to replace that original hose when I get around to it.

As for using PVC I think I heard something to the effect that the joints with the hoses might end up being a trap point. But I don't pretend to have any real knowledge.
Perhaps that expensive marine sanitation hose is the better way to go?

Dick

Joe Myerson · Post by **Joe Myerson** » Mar 26th, '12, 20:58

Like Dick K., I had to replace the pump. I've also had problems with the venting, which seems to be a great place for mud-dauber wasps to build nests when the boat is on the hard (oh, no such problem in Florida).

And, like Dick B., I try to flush with fresh water whenever possible. Makes a big difference.

I should replace that damn hose.

--Joe

Russell · Post by **Russell** » Mar 26th, '12, 21:07

Dick Kobayashi wrote: - rebuild/replace head pump. In my case I dispensed with pump rebuilding because I am lazy, and the cost of a new pump was not that much more than a new head - so I simply bought a new head from Groco and bolted to the floor and connected the hoses. I wasn't having any problems with it - but know it was original and probably unserviced since 1984.

I have often found that the cost of maintaining the head (rebuilds or new pumps or new seats, etc) is oddly expensive compared to buying a new head. I rebuild the head at least once per year, sometimes twice (I liveaboard so it gets a lot of use) and actually have opted to replace the entire head twice now. Anyone facing major maintenance or rebuilds on their original factory heads should really consider the replacement option, its cost effective and really nice to have a brand new one.

Replacing the hose is also very worthwhile, any CD that still has original sanitation hose still is likely overdue for hose replacement.

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