Technique for Buffing Hull

[gates_cliff]

This might not be new information but I thought I'd pass it on.

I talked to a guy who gave me a great suggestion for buffing the hull. If you use an electric buffer, attache some fairly strong shock cord to the buffer, long enough so that when stretched the buffer is at about the water line. This takes the strain of holding the buffer up, out of your arms. I tried it and it was like a revelation. I would tie the end of the shock cord to the lifeline and move it along as I made progress. I think a better solution would be to use some hooks on the end of the shock cord so you didn't have to untie and retie them every time you had move past a stancion.

Made buffing the hull almost fun!!!!!

[Dick Barthel]

Hang the buffer from the life line as you suggest and then place the buffer securely in someone else's arms!

Just kidding. Most of us who still have nice gel coats would never leave that job to someone else. I will implement your idea next month. I think taking the time to put up simple staging is also a great help.

Thanks,

Dick

[gates_cliff]

Dick,

I do like your idea about having another person do it. My problem is, ?????? nobody available.

Staging would be great, much easier than moving a step ladder.

[Steve Laume]

Even an 8 to 12 foot plank between a pair of step ladders will make any work on the hull much easier. You gain a great deal of leverage and mobility by working off of a plank.

I think you guys should investigate helium filled weather balloons. You could regulate the amount of gas until you reached neutral buoyancy. No need to keep moving the shock cord either.

I thought the whole idea of buffing was to get buff. That must be why I always seem to wait to haul until it gets really hot in July, Steve.

[drb9]

I found this previous discussion about buffing. Some topics are always timely!

I'm torn between a radial polisher and a dual action (random orbit?) polisher. The former is used by professionals, while the latter is targeted to amateurs. I can understand needing to be careful with a car's finish, but is the radial polisher really that risky to use on gelcoat?

Darin

[Neil Gordon]

Wax and buff by hand. You'll save a fortune by never, ever wanting to buy a bigger boat.

[jbenagh]

Wax and buff by hand. You'll save a fortune by never, ever wanting to buy a bigger boat.

[Paul D.]

I worked at a marina for a while and did this job more than I would have liked - on other people's boats with high freeboard too. The best set up by far was a pneumatic buffer - light, fast and not very loud. If you have a big enough compressor, it is the way to go.

[Bob Ohler]

I started using 3 ladders and two 2 x10's some years back. I call it my poor man's scaffolding. It sure beats moving the ladder every 3 foot section! If you have a helper, one can smear the polish while the other one runs the buffer.

[Bob Ohler]

Cliff, to add to my previous post...
I use an 8' ladder at one end, a 6' ladder at the other end, and a 4' ladder in the middle. This allows us to cover most of one side of the boat without moving ladders or "scaffolding."

BTW, 3M Polish and Wax (blue label) applied by hand and then buffed with a Makita buffer. It does the trick and come September, the water still beads!

I'll see you on the Bay!

Bob O.

[Dick Barthel]

One thing I discovered....I was using a cheap brand polisher and my friend let me try his more expensive model. The big advantage was the weight - much lighter! I think if you really want a shine you use a product as some one said you brush on and then work in in three foot squares with the polisher. I follow with a clean pad when done with 1/2 of one side. Do the polishing in the shade as much as possible. Most years if I have time I do a final application with a liquid polish like Maguire, buffing with a clean soft rag and follow with a final machine buff with a new pad . After almost 28 years the gelcoat still looks like new. This and bottom painting is one time of the year I really appreciate my 25D. Truthfully when I first got my boat I could buff the entire hull in one day. Now resting is equal parts with buffing! But I find boatyard chatter in the spring to be one of the joys of boating.

[gates_cliff]

Cliff, to add to my previous post...
I use an 8' ladder at one end, a 6' ladder at the other end, and a 4' ladder in the middle. This allows us to cover most of one side of the boat without moving ladders or "scaffolding."

BTW, 3M Polish and Wax (blue label) applied by hand and then buffed with a Makita buffer. It does the trick and come September, the water still beads!

I'll see you on the Bay!

Bob O.

Had the pleasure of actually talking, in person, to Bob yesterday. He works at West Marine in Deale and we had a discussion about batteries, his advice was invaluable. I was asking some questions about batteries, and he eventually asked what kind of boat I had and when I replied CD 27, he asked the name, and then he realized I was a poster (some might say "pester") on this board.

Thanks, Bob!

[Skeep]

Although this is a year from this thread, I'm in the process of rejuvenating my Ty using 3M products. With all the hype about products I've found 3M quietly continues to maintain its pole position with a quality reliable product. Hull oxydation is lifting away, and the hull is beginning to gleam again. Also using a large polisher got from Harbor Freight with 7 inch velcro pad with wool to execute the job. Good thing about the Ty is I do not need any ladder for this job!

[Maine Sail]

Tips For A Great Buff & Wax: http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/sh ... p?t=117266

[Skeep]

That is very complete, thank you so much!