Mainsheet System Question

[Steve Laume]

When looking for, rather standard, blocks I always check my local marine consignment shop first. I have usually been able to find whatever I have needed. In FLA where you have year round boating and frequent hurricanes I would think there would be a tremendous supply of used boat parts. Buying something that is brand new and shiny is always nice. Lets face it though, our boats are not brand new and the used parts look right at home. A boom vang set up should be easy to find. A line controlled traveler may be a bit harder.

I just stopped by our Mystic consignment shop in search of a small cam cleat last week. Not only did they have one for $8.00, I had sold $22.00 worth of old stuff so I just deducted the purchase from my balance. I also dropped off a few more things while I was there.

I was ever hopeful of finding a stanchion base to match the ones on Raven but there was no joy there.

I really enjoy poking around the consignment shop even if I am not looking for anything in particular, Steve.

[Oswego John]

.
I really enjoy poking around the consignment shop even if I am not looking for anything in particular, Steve.

Steve, I hear you. My late wife was like that. It wasn't like she didn't have enough of them, but everytime she would pass by an ear ring counter, even a garage sale, her brakes would squeal and she'd leave a set of smoking skid marks. Like a super magnet, she was drawn over to check out the ear ring display. :>)

O J lol

[mgphl52]

If you have (and use) a functional boom vang, travelling up or down is not really needed.
How are the Harken blocks different from Garhauer, other than price?

Is this really true? If it is my budgeting dilemma will be solved. I don't have enough boat dollars for both. So now I am thinking I will just go with a rigid Vang from Garhauer.

It has worked great for me on Brigitta (CD25), KAYLA (CD28) and Tranquil (AP36 Ketch).
I have bought quite a few items from Garhauer and never had a complaint. Last summer we got 4 genoa cars from them for Tranquil, 2 to adjust along the track and 2 that I use as turning blocks. This allows for easy adjustment of car position without having to reroute sheets through the lifeline stanchions.

[Sea Hunt Video]

Unless I miss my guess you should be able to accomplish what you want with:

One each Garhauer 30-01 and one each Garhauer 30-06

Sharkbait:

Not sure how you did it but these are exactly what I was looking for. Thanks I spent about 2 hrs on the Garhauer website trying to find them and failed.

[Sea Hunt Video]

I just looked at comparable pricing between Harken and Garheur. Something must be wrong.

Harken No. 1566 (fiddle block w becket and cam cleat) -$256

Garhauer No. 30-06 (fiddle block w becket and cam cleat) -$65

Harken No. 1559 (fiddle block) -$126

Garhauer No. 30-1 (fiddle block) -$40

All items are ss for all four pieces.

If you do the math the pricing difference is about $277

I MUST be doing something wrong.

[barfwinkle]

Where did you price the Harkens?

[Sea Hunt Video]

Where did you price the Harkens?

Excellent question. Wish I had a good answer. I am sure I got it from one of the on line websites (Mauri Pro, WM, Defender, etc.).

There is a small sailing shop in Miami (Sailing Services) that I have been using for other stuff. Several riggers use them. They sell Harken. I will see what their pricing is for the Harkens.

I was inspecting the mainsheet system yesterday. The current fiddle/cam cleat is a Schaefer (original equipment I think). The part that attaches to the traveler has a small spring. A friend suggests this spring may be intended to keep the Schaefer fiddle/cam cleat "up" and prevent it from falling down - like the ones on the Genoa sheet blocks. Makes sense but the fiddle/cam cleat is attached above and below to the mainsheet.

The fiddles/cam cleats, etc. that I have looked at do NOT have this spring. Is this spring necessary for the mainsail system

[barfwinkle]

SHV my Ronstan doesn't have a spring.

Have you been to Sailormans Consignment in Ft Lauderdale. That is a cool place and probably has used blocks for somewhat less$$$$$.

Fair winds

[mgphl52]

Robert,

You did nothing wrong... Garhauer is one of those companies that sells a great product at a fair price without all of the hoop-la, advertising, etc. of the other guys. To be fair they also have a very limited number of products compared to Harken, Schaefer, Ronstan et al, but if they do make what you need, they'll have the best price! Like many rare gems, you do have to search very thoroughly through their catalog pages but I always love spotting new things that "I must have" for Tranquil...

[bhartley]

Before you buy anything Robert, make sure you can install it on your current car or add a car (if you can find one) to the budget. Assuming it is factory original (you said it was), you are going to have to use bolt cutters to take the old block off (and then it is no turning back). The loop on the car is a funny size and may not accommodate the block you have selected. You may do better to buy a new mainsheet and sail with her as she is until you are ready to buy a whole new traveler. A little lube on the cam cleat may also make it easier to operate if that is an issue. The sheaves on our jib blocks had bad UV damage when we bought Pyxis. The sheaves were drilled out and replaced with a new sheaves, quality stainless bolt and nut. Blowing 30K on Thursday and she was a happy little girl (with a reef). No problem with the operation of the mainsheet using the original blocks. The *&%$!#$@ spring loaded traveler stops are far more of a problem than the factory setup for the block if you ask me. Eventually something will give and I will replace lock, stock and barrel.

Here's what mine looks like -- although it isn't the real thing just a piece I grabbed from the random boat parts bin. The base is up (sorry). This particular Shaefer piece was bolted down as opposed to riding on a track, but the construction is identical. The bale/loop on the base is welded and cannot be removed.



P.S. We leave the dodger up all spring, summer and fall here in Georgia. Singlehanding, I can tuck under the dodger and still reach the tiller (stretching my arm) if the sun is paralyzing (which it usually is). In the rain (which pops up constantly here), it is great to be able to just drop the hook and hang out below without having to close everything up. We get lots of squall lines on the lake.

As for going forward, it is actually easier for me since our dodger frame is very sturdy and I can grab the trailing edge to pull myself up and around. It is right at arm height (I am 5' 6"). If you are afraid the dodger will be in the way, the bimini will be a nightmare since you have to duck around it while negotiating the coamings and the skinny side deck. It comes off on the winter to save wear and tear.

[Sea Hunt Video]

Bly:

Thanks.

Yesteday I made very detailed notes of the block, traveler, etc. As you said, I will (would) have to cut the block off with a bolt cutter, or more likely, saw it off with a hack saw. The "loop" on the traveler car is very small.

Last night, while enjoying a Guinness , I started to think about just replacing the main sheet with a medium quality (i.e. less expensive) main sheet and continue to use the mainsheet hardware as is until I can replace the traveler, blocks, etc. all at once.

Great minds think alike

[bottomscraper]

I find the Garhauer web site a bit difficult if you don't already know what you are looking for. I would suggest you request a paper catalog,
it makes figuring out what you need much easier. I do like the Garhauer products. In general the blocks are a bit larger and heavy so they
probably won't appeal to the racing crowd, but a few extra pounds aren't going to make any difference on cruising boats.

Almost all of the blocks on Mahalo are now Garhauer. We do have a few Harken blocks where Garhauer didn't have anything that worked out
well.

[mgphl52]

I apologise for not remembering this sooner... several years ago when we decided to sell KAYLA (and keep Tranquil) I contacted Schaefer for a cost on getting the spring-loaded fiddle block (with cam cleat & becket) repaired. I emailed them pictures of the same connection ( similar to what bhartley posted) where there was very little metal left on the two U-brackets. They replied that the block was obsolete... BUT they also offered to build a replacement. What they sent was the newer model of the fiddle block and the car. The price was great and I replaced the jury-rig that we had been using for a long time before I sold KAYLA.

[Sea Hunt Video]

I am now leaning towards just replacing the mainsheet at this time. I will replace the fiddles, cam cleat, etc. when I replace the traveler, perhaps this Fall (after "H" season when I haul out for other jobs. It should work out better.

Any thoughts on New England Rope "Regatta Polyester Single Braid" for the mainsheet I would buy in either 7/16" (recommended in CD Manual) or 3/8". Length 66 ft.

[mgphl52]

The 3/8 will run the blocks easier and faster, very important when gybing. The strength of our newer lines easily matches/exceeds the requirements from the older dacron at smaller diameters. I personally prefer Samson lines over New England and order them from Defender.