CD 10' 6'' hull [copy] SCHOONER RIG PICTURES

[ray b]

I just found a bare F/G cape dory [copy] hull
NOW SCHOONER RIGGED WITH TEAK SEATS AND OTHER BITS
it has no C/B box or cut for the board
good white glossy gel-coat with a few flaws / chips near the rail
inside is raw [WILL BE PAINTED WHITE]

I have some bits from other boats that WILL be used on this hull

I am useing a cut/UP down flying jr mast and sail

or a trade for ?

we are in miami area
I doNOT think shipping would be reasonable
so best if you are close to pick it up

my ph # is 305 252 3710

[ray b]

too late now for a bare hull

she got rub rails and seats now

I think she will become a leeboard baldheaded schooner

[ray b]

the flying jr mast is 20ft
and the main is 15' 2''

so cut at 9ft for the foremast and 11ft on the mainmast
that gives 7 ' above the rail on the foremast and 9' above the rail for the main
and cutting the sail at 6' 7'' on the fore luff and on a diagonal up to about 8'' +on the leach
gives a gaftlike head of 5' [but no gaft just a batten/headboard
with a line on the top out side end going slightly upwards
and sheating the top of the mainmast
in addition to a normal jib like line from the clue at the foot
the foot clue as there is a bit of genny like over lap to
that only that line needs to be tended to tack
reaching or running the top line gets slacked a little
to allow the sail to twist to line up with the eased foot line
but pointing to windward the top line need not be touched

by raking the foremast a few degrees forwards and the main a few aft to allow 5 foot separation at the mast bottoms
but a bit more at the top as we need to fit in a 10'6'' hull

the top of the sail will then become the main and the foot recut to slope up to the aft end to match the foresail'
prevent dipping the boom and allow vision under and head clearance

I am unsure if a small jib on a bowsprit is worth the problems and hassles
but it sure looks good with one in my drawing


I jerryrigged a 16ft plywood daysailor/rowboat with a similar rig
and was amazed at the pointing ability speed and reduced heeling of the mini schooner rig
my rigger said small it works for small boats
but the tork from the upper sheet on the top of the main would not allow it to be scaled up too much

I would like to avoid cutting and building a glass C/B trunk or a wood one for that matter
so I am thinking lee boards but unsure how to do the bottom brace
the top can be a simple SS bolt and reinforced rail mount
but how to control the lower bit flexing with out added stuff on the lower hull ??

[ray b]

masts are up
sails ruff cut
pictures later

[ray b]

pictures of my CD hull schooner rig

SAILS NEED REAL GROMMETS AND SEWING HEAD BOARD ECT
THIS IS JUST TO SHOW PROGRESS




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MORE PIC'S WHEN TEAK SEATS ARE DONE

[ray b]

lucked into a bunch of teak planks 5'' to 7 1/2'' wide BY 1'' THICK
so the boat will get teak seats 3 and bulkheads to retain foam flotation under the seats
rudder, lee boards ect will be teak too

ALL THE WOOD, SAILS AND RIG, BLOCKS ECT HAVE BEEN RECYCLED FROM OTHER BOATS
SO NO NEW WOOD WAS USED

[ray b]

no comments ?

[Carl Thunberg]

I have to admit I've been following this with some interest, but I'm curious how the idea came to you to rig a CD10 with a schooner rig. I'm equally curious to hear how she sails when you get her in the water. If I had to guess, you could only carry full sail on very light air days. Anything approaching even 8-10 knots and you'd have to drop one of the sails. You obviously know what you're doing and you've clearly done your homework. The concept would never have occurred to me.

[ray b]

why ?
I had all the mast boom sail and stuff sitting with no hull to use
and the 16ft rowboat I schooner rigged years ago worked so well
pointed very well and was not tender at all and was FAST
I thought a newer mini schooner would be fun and different


remember heeling/ overpowering is directly related to lever arm length
lower rigs do better with way less lever arm force and weight aloft

I think she will sail with full sails up to about 20k of wind [the 16fter did]
sure that will require a bit of rail sitting/hiking
the foresail retains the reef points from it's prior life as a racing dink
and a reef point can /will be added to the main if needed
but this is a nice day toy not a gale sailing work boat
and I find over canvassed dinks more fun then slow ones