Typhoon motor mount question

svreleaseme · Post by **svreleaseme** » Dec 10th, '11, 12:33

Hello everyone,
I have searched the archives and so far have not been able to find a answer to my question. I have a new to me 1974 Ty that has not been in the water for some time. I am getting her ready to splash and in dealing with the straight type of motor mount the Honda 2hp long shaft barely makes it into the water. Maybe two or three inches over the prop by my measurements. I have read the post regarding prop coming out of the water when going forward to deal with the jib etc. but can this be enough water over the prop to actually get the prop to bite. As I'm sure you all know that if I drop the wood down I cannot tilt the engine far enough to keep it out of the water or to lock it in position. Thanks for your comments.

Randy

Gary M · Post by **Gary M** » Dec 10th, '11, 13:37

Hi Randy,

Are you talking about the original Typhoon motor mount?

If you are, are you sure you have a long shaft motor?

From your description the prop is not in the water far enough but if that is a long shaft it should be.

I had a Typhoon with a Johnson 4 HP long shaft and it fit well in the water and worked great.

Spartan does make a mount that will lower the engine some but it sure sounds to me that you may have a short shaft motor.

Gary

Oswego John · Post by **Oswego John** » Dec 10th, '11, 13:46

I'm thinking along the lines that Gary says. I have a 5HP Mercury long shaft on my Ty original motor mount. Plenty of depth. From what you say, maybe its not a long shaft.

Good luck,
O J

Markst95 · Post by **Markst95** » Dec 10th, '11, 16:42

Randy - I have the same setup on my 72, a straight bronze motor mount with a 2hp Honda. I've found the setup to work fine, even in rough seas. Remember the stern will squat some from your weight and the weight of the motor. My motor mount does have two inches of the top of the mounting board cut off (from a previous owner) which helps. Do remember that the motor and mount will lift when you spin it and go in reverse, I just put my hand on top to keep it from lifting.

svreleaseme · Post by **svreleaseme** » Dec 10th, '11, 18:23

Thanks to all for the replies.
I am known to do stupid things all the time but this time I did manage to have a long shaft motor, 22.5" from top of transom bracket to the plate above the prop. I did thing after your responses that something wasn't right, that I measured the water line inaccurately. So I tried that again and I still got about 19.5" give or take to the top of the bottom paint from the top of the transom. It is a little hard to determine a staight water line at the transom, But with the mount an inch above that I still get just a couple of inches of water above the plate above the prop. Now as Mark says , if the boat will squat a little when under power and give me 3 to 4 more inches. Maybe this will be just enough. I would thing that 6 inches is all I need in total. Also

Mark, can you still till your motor up into the locked position with the 2 inch cut out.
Thanks again everybody for your comments.

Sea Hunt Video · Post by **Sea Hunt Video** » Dec 10th, '11, 18:52

Randy:

Is there any possibility you can post a photo of your O/B motor bracket

I am probably the last person with the right to ask this since after several years on this board I still do not know how to do it.

Perhaps Santa will give me the gift of a college sophomore co-ed who will teach me

I ask about a photo because, unfortunately, there are some aftermarket brackets out there. Some work great, some OK and some, well. . . not so much. Spartan made the bracket that I had on my Ty Weekender and was originally installed by Cape Dory Yachts. It worked great, was rugged and easy to use. The only drawback was when going forward to work on the jib or pick up or cast off mooring lines, the water intake/impeller on the engine had a tendency to come out of the water. Other than that it was great. I had a long shaft 5 hp Suzuki.

It is possible your bracket was not intended for use on a Ty Weekender and was "adapted" to it. A photo would allow guys like OJ (the true recognized expert on all things "Ty") to tell you right away if it is an OK bracket.

Also, if available to you, perhaps you could talk with the prior owner to get additional information, etc.

Just a thought.

Markst95 · Post by **Markst95** » Dec 10th, '11, 21:12

svreleaseme wrote:Mark, can you still till your motor up into the locked position with the 2 inch cut out.
Thanks again everybody for your comments.

Yes motor tilts up fine. My bracket was made by Handy boat works.

svreleaseme · Post by **svreleaseme** » Dec 11th, '11, 07:55

Here is a link to the mount that I have.

http://www.handyboatservice.com/catalog.htm

As you can see if you click on brochure there was a model with a downward curve and lower mounting block but the other model and I believe present model is straight with the block just above transom height.
Thanks for the picture Mark. I will see how much I can cut out the block and still tilt the engine.

I know hundreds of Typhoons have a similar set up and all goes fine. It probably has something to do with me measuring the water line wrong and all will become clear when I splash.
Thanks again all for your help.

timkeys · Post by **timkeys** » Dec 11th, '11, 15:24

the long shaft honda 2hp is a 20 inch shaft. Its a wonderful little outboard. Has a neutral due to the cent clutch. Air cooled and 4 stroke. Its light and doesn't make the typhoon squat. I have a spartan motor mount. the honda 2hp is pricey... but Its worth it.

Oswego John · Post by **Oswego John** » Dec 11th, '11, 19:46

Its a nice motor mount bracket. Well, it should be when going at $375.00 a pop.

FWIW:

It is good to remember that with this type of bracket, your motor can be vulnerable to theft.

I knew a friend who had his motor stolen a few years ago. He did take precautions. He had a channel iron bar type lock over the turn clamp(s) that secure the motor to the bracket. What happened was that the thief simply tilted the motor back and upwards and then slipped both motor and bracket out of the tab unit that is mounted to the fantail.

In a previous thread on this subject, I read of some people who used a stainless steel cable bicycle lock to secure the bracket to the boat. What I did was to insert two dome head (no slot) galvanized, 3/8" carriage bolts with flat washers through the holes already in the bracket and fastened them under the deck with flat washers, hex nuts and hex jam nuts.

It is a long reach in under the aft deck. I couldn't reach in there so I recruited my grandson to do the job under my guidance. Just for insurance, I had him give the protruding bolt threads a whack or to with a hammer and cold chisel.

At the rate that prices are rising, pretty soon the cost of the bracket will be more than the motor that is hung on it. After over 40 years of age, I guess that my bracket might be considered a collector's item.

O J

timkeys · Post by **timkeys** » Dec 12th, '11, 01:24

I used a cable and lock to secure the motor mount to the boat. with my old kicker ,, a sacked out 2.5 hp ,, i left the out board easy to steal ,,and put my effort toward keeping the expensive mount. With the new honda I will secure them both. One nice thing about the honda 2hp is that its pretty easy to remove it and lock in the cabin along with the motor mount.

Oswego John · Post by **Oswego John** » Dec 12th, '11, 01:39

Hi Tim,

Yes, I agree. With a light weight motor, you can stow both the motor and the bracket together down below.

Best regards,
O J

The Cape Dory Board

Typhoon motor mount question

Typhoon motor mount question

Hmmmm, something doesn't sound right

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