The Blue Sea stuff is first class in every way.
I modified Raven's panel a bit to replace the meter with a battery monitor, a ground buss on the back and an always on breaker in the meter toggle space for my solar panel.
To accommodate the need for extra circuits, I installed an axillary panel in the teak panel below the main electrical panel. This is right next to my AC panel and in an area that is easy to access from the back without wasting much useful stowage space. I believe I used and eight breaker Blue Sea panel. This has allowed me to break up a couple of existing circuits and add a few more.
While it would have been nice to start over the axillary breaker is a fine and affordable solution.
My wiring is no where near as beautiful as some of the work that has been posted on this board but with some rerouting and loads of wire ties it is now workable, Steve.
CD28 Electric Panel Replacement
Moderator: Jim Walsh
- Steve Laume
- Posts: 4127
- Joined: Feb 13th, '05, 20:40
- Location: Raven1984 Cape Dory 30C Hull #309Noank, CT
- Contact:
sub panel
i recently replaced my stock cd28 panel with a blue sea 13 slot panel. i find i'm already out of slots. what i'd really like to do is relegate all mast/nav light functions, as well as courtesy, cockpit, and instrument lights to a switch panel in the cockpit. to me, it's very annoying to have to lean into the cabin, particularly if it's lit, at night, to turn on a nav light.
blue sea makes a nice contura switch you can combine into custom panels, with indicator lights. i'm thinking of using
either one of those or their weatherdeck switch panels, which
have backlit labels, but no indicators.
blue sea makes a nice contura switch you can combine into custom panels, with indicator lights. i'm thinking of using
either one of those or their weatherdeck switch panels, which
have backlit labels, but no indicators.