Reducing port size on cd25

Terry · Post by **Terry** » Oct 16th, '11, 19:22

Cassandra is a 1977 CD25 with four small ports and two large ports. The larger are about 30 inches. Later CD25s have six smaller ports.

I've thought recently that I prefer the looks of the newer, smaller ports in the main cabin. I'm considering redoing mine, and while doing the mains cabin's replacing the forward ports also. I'm favoring Spartan bronze with screens.

Comments are appreciated. Thanks in advance. Terry

sfreihofer · Post by **sfreihofer** » Oct 16th, '11, 20:30

Terry;

What you are proposing can be done, but it is a lot of fiberglass work to alter the existing port sizes, especially if you are going to smaller ports. Consider also that it will undoubtedly involve painting the cabin top (at least), inside and out, to cover the fiberglass work. Gel coat patchwork wouldn't be a viable option, in my opinion, because matching up color to the existing faded gel coat would be impossible.

Of course, all of this work would involve a substantial amount of time as well.

On top of that is the cost of the ports. I assume you've looked at the prices at Spartan? Ouch!

It's a big job. I don't think it would be worth it to me, but your mileage may vary.

Stan

Russell · Post by **Russell** » Oct 17th, '11, 08:34

I agree that it is probably not worth doing, have you checked out the price on the spartan bronze ports yet? You might reconsider after you do. Honestly, it would be less expensive to sell you current 25 and buy a newer one with the ports already in it and certainly much less work.

SurryMark · Post by **SurryMark** » Oct 17th, '11, 10:56

Indeed, it would be easier and probably cheaper to buy a newer boat, assuming you could sell yours for an OK price. I like the look of the smaller ports, plus they open and allow enough light. If I were doing it, I'd consider sandwiching the outside and inside with plywood, and making a meaningful-looking edge around it, or maybe a bevel would work if painted. Personally, I'm not one of those who feel that all Cape Dory work must be an absolute restoration to the original Alberg. On the other hand, the sandwiched-ply job could affect a future sale price, depending on how sweetly it is done.
Whenever I think of a big project on Tula, some of which I have already done, my sailor boys say I should look for another (probably bigger) boat.

Ben Coombs · Post by **Ben Coombs** » Oct 17th, '11, 11:22

I hear your complaints about the portlights. I have a 73 Cd25, and there are two large and one small on each side. The look isn't so bad, but they don't open... I am thinking about adding a hatch to the sea hood so that light and air can get in. Plus when the hatch was open, I'd be able to stand up to buckle my belt!

Now to figure out how to keep the sliding hatch out of the way...removable?

Terry · Post by **Terry** » Oct 17th, '11, 14:57

Thanks for your comments. I'll mull them all over before leaping.

Regards, Terry

Terry · Post by **Terry** » Oct 17th, '11, 14:59

Ben Coombs wrote:I hear your complaints about the portlights. I have a 73 Cd25, and there are two large and one small on each side. The look isn't so bad, but they don't open... I am thinking about adding a hatch to the sea hood so that light and air can get in. Plus when the hatch was open, I'd be able to stand up to buckle my belt!

Now to figure out how to keep the sliding hatch out of the way...removable?

Ben, is a hatch there possible? Terry

jepomer · Post by **jepomer** » Oct 17th, '11, 21:09

The three smaller ports are distributed differently than the two smaller and one larger version.

On my CD25, the middle (smaller) port is in the hanging locker/head area between the two bulkheads.

On the three smaller port style, the middle port is in the main cabin.

Ben Coombs · Post by **Ben Coombs** » Oct 18th, '11, 07:17

Hey Terry,
I think a hatch is possible. There is a slight curve to my sea hood, so it might take some sort of shim like system...like the reverse of blocking a new thru hull fitting.

This year a hatch there is not in the budget, but I do plan to refurbish my hood, and beef up the underside a bit so it can bear my weight without flexing. My hull is in great cosmetic shape, but the hood and slider are quite badly crazed.

Don Caseys "Good Old Boat" book is a great place for ideas.

Good luck.
Ben

Terry · Post by **Terry** » Oct 18th, '11, 15:10

jepomer wrote:The three smaller ports are distributed differently than the two smaller and one larger version.

On my CD25, the middle (smaller) port is in the hanging locker/head area between the two bulkheads.

On the three smaller port style, the middle port is in the main cabin.

Ah, yes, I wondered if that were the case. So if/when I upgrade, the head and closet will breath. AND I could put two small ports in the cabin. Oh, yes, Spartan would be very happy to see my order. LOL

Thanks for pointing that out.

Regards, Terry

Terry · Post by **Terry** » Oct 18th, '11, 16:59

Ben Coombs wrote:Hey Terry,
I think a hatch is possible. There is a slight curve to my sea hood, so it might take some sort of shim like system...like the reverse of blocking a new thru hull fitting.

This year a hatch there is not in the budget, but I do plan to refurbish my hood, and beef up the underside a bit so it can bear my weight without flexing. My hull is in great cosmetic shape, but the hood and slider are quite badly crazed.

Don Caseys "Good Old Boat" book is a great place for ideas.

Good luck.
Ben

I looked up some previous discussions on this topic, one of which you'd posted thinking about a sea hood hatch. As i was reading through them I pictured a pop-up arrangement like the old VW camper vans used. But if too big, it seem it would degrade the cabin structurally.

I've been quite please that Cassandra's deck, sea hood, and even the forward hatch are all very strong, and don't seem to flex at all. And I weigh 230 or so wet.

I like the Don Casey repair book that I have, and will look for the one "Good Old Boat."

Regards, terry

Ben Coombs · Post by **Ben Coombs** » Oct 19th, '11, 15:15

Hi Terry,
I did have a bee in my bonnet about a pop up solution. I even put pen to paper and figured out that I should either buy a Catalina for the pop top, or get a bigger boat. The logistics of making the pop up sea hood weather tight and vibration free were not worth the time or money. So I have been looking for a hatch type solution.... The big drawback is that when the slider is open, the hatch would be blocked. An easily removable slider would be perfect... And when I get it done I will post pics. But my "honey-do" list for the better part of the fall will probably not have any boat upgrades on it.

On your sea hood does the underside look to have any bracing that helps bear your weight? Mine is just some very thin fiberglass, which s probably why the top is so crazed-it flexes with any weight put on it.

Best, ben

Terry · Post by **Terry** » Oct 19th, '11, 19:16

It's raining Ben, which is a good thing here, as the lake's quite low. At any rate, when the rain stops I plan to go out to the marina to check things out. I had a scupper leak, which I did a temp. repair on that I need to check. I'll take a close look upward from the cabin.

At the boat things at the bottom of the Honey-Do List, then invert.

All the best, Terry

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Reducing port size on cd25

Reducing port size on cd25

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Possible hatch

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Re: Possible hatch

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